engine chugs on startup and runs like ****!
#1
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ok everytime i start my engine it runs like ****! atleast for the first 30 seconds until i hit the throtle to rev it up. first of all i have no check engine light or any cluster lights come on. i changed the plugs, wires, coilpack. when i took the plugs out they looked kinda blackish and were kinda moist. like it was getting too much fuel. if i rev it up for like 10 seconds or so or drive it rightawayit runs normal but i can tell there is a miss here and there. this car is a 98 4cyl 2.o sohc and the motor has 70k miles on it. what do you sugest i do to figure out what its deal is.
all the help in advance is greatly appreciated.
thanks, Micah
all the help in advance is greatly appreciated.
thanks, Micah
#3
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ORIGINAL: FastNeon84
replace the bulbs on your cluster....im sure the problem you have is is throwing off an engine code...
replace the bulbs on your cluster....im sure the problem you have is is throwing off an engine code...
#4
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Micah, I have '96 Stratus 2.0L that does the same thing (occaisionally). In my case, the car starts and runs like total crap for 5-10 minutes, and never a check engine light - so I understand your frustration! How can this not be detected by the computer? (No - my light's not burnt out either...)
I too have have replaced all the usual things (plugs & wires) and droveoff a tank treatedw/ fuel injector cleaner (the Chevron/Techron stuff is rumored to be good). When the problem occurs, it idles rough and I can feel a miss/bump while maintaining speed - usually not very noticable when excelerating. You may be interested in this other post too. https://dodgeforum.com/m_261946/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm
Does anyone know if the computer may store relevant codes which donot light the CEL? (I'm wondering if I should go get mine scanned somewhere just in case?) Anyhow, best of luck, and please keep us posted - you're not alone!
-Scott
I too have have replaced all the usual things (plugs & wires) and droveoff a tank treatedw/ fuel injector cleaner (the Chevron/Techron stuff is rumored to be good). When the problem occurs, it idles rough and I can feel a miss/bump while maintaining speed - usually not very noticable when excelerating. You may be interested in this other post too. https://dodgeforum.com/m_261946/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm
Does anyone know if the computer may store relevant codes which donot light the CEL? (I'm wondering if I should go get mine scanned somewhere just in case?) Anyhow, best of luck, and please keep us posted - you're not alone!
-Scott
#7
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Just went through this. Clean the IAC valve. (Idle Air Control). It is on the throttle body. Excess carbon causes it to stick. Remove the throttle body. There are two 8 mm bolts holding it on. Be very careful, if you try to just unbolt it you will break these bolts. They are full of locktite.
When removing these bolts place the throttle body on a solid surface. Take a box end wrench and put pressure on the bolt to loosen it. Don't even turn it but about a 1/16th or a turn, then tighten it back up. Keep doing this back and for motion and it will come out. Be very patient.
Once you have the bolts out clean everything with carb/throttle plate cleaner. Make sure to clean the port in the throttle body also. You will see how the IAC seats in this port. Clean out all the carbon. Clean the IAC plunger completely.
Put everything back together just the way it came apart. You should see a dramatic difference, wnd the elimination of the problem you are discribing.
When removing these bolts place the throttle body on a solid surface. Take a box end wrench and put pressure on the bolt to loosen it. Don't even turn it but about a 1/16th or a turn, then tighten it back up. Keep doing this back and for motion and it will come out. Be very patient.
Once you have the bolts out clean everything with carb/throttle plate cleaner. Make sure to clean the port in the throttle body also. You will see how the IAC seats in this port. Clean out all the carbon. Clean the IAC plunger completely.
Put everything back together just the way it came apart. You should see a dramatic difference, wnd the elimination of the problem you are discribing.
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#8
#9
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Known problems for a code 43 that I have seen or heard are:
*spark plugs - Champion Copper spark plugs RC9YC
*wires
*coil pack
*bad intake manifold gasket
*bad fuel injector
*clogged fuel rail
*fuel filter
*fuel pump
*bad rings
*cracked filler neck (let water leak into the gas tank)
*TPS
*IAC
*water in fuel
*spark plugs - Champion Copper spark plugs RC9YC
*wires
*coil pack
*bad intake manifold gasket
*bad fuel injector
*clogged fuel rail
*fuel filter
*fuel pump
*bad rings
*cracked filler neck (let water leak into the gas tank)
*TPS
*IAC
*water in fuel
#10
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ORIGINAL: das2123
Known problems for a code 43 that I have seen or heard are:
DONE*spark plugs - Champion Copper spark plugs RC9YC
DONE*wires
DONE*coil pack
GOOD CONDITION*bad intake manifold gasket
*bad fuel injector
*clogged fuel rail
NEW*fuel filter
WORKS*fuel pump
GOOD COMPRESSION*bad rings
NOT CRACKED*cracked filler neck (let water leak into the gas tank)
WORKS FINE*TPS
*IAC
4 TANKS OF GAS SINCE I GOT IT AND IT HAS DONE THIS*water in fuel
Known problems for a code 43 that I have seen or heard are:
DONE*spark plugs - Champion Copper spark plugs RC9YC
DONE*wires
DONE*coil pack
GOOD CONDITION*bad intake manifold gasket
*bad fuel injector
*clogged fuel rail
NEW*fuel filter
WORKS*fuel pump
GOOD COMPRESSION*bad rings
NOT CRACKED*cracked filler neck (let water leak into the gas tank)
WORKS FINE*TPS
*IAC
4 TANKS OF GAS SINCE I GOT IT AND IT HAS DONE THIS*water in fuel
but i dont see how it can be the injectors or the rail if it works fine after like 30 seconds or so. i mean like if i get in the car start it, it chugs bad and miss fired like its runing on two cylendars. then if i give it gas it revs up and still miss's andthen i can put it in drive and drive away andwithin 100 feet it runs fine, so it seems.
i bet it is that iac. like i said i will try it later and post what i notice or find.