the negative terminal of the coil is usually fairly important. the coil does not usually spark until power is take away from it and the negative side is the side that power is usually take away from when the distributor pulses the ecu.

i'm not getting spark from the ignition coil. i'm going to swap out the ignition coil tomorrow since the test indicates bad ignition coil.

i'm tempted to take it to a mechanic to do a diagnostic. i'm not making sense of most of the tests i need to perform. i'd need pictures, especially when it wants me to test the connectors to the spark control computer since they're not numbered on the connector. i couldn't even make sense of the test for the carb switch.

i took off the distributor cap. it could be the distributor or pick up coil since the plate and reluctor have rust on it. i didn't get around to testing the distributor, engine temp sensor, coolant sensor, det sensor, egr system, and electronic throttle control system.

i tried a different method today. i put a spare spark plug at the end of the wire that goings into the distributor from the ignition coil and tried turning it over before i let it run for the day. it shocked the crap out of me and sparks were jumping across the ignition coil terminals. i used a spare spark plug wire and made sure i have everything secure. turning it over shocked me too and i did manage to get a spark from the spark plug. i was going to try the other test of running a wire and light bulb meter from the positive terminal of the battery to the ignition coil wire that goes into the distributor but decided against it after already having my electroshock therapy for the day. i'm wondering if it is getting too many amps and that the resistor ballast isn't doing it's job.

i'm debating whether trying a new ignition coil knowing that i'm likely just wasting my money, taking it to a mechanic for a diagnostic where i might get the wrong diagnosis (like a bad ignition coil when something else is causing the ignition coil to go bad), or selling it for $600-800 to find another truck for about $1K where there would be a new set of risks. i'm just nervous i have something major wrong with the truck such as needing a new distributor, which i'm not confident in my abilities to replace, a bad cylinder, a leak in the exhaust manifold, a short that will be difficult to find, and/or bad computer. at the same time, i'd kick myself if it was a matter of splicing a wire or putting in a $20 part.

someone had a nice 1987 dodge dakota listed on craig's list that he decided to not sell. there is another 1987 dodge dakota listed that has a bit of rust but otherwise looks like the body is in good shape. i haven't reached him yet. there was a really nice 1972 f150 listed that had a lot of modifications to update it but it was out of my price range.

before all these problems, i did get good use out of the truck for 4 years with a minimum amount of repair needed. i even made several trips in it with a 1/2 cu yd of dirt.

i am pretty sure since your truck has the lean burn system you will not find a ballast resister under the hood. it was only used on the 4 or 5 pin ignition system.

Would be nice if ( henrygorge ) would let us know if he got this problem fixed or not, same problem I am having .

if you need help you should really start your own thread with a more info like year and model of your truck and exactly what your problem is.