Seafoam
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Seafoam
I know this has probably been discussed hundrds of times before but i got to know. Will seafoam do more harm then good?I want to try it out because my truck has almost 215,000 miles and no rebuild so i know it's filled to gills with carbon build up. And if I did do it what wouldeb the best place to insert it into the motor.I was thinking the brake booster vaccum line cause it seemslike a good place. And if I do this will I have to change my oil or anything afterwads. Several have told m that it cumms your intake and injectors up and ruins the oil, in ohter words destroys the engine. And since i a tight on money and this is my onlway o school and back i can't risk having i broke down a long time. So what do you guys think, should I or not, any experience would be helpful.
P.S- the only reason i ask is my Auto Tech Instructor says it's good stuff, but the local mechanc says it ain't worth a crap. Who should i listen to?
P.S- the only reason i ask is my Auto Tech Instructor says it's good stuff, but the local mechanc says it ain't worth a crap. Who should i listen to?
All Star
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Odessa Tx.
RE: Seafoam
Never was impressed with Seafoam. Try some BG top engine cleaner. I was anA.S.E. certified tech for many years, and have had good results with it. Just follow the directions on the can. They also make fuel system cleaner you add to your gas to get what the T.E.C. doesn't get. Run some for 5-6 tankfulls. A set of posi-loc valve stem seals goes a long ways toward keeping the intake valves clean, as the seals harden over time and should be replaced if you have any noticable oil use. Theseals,gskts/odds and endsrun about 50 bucks. However, new seals won't last forever on worn guides. And yes you should change oil afterwards, and no, BG won't cumm up your intake.If it's really nasty, it may take multiple doses.
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RE: Seafoam
Well see i use about 1/2 quart every 3 months oil wise. Which isn't realy alot, but also isn't good. I am really getting wierd readings on the oil too. When i pulled the plugs a couple days ago (to compare to the old crappy bosch plugs, go champions now) only one plug showed any kind of oil on it. The rear most passenger side plug, all the others nothing running great. I had my dad drive the truck while i followed him, through the rev range and gunning from a stop, no blue smoke to be seen. The only time this truck has smoked is when i got it back form getting the tranny put in (mechnic left the 02 sensor unplugged).What does B.G and T.E.C stand for, i would like to use it instead. Thanks for all info.
All Star
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From: Odessa Tx.
RE: Seafoam
First off, what kinda motor are we talking about? Second, what makes you suspect a carbon problem? Any "gas rattles"? If so, there areseveral other possible causes. 1/2 quart in 3 mos. is no kind of a problem AT ALL. If there's no major puff of smoke at startup, or smoke after idling a while, the seals/guides are fine. BG is the brand, ask your mechanic where to find it. T-op E-ngine C-leaner. 215,000 miles shoudn't cause you any problems if this is a well maintained,fuel injected engine. I have a fuel injected '85 Daytona with over 350,000 on the untouched short block.Fuel inj. just runs cleaner and is easier on the rings.Anyhow, if it runs fine I'd just drive the wheels off of it.
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1992 5.2L Magunm V8. Well i don't have any money at all right now (between jobs) so i wanted to buy what would fix my problem and not go on a parts chase like i did a while back. When driving at cruise speed (around 35 in town) and you stomp on it, for about a second or so after full throttle mash down it does nothing then suddenly takes off like it should. But it doesn't do this on the highway at around 55 just kicksdown and goes.I had thetranny rebuilt so it can't be slipping. So farI've had theO2, fuel pump, plugs and wires,and fuel pressure regualtor replaced(forother reasons) so it shouldn't be any of those things.
Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 550
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From: Colorado
RE: reply
I've used the SeaFoam for years and it works well. You can also use Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. Here's some links and info.
www.seafoamsales.com
www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00151.html
From neons .org
www.seafoamsales.com
www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00151.html
From neons .org
From : Greg at Chrysler
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner/Conditioner is really good for removing carbon deposits, but the directions on the can are not so useful. The following directions outline the way that professional mechanics have been using the cleaner for years -- they were finally published in TSB 18-31-97 for 1996-98 Jeep 4.0 Liter misfire conditions:
decarbonizing Procedure
1. Operate the vehicle until the vehicle reaches operating temperature.
2. Remove the air tube from the throttle body.
3. With the engine at an idle, spray the entire contents of Mopar Combustion Cleaner, p/n 04318001, directly into the throttle body. Allow the vehicle to load up with the cleaner to the point of almost stalling out.
4. Shut the engine OFF after the entire can is ingested.
5. With the hood closed and the vehicle parked inside the garage, allow the vehicle to soak for two to three hours. This will ensure that the engine will maintain its temperature and will allow proper solvent penetration.
6. Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).
Greg Smith
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner/Conditioner is really good for removing carbon deposits, but the directions on the can are not so useful. The following directions outline the way that professional mechanics have been using the cleaner for years -- they were finally published in TSB 18-31-97 for 1996-98 Jeep 4.0 Liter misfire conditions:
decarbonizing Procedure
1. Operate the vehicle until the vehicle reaches operating temperature.
2. Remove the air tube from the throttle body.
3. With the engine at an idle, spray the entire contents of Mopar Combustion Cleaner, p/n 04318001, directly into the throttle body. Allow the vehicle to load up with the cleaner to the point of almost stalling out.
4. Shut the engine OFF after the entire can is ingested.
5. With the hood closed and the vehicle parked inside the garage, allow the vehicle to soak for two to three hours. This will ensure that the engine will maintain its temperature and will allow proper solvent penetration.
6. Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).
Greg Smith
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RE: reply
What air hose are they talking about removing from the throttle body. And do you spray it straight down on the throttle plates, with them at idle speed. And also do you let it load up till it acts like it will die then stop spraying, wait till it returns to normal and then continue spraying or let it die then continue after restart. The instructions sounds like you shouldn't let it completely stall.
Should you do the highway thing on all vehicles or is it just for one vehicle. How much is this suff a can approximately?
Should you do the highway thing on all vehicles or is it just for one vehicle. How much is this suff a can approximately?
