Picked this up as a sled hauler/ winter truck. Gotta get it into shape now, first of all heres a pic of the ol' beast.

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Wont win any beauty pageants but I'm getting it cleaned up. Not too bad for an old forestry truck picked up for $550.

Only issues I've found so far that need to be addressed ASAP are the speedometer doesnt work (Is that an electric sender on the tailshaft?), and the drivers front wheel bearings are a bit loose (tapered roller bearings? can they be tightened up for the time being?)

I've checked codes and its giving me 12, 33, 32, 55. I dont know whats up with the 33 the truck has no A/C. as for the EGR I can see whay thats not working right.

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And this is on the passenger side fender
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Any idea why it might have been unhooked? common problems with the EGR at all? it runs good and revs pretty snappy but does smell like its running rich. I took it for a cruise around the block and found that when I was giving it gas then stomped on the brakes hard it stalled (not quite warmed up)

Another thing is the guy removed the front driveshaft as he said it would turn while driving and the 4X4 hoses are disconnected, not sure what would cause that, it shouldnt move at all when in 2H right?

On the 4wd switch at the axle the left (drivers side) hose is plugged with a screw while the right side of the pod has a hose running up the fender well, across the engine and ends a couple inches short of the EGR valve on the passenger side. There is also a vacuum plug hanging wrapped around the tranny cooler lines that looks like it should be plugged onto the vac pod on the axle, is that right? here is the vac plug:

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I Removed the box liner and rails last night. Have a more snowmobile friendly plastic liner and a steel headache rack and rails to go on, more picks of the truck in my Photobucket album here if anyones interested.


Thanks
Scott

 

Well I checked the vac lines for the 4WD in the last pic and theres no signal there, I'm guessing that the line on the passenger fender needs to connect to a vacuum source somewhere.

The plastic box liner from my old ford wont fit, wheel wells are too high in the dodge. Maybe I'll just cut the bottom out and just use that.


Scott

 

Ever feel like your talking to yourself ??

So I found the Vac source for the 4wd on the passenger side of the engine (1" of hose and a screw) plugged a length of hose on it and ran it down to the axle and with the truck running probed both ports on the CAD switch with the drivers tire jacked up and that engages and disengages just fine.

I then hooked the same vac line to the plugged hose on the pass fenderwell and I get no signal at the cad hoses at all in any gear position which leads me to believe that the switch on the transfer case is faulty or has a line unplugged, but I cant seem to find it to check, I can follow the bundle of hoses so far then I loose track on top of the transfer case.

The transfer case goes into all positions and functions as it should so what I'm wondering now is could I just put a vac switch in the cab, run a hose from the vac source and CAD to it and use that to engage & disengage the 4wd?

I think that I will have to come to a complete stop before shifting in to 4wd (because the switch on the TC is supposed to synchronize the driveshaft to the front diff before engaging the CAD right?) or would it be fine shifting between 4H and 2H so long as I shift the TC before engaging the CAD?

I would have tried it already but as I went to install the front drive shaft I found one of the u-joints in the double cardan is shot so that'll have to wait till the weekend.

I also hooked up all the EGR hoses and it seems to have smoothed out the idle but that may very well be a placebo effect though. It still runs great and has lots of snap to it so I'll just leave it hooked up.

Anyone have any tips on what to look for or test to get the speedometer working? I can carry my GPS for the time being but I'd still like to get it working as soon as I can.

Anyone? anyone at all?


Thanks
Scott

 

Feel that way alot. No I don't. Shut up dammit I do too now quit buttin' in........... Considered a cable conversion kit and doing away with the CAD entirely?
12,33,55 are nothing. On the speedo check the signal generator at the trans with a multi-meter and see what you've got. It generates a square wave form signal when spinning, the computer calculates time/distance off this signal. Since there's no code 15 it's possible the speedo itself is screwed,or wiring but gotta start someplace. What was wrong with cables? Grease 'em every few years worked forever.
Looks like a good buy on the truck BTW.

 

Who needs a speedo? If you just keep the pedal down you`ll know how fast you`re going. But did you check all the fuses? That`s usually where I start.

 

Yeah fuses are all good, even took the time to remove and install them all just in case there was a bad connection.

What setting would I use to check the speed sensor, ohm's?

I'm sure the officer would be happy to inform me of my exact speed!

I've read about the cable conversion and I'd like to do it but theres other things like winter tires that I need more right now. Besides I dont mind working with vacuum lins, my t-birds have miles of it so I've gotten used to it.


Thanks for the replies, at least now I know that other people can in fact see this thread!

Scott

 

Been a little busy working two jobs,haven't been home much. Been a long time but as best I remember it generates 0-0.5 volt. On/off type signal basically,computer reads time between 0 and .05 volt. Been over 10 yrs since I checked one so don't hold me to it. The thing is still driven off the tailshaft so you might check the plastic drive gear. If the generator is/has locked up it may be stripped.

 

Two jobs? I don`t even have one yet. If I don`t find one soon, I may have to start selling crack or something. All these storms ain`t helping.

 

Well the speedo started working tonight, went for a drive and while I was turning around I noticed it was working, worked all the way home then the truck wouldnt shut off, tried the ignition several times and the accessories would turn off but the engine kept puttering like all was fine, gave it a rev and it shut down, fired back up and turned off fine after that.

Looks like I'm spending tomorrow going through every electrical connector with a tube of die-electric grease and contact cleaner, just what I wanted to spend my friday evening doing...

I suppose not turning off is better than not starting right? (though I fear that may be next)


Scott

 

ASD relay or ASD control circuits maybe? Most everything goes through the computer. Makes me glad I live in the road salt free boonies.
And '96, you can can find 25 jobs here before lunch. I would have thought the Houston area oilpatch would be booming too. A man I used to work for begged until I started working nights. He's *** deep in alligators. After Ike ya'll will be too.