D150 2wd 225 slant 6 to 383BB swap HELP!!!
noobie here have a 1980 D150 w/225 and want to swap in a 383 BB can i use the same trans if i get a different bell housing? it has a 3speed w/overdrive
thanks guys
thanks guys
if you have a auto truck than you will need a big block 727 torquflite or if its manual than you than you should have the A-833 or NP435 than you just need a big block bell houseing. and if you need motor mounts get a copy of mopar magazine, they sell the complete mount kit. and you will have to do a little rewiring. its not to bad of a job its just costs a little
The OD 833 is of questionable strength, but if you are in a bind and need to use it until you can upgrade, turn the bearing retainer down to mate with the BB bell housing.
I did the same swap using a 440/non OD 833, used factory BB mounts by drilling holes in the crossmember in the appropriate spot. And some reworking of the clutch linkage is also needed,as the frame bracket/bellhousing pivot points don't line up. At least with the bell housing I had anyway. Cast iron, 11 1/2" clutch. {Broke the bellhousing at the track, running a 727/3200 stall for now} B-body pistol grip shifters will fit too BTW for some added coolness.
Depending on which valve covers you use, the left might clear the brake booster OK on a B motor. An RB requires a BB booster, and some valve covers still won't clear, and still requires pulling the booster to get the cover off. Chunk the 3/8" swaged nuts on the booster for regular nuts and lock washers, saves cussing.
1 7/8" headers/440 are a pain,had to notch the top flange of the frame rail on each side a 1/2" or so for the two center tubes, and notched/boxed the crossmember also on the left side. Using Hooker Competition Plus, another brand may fit better. At any rate use a late model mini starter. Changing the big starter on mine was a full day's job,practically had to pull the engine. The mini slides out with a few Rubik's Cube twists after pulling the clutch linkage.
For ease of wiring, I went with an MSD6AL box, and a GM alt. Seemed the simplest way to me.
I did the same swap using a 440/non OD 833, used factory BB mounts by drilling holes in the crossmember in the appropriate spot. And some reworking of the clutch linkage is also needed,as the frame bracket/bellhousing pivot points don't line up. At least with the bell housing I had anyway. Cast iron, 11 1/2" clutch. {Broke the bellhousing at the track, running a 727/3200 stall for now} B-body pistol grip shifters will fit too BTW for some added coolness.
Depending on which valve covers you use, the left might clear the brake booster OK on a B motor. An RB requires a BB booster, and some valve covers still won't clear, and still requires pulling the booster to get the cover off. Chunk the 3/8" swaged nuts on the booster for regular nuts and lock washers, saves cussing.
1 7/8" headers/440 are a pain,had to notch the top flange of the frame rail on each side a 1/2" or so for the two center tubes, and notched/boxed the crossmember also on the left side. Using Hooker Competition Plus, another brand may fit better. At any rate use a late model mini starter. Changing the big starter on mine was a full day's job,practically had to pull the engine. The mini slides out with a few Rubik's Cube twists after pulling the clutch linkage.
For ease of wiring, I went with an MSD6AL box, and a GM alt. Seemed the simplest way to me.
Last edited by lugnuts; Jan 31, 2009 at 12:10 PM.
www.bouchillonperformance.com/ should have everything you need.
Last edited by charlie1935; Jan 31, 2009 at 10:03 AM. Reason: left word out.



