I know dodge put the 400 in 1975 dodge w100's from the factory, did they not attach them to 4 speed trannies? Or is the problem that they didn't finish the pilot bearing hole?

 

It sounds about to be the same situation as the chevy 400. all came out as autos.

 

Was a few made,but they are few and far between. Was a few Chargers etc. too with a 400 4spd. I drove my Challenger anyway, probably turned it 6200 or so after a few beers and it never came apart, but @ 3000/70 mph the shifter handle would buzz pretty bad. Sure it didn't do the main brgs any favors either.

The 383 that the 400 replaced ran smooth as glass with the same clutch/flywheel. Ran the 400 at first with a 727 until the starter ring came off the torque converter,wadded up and broke the bellhousing,was smooth with the automatic.

Let me ask around and see what I can find.

 

Thank you. All help is appreciated! I don't want it to vibrate like hell. I want to do it right, but I want to keep the 4 speed.

 

Gettin' senile. Guy on another site jolted my feeble brain. Try Brewer's Performance, or Passon's. Dedicated 4 spd shops.

 

swap the 400 for a 440, car guys like to make stroker motors out of 400s........

 

I put the 400 in the truck and mounted it to the 4 spd tranny and transfer case. The problem that I have is that the driveline seems to be shorter now with the 400 than with the 318. I had the motor mounted on the motor mounts, and the transfer case was too far forward to bolt in its original place.

So, I took the motor off the mounts and shoved the whole driveline(motor, tranny, and transfer case) towards the rear of thr truck, and bolted the transfer case where its supossed to go. Now the motor is really close to the firewall and the mounts won't fit on the studs.

Does anybody know why it seems shorter now, or suggest any solutions?
Any help is appreciated...I'm really not sure what to do.

 

How far off is it? And how did you come out with the manual trans/400 deal? Any headaches?

 

It came out alright. Other than the motor mount deal. Do I need to replace the rubber mounts on the bottom end? I drilled the crank and cut a half inch off the input shaft....**** worked.

Just need to know do I need big block rubber mounts? m It has the rubber mounts in it still.

 

To best of my knowledge the biscuits are the same big block/small block. The right head will clear the firewall about a 1/2". I guess the brackets themselves are bolted to the right side of the ears on the block. If all else fails torch some holes where you need 'em and bolt her down.