Not getting any fire to the dist.....HELP
#1
Not getting any fire to the dist.....HELP
Ok here is the deal I was driving home and about 100 feet from the house my truck bogges down, so I let up on it then gave it gas and it did it again. Then it died and has not started sence. I put new wires, plugs, cap and rotor, and a new dist pickup and still no fire. What am I over looking? Any help will be helpful.. Thanks
#2
Do you have power to the coil? If you have a dual dist pickup there should be a start/run relay to check (resistance between terminals 4 & 5 should be 20 to 30 ohms). You should have a single ballast resistor that may be bad, it should read 1.1 to 1.8 ohms. Electronic lean burn II (SCC spark control computer) was used on most of your year trucks and that will have to be a suspect.
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#10
The first thing you need to establish (visually) is what ignition system you have. Because, there are three possibilities.
A) You could have LEAN BURN (disaster)
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/lean-burn.html
B) The split system:
""For vehicles built from 1984 through 1987, the ECU is actually divided into two parts. This was done to isolate the electrical noise and interference generated by the power module from the passenger compartment. The Logic Module is located inside the passenger compartment, usually behind the front passenger-side kick panel which is below the dashboard and glove compartment. The Power Module is located in the engine compartment in the left, front fender next to the battery. The intake to the air box is connected to the power module so that the engine pulls cool air through it from behind the front bumper. This keeps the module cool (it has several transistor drivers and regulators) and also supplies cool air to the engine intake. It is important not to change this since the power module could potentially overheat when the car is running, but not moving.""
These look like the later SMEC controllers used in '88/89 and is in the LHS fender.
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/ecu/index.html
C) Or you could have the preferred one which is the 4 pin ECU (with ballast resistor) and is the one you should switch to (if you want it to run properly) if you have the other BS.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html
A) You could have LEAN BURN (disaster)
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/lean-burn.html
B) The split system:
""For vehicles built from 1984 through 1987, the ECU is actually divided into two parts. This was done to isolate the electrical noise and interference generated by the power module from the passenger compartment. The Logic Module is located inside the passenger compartment, usually behind the front passenger-side kick panel which is below the dashboard and glove compartment. The Power Module is located in the engine compartment in the left, front fender next to the battery. The intake to the air box is connected to the power module so that the engine pulls cool air through it from behind the front bumper. This keeps the module cool (it has several transistor drivers and regulators) and also supplies cool air to the engine intake. It is important not to change this since the power module could potentially overheat when the car is running, but not moving.""
These look like the later SMEC controllers used in '88/89 and is in the LHS fender.
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/ecu/index.html
C) Or you could have the preferred one which is the 4 pin ECU (with ballast resistor) and is the one you should switch to (if you want it to run properly) if you have the other BS.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html
Last edited by lilredex; 07-29-2009 at 04:03 PM.