318 timing chain woes
OK if you already have that chain, use it.
It won't matter if that camshaft has been removed or not, because if you line up the gear marks as previously outlined (and yes, Charlie's instructions also) you automatically put the camshaft and crankshaft in phase with each other. Both those gears are keyed, and you have to line up the marks. So, now you have the No1 piston at TDC (at top of the compression stroke) and valves both are closed. You now need the plug to fire, beginnining the power stroke. Sooo...........you need the rotor pointing to No1 plug wire? So, rotate those wires beginning with No1.
Why are they now F'ed up?? My guess is that when the chain jumped, someone got in there and adjusted the timing so it would sort of run right again. You can see that......the valves now lag behind the piston, so to prevent the plug from firing before reaching TDC you gotta slow the spark.The distributor does not know where the piston is, it is driven to the tune of the valve train.
Done this a couple of times myself, until the valves hit the pistons and you are forced to correct the prob.
It won't matter if that camshaft has been removed or not, because if you line up the gear marks as previously outlined (and yes, Charlie's instructions also) you automatically put the camshaft and crankshaft in phase with each other. Both those gears are keyed, and you have to line up the marks. So, now you have the No1 piston at TDC (at top of the compression stroke) and valves both are closed. You now need the plug to fire, beginnining the power stroke. Sooo...........you need the rotor pointing to No1 plug wire? So, rotate those wires beginning with No1.
Why are they now F'ed up?? My guess is that when the chain jumped, someone got in there and adjusted the timing so it would sort of run right again. You can see that......the valves now lag behind the piston, so to prevent the plug from firing before reaching TDC you gotta slow the spark.The distributor does not know where the piston is, it is driven to the tune of the valve train.
Done this a couple of times myself, until the valves hit the pistons and you are forced to correct the prob.
Last edited by lilredex; Aug 10, 2009 at 07:19 PM.
When you stand in front of the engine facing the rear and look down on the distributor where is the number 1 wire on the cap? It should be at the 6 o'clock position toward the front of the engine.
My guess is that when the chain jumped, someone got in there and adjusted the timing so it would sort of run right again.
And lilredex I can assure you that no one has turned the distributor on this truck ever I am the original owner and it's never been in a shop I have maintained and repaired everything it ever needed ( suprisingly little for the years and mileage, water pump, hoses, belts,A/C work drag link and brakes) myself.
This is what seems odd to me as to why or how it's not pointing at #1 but at #6
I believe it's supposed to point 6 when timing gear marks are lined up. It points to 1 when dist. has been removed and ignition timing needs to be set by timing mark on crankshaft dampener.. I could be mistaken because I made one before.
your cam turns once for every 2 time your crank turns so it may seam off but its not. you can only tell if the distributor off by 180 degrees once you get it back together. if it is off by 180 degree cough gas out the carburator when you go to fire it up.
Last edited by crazzywolfie; Aug 11, 2009 at 03:36 PM.
You can usually confirm that No1 cyl is at the top of its compression stroke when the harmonic balancer (front pulley) timing mark lines up with the mark on the timing cover. There is some risk to this proceedure as that outer ring on the pulley has a habit of "spinning" on the hub as it ages (mounted in rubber). When new, I believe the keyway lines up with the TDC timing mark on the pulley..........anyone confirm that? This is where the distributor should point to cyl No1. (with No1 cyl at TDC compression stroke) and you can physically check with a stick down the spark plug hole. Think I may have confused the issue previously.
You can usually confirm that No1 cyl is at the top of its compression stroke when the harmonic balancer (front pulley) timing mark lines up with the mark on the timing cover. There is some risk to this proceedure as that outer ring on the pulley has a habit of "spinning" on the hub as it ages (mounted in rubber). When new, I believe the keyway lines up with the TDC timing mark on the pulley..........anyone confirm that? This is where the distributor should point to cyl No1. (with No1 cyl at TDC compression stroke) and you can physically check with a stick down the spark plug hole. Think I may have confused the issue previously.





