I'm almost done putting my newly acquired 5.9l '75 W200 back together after replacing the intake gaskets. Unfortunately I didn't pay attention to how the transmission kickdown cable (or whatever you wanna call it) hooks up to the throttle. I can't find any information on the internet, and the chiltons manual I have does a very crappy job of showing how the cable is connected. Can anyone explain to me how it's supposed to connect? Pictures would be very helpful. Thanks.

 

Ok I have the kickdown cable hooked up the way I THINK it's supposed to go. The truck will shift from 1st to 2nd now but it shifts late and hard. Messing with the adjustment rod doesn't seem to have any affect on when it shifts, and I still can't get it in to 3rd. Can someone please tell me what the proper adjustment procedure is? Chilton manuals suck when it comes to transmission issues.

 

Anyone?? I just need to know the proper set up of the kickdown cable. Still can't get her to shift into 3rd.

 

set it by putting the carb linkage all the way back (floored) and adjust the kd linkage so it is all the way back against its stop in this position.

 

Thanks for the reply power ram. I have the kickdown cable adjusted like you said and it seems to shift nice and smooth at light throttle and it holds gears like it should when I get on it.

However I'm still confused on the "correct" way this is all supposed to hook up. The last thing I want to do is fry the tranny because it's not adjusted right. (I'm used to 4 speed trannys with OD, so this 3 speed stuff is new to me)

This pic shows how it is currently connected. At WOT the kickdown lever is all the way back like it should be. Is this how it should look at idle? If it is, what's the point of the long slot in the rod?

 

Im not sure off hand, I have a 89' with a tbi but it still has the kick down a little different than the older ones. Ill ask my mopar expert friend. He'll know.

 

Might it be so that if the throttle is backed off on after a kickdown, the tranny is allowed to shift normally?

 

This is the adjustment procedure for a three piece throttle rod linkage which is what yours appears to be from your pictures. If this is not your system disregard.
1. First be sure to lubricate all moving parts of linkage.
2. Block the choke valve fully open.
3. Open the throttle slightly to release the fast idle cam and then return the carb to curb idle.
4. The next adjustments must have the throttle lever on the tranny all the way forward against its stop. Have someone hold it there during the adjustments. If this moves your adjustments will be incorrect.
5. Use a screw driver to pry socket off the ball at the top of the intermediate tranny rod (that is the vertical rod with a ball socket at the top). With a 3/16 inch rod inserted into the holes provided in the upper bell crank and and lever, adjust the intermediate rod. The ball socket must line up with the ball while aplling slight downward pressure on the rod to remove all free play but not enough to move the throttle lever on the tranny. Assemble the ball socket and remove the 3/16 inch rod from the upper bell crank and lever.
6. On the carb. Remove the spring and the, missing in your case, hair pin clip and washer from the carb lever pin. Adjust the slotted throttle rod so that with slight rearward pressure on the rod ( to remove any freeplay) the back of the slot just touches the carb lever pin. Install a new washer a hair pin retainer clip and your return spring.
7. Have your assistant release the tranny throttle lever. Next verify proper operation by moving the slotted throttle rod rearward and allowing it to come forward slowly. It should come back to just touch the carb lever pin. Remove the choke block.
Haynes Manual #30040 (912) has pictures and this procedure in it. It also has a lot of info I have not found else where on our trucks from 1974-1993. If anything here is unclear I will try to explain further if you ask specific questions.

 

Thanks everyone. I'll give that a shot a soon as the weather gets a little nicer. I'll have to get a haynes manual too, since the chiltons manual I got from the library is worthless.

 

the haynes manual is no better for your truck. i have one and it would be pretty much useless for your truck.