OK

1.Yes I meant cap the outputs on the Master and see if I get pressure.

2. I have a feeling that I did not bench bleed properly.
That was my first time bench bleeding.

3. I think my proportioning valve is fine.

I am going to RE bleed the master and start over and try again.
Any ideas or suggestions on hoe to bleed the master while it is still on the truck? Or do I need to just remove it and try again?

THANKS!!

 

You can bench bleed in the truck. Disconnect the brake lines. Install a short piece of brake line in each outlet and bend them up so they end in the master cylinder submerged in the brake fluid in each corresponding reservoir. Push on the brake peddle till it hits the floor and let it up. Pause for a few seconds and repeat until there are no bubbles coming out of either line. Remove each bleeder line and install truck brake lines and then bleed the whole system 1 cylinder/caliper at a time in the proper order.

 

Sweet thanks Seal for that advice, I figured that would work so I bought the stuff to do that on my way home from work.

I just wanted to hear someone tell me it would work before I tried.

Ill try bleeding the dang master and then the re bleed process.

Wish me luck! lol

 

OK so I need a little more help.
I re bleed everything including the master and got brake pedal back.
I still dont have the kind of pedal I should though.
I have bleed EVERYTHING multiple times to no avail.

So here is what Im thinking, the only thing that isnt new is the proportioning valve.

I have bleed the front calipers but they DO NOT bleed like the rears do.

I get a really really really slow fluid flow coming out of them and the pedal doesnt go down like it does when bleeding the rear.

Now maybe this is normal because I'm no brake bleeding master, but if they are supposed to bleed similarly to the rear then I have a problem. If they are supposed to bleed like the rear with pressure behind the fluid then is it that proportioning valve?

Is there a way to check/test/fix that dang thing?

I guess I could always buy a new one right? $150 though so some suggestions would be great!

Thanks!

 

the front brakes are suppose to bleed the same way as the back. if you do have some brakes you should see about driving it around a bit and stomping on the brakes to see if they get any better. if there is any air in the line it should make its way out or to the bleeder screws after driving and stopping enough times. don't test drive it anywhere busy.

 

Look on the front of the proportioning valve. There is a stem sticking out. Get hold of the stem and manually exercise it out and back in. This will ensure the valve is not frozen but other than that I don't believe any other test exists. This stem is for locking the valve in an open position for pressure bleeding.

 

OK I drove back and forth in my driveway for 30 min today pressing on the brakes. I seem to get better brakes in reverse that I do forward.

I think by now the brakes are adjusted in the rear, I hear them grabbing.
All that is left now is for the correct amount of pedal to start appearing.

Basically I seem to have excessive brake travel.
The brakes dont grab until I have the pedal to the floor. If I let them off the floor even a 1/2 inch the car begins to roll forward or backward depending on which gear I am in.
So it stops and everything appears to be working, but not quite right. Still not enough brake pedal to make me comfortable driving it.

Should I just keep driving it back and forth then try bleeding it again? Thanks

 

yes you should try bleeding them after you drive it back and forth. it should push the air to the bleeder scews.

 

OK I got fed up today and figured I would start from the beginning and rethink everything. I hammered two 6 in pieces of 3/16ths brake line shut and stuck them in the master.

I pressed on the pedal with the truck on and off and got pedal!!!

OK, so I have only two options for problems, Air in the lines or a bad proportioning valve.

Took the dang valve out and low and behold the stupid peg on the end wouldnt budge. So I figure thats why I only got some fluid to the fronts.
I worked it free, but I am just going to buy a new one because its still pretty stiff.

Here is to hoping that was the issue since the vlave is $130!

 

Hi there,

Did you ever trouble shoot your brake booster to make sure you are getting power assist when braking?

Just more food for thought.