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88 D100: Sputter, Misfiring

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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 09:35 PM
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From: Cave Spring Virginia
Default 88 D100: Sputter, Misfiring

I have read several other threads about similiar problems. On my 88, I replaced the rotor button, dist cap, new plugs, and new plug wires. Nothing wrong with it prior to that. Drove it about 120 miles after installing the new stuff, then all heck hit the fan the next day.

Idles great, but once you put her in gear....sputter, spit, and cut out. Its been in the Dodge shop for 3 weeks & they can't figure it out. The only thing they have done so far is a new O2 sensor.

Any advice out there?

Thanks
 
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 07:47 AM
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I don't see anything you did as the cause of what is wrong now. I would check the injectors first because it is cheap and easy and will cause what you describe. If you give more specifics about when and how the truck reacts we can probably help you more.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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the local dodge garage has had it for 3 weeks and can't figure it out. The morning that it began this issue...she started fine and idled fine. When I put it in gear, you co uld tell that it wanted to stall. When I pushed the accelerator, it was if she wasn't getting gas. I drove it 6 miles to the Dodge dealer's shop and when I had her up to speed...she ran ok, but as soon as I let off the accelerator, she shut down. Everytime I had a stop-light, I had to put her in neutral and keep her idling

Really puzzling!!!
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 09:36 AM
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My experience with the dealers around here is that they employ replacement mechanics that need a computer to tell them what to replace. 8th street in Salem has B&B Transmissions and Certified Truck and Auto Service. They are reputable, honest, and knowledgeable. I would take it to Certified if it was my truck. For alignment or front end problems I use Brambleton Alignment.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:21 AM
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I believe you are right on target. I have owned dodge trucks since '93 and have done most of the minor repair stuff myself when I had a garage. Now that I'm in a condo, well, I have been using Dominion. Up until this point, they have been great to me, I can't understand why they can't handle this particular issue. Maybe they have newer mechanics like you mentioned and the older guys were either let go in their downsizing or they saw the writing on the wall a few years back and got out.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by durec
I believe you are right on target. I have owned dodge trucks since '93 and have done most of the minor repair stuff myself when I had a garage. Now that I'm in a condo, well, I have been using Dominion. Up until this point, they have been great to me, I can't understand why they can't handle this particular issue. Maybe they have newer mechanics like you mentioned and the older guys were either let go in their downsizing or they saw the writing on the wall a few years back and got out.
These days if a truck is 10 years old none of the new batch of mechanics can't fix it. Shops are lazy these days. With times getting hard more guys will be opting to fix their trucks so it would seem there is a good business model in there for an honest person.
I wonder if your computer is mis interpeting the signal from the ox sensor? I would check all the wires going to the sensors as your computer makes decisions based on canned parameters compared to conditions measured by the sensors. I have a Chiltons manual and have found it has diagrams of the backbone of your system. Also a stuck EGR / vacuum leak could make some trouble.
If they don't know whats going on get it out of there before they empty your wallet.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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I had a Nissan truck do the things you have said. I was told it was a coil. I bought 2(has 2 of them),pulled the wire off and it broke. After replacing the coils and wires it ran fine
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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Thanks folks...good info. The latest is that I had the dodge garage pull their most seasoned mechanic...been there since 1977. He had her running great in about 4 hours...replaced a heat sensor! Now here's the kicker......it runs smooth as silk out of gear, and she runs vantastic when I am driving. When I take my foot off of the accelerator, she wants to conk out; not all the time, but some of the time.

The mechanic said that its possible that my torque converter is the the culprit. Does that make any sense????
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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I was kinda thinking that halfway through reading your post. If it locks up and doesn't want to let go it could take the engine down with it. Which would explain why it wants to die in gear, especially at a slow speed.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 07:58 AM
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Here is a site that I found to be very informative. I would do the stall test if I were you. If it indicates a problem with the converter I would take it to B&B transmissions for his opinion. This is all free.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT02.pdf
 
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