I searched numerous forums, and kind of got an idea of what is needed, but nothing too specific to my situation. I'm getting a '99 5.9 Magnum from a 1500 and I plan to put it into my '87 W150.

From what I gather, it's easiest to just convert the 360 engine to carbureted. Also there was talk of getting a B&M flexplate due to balance issues. I've also read about "notching" the bellhousing on the 727 that the new engine will be bolting to for some sensor, but I'm not sure what that's all about.

What else will I need to finish the swap? Ignition? Computer from a newer manual transmission truck? A motor mount for one side from a newer truck? Sensor where the bellhousing is notched?

 

If you go to a carb you might as well get rid of the computer also. There will be no reason to modify the 727 bell housing since you will be eliminating the sensors when you get rid of the computer. If you don't want to mess with points go for a 4 pin engine controller with a single pick-up coil distributor and a single ballast resistor.

 

So I'm guessing there is a sensor thats on the engine that will need to be taken off so it can fit to the tranny? (I'm picking the engine up tonight). I plan to somewhat build this engine up before dropping in, i.e. cam, port & polish, headers, etc... so a better ignition may be beneficial, although I'm not too familiar with what you're talking about, "4 pin engine controller with a single pick-up coil distributor and a single ballast resistor". Is there an ignition setup with all this on Summit or Jegs?

I also read somewhere about a fuel eccentric or an inline fuel pump. Is this needed if converting to a carburetor, or just if you plan to keep the EFI?

Also, will the serpentine belt setup on the magnum engine run all my components, or will I need to change the magnum to the v belt setup?

 

to carb a magnum engine you will need new carb compatible magnum intake manifold, electric fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. you may also need the power steering pump from a magnum engine but i'm not sure. other than that i think you old engine should have all the ignition parts you need.

 

Thanks crazzywolfie. I hope that diagram will be more understandable when I get into it. If the carb suggested fuel pressure is 4-7 psi, would I be fine with getting a fuel pump that is 4-7 psi and no regulator? I don't see the need for getting a higher pressure fuel pump, only to lower it back down with a regulator, unless I'm missing something.

 

BTW, the end goal will be to make 450ish HP, then put a mild supercharger on next year. With that in mind, I'm thinking a 750 CFM carb, and I'm trying to figure out if I need to upgrade the ignition. Don't they make complete kits that replace everything with an ignition box? Would this do the trick ? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690428/

 

that is just a conversion kit for if you have a point ignition system or if you have a truck with the computer behind the battery.

 

Any idea on whether my 727 has a lockup torque converter? I'm thinking a 2400 stall torque converter should go nicely with the modified 360.

I know how to tell if I take the engine off from the transmission, but is there a way to tell so I can save my pennies and order the correct torque converter without taking it all apart?

 

Lock-up converters first came into use in 1978 for Chrysler. If you know what to look for the valve body is different. A lock-up module was added to the valve body to control the converter.

Be careful choosing a converter using stall speed. Stall speed is a variable and not a constant. The same converter will stall at different RPMs behind engines with different levels of torque. The value you need is called the K value. With the K value you can compute the stall speed of any converter for different engines with different torque capacity. Stall RPM equals the K value times the square root of the torque of the engine (expressed in FT. LBS.) and/or the K value equals the stall speed divided by the square root of the torque of the engine.

 

So with that being said, if I wanted to stick to a conservative number, say 2400 RPM, but would accept up to 3000 RPM, I should still be relatively safe as long as I'm not putting out 800-1000HP. Although, none of the torque converters on Summit's site indicate a k (or constant?) value.