Ok, so I know this isn't a 1st gen ram, but there isn't really an "other brands" section here except in members rides, and I feel that you guys are more receptive to stuff like this than the testosterone horde in the 2nd gen section.

I wrecked my ranger yesterday. Its my commuter/beater for when my dodge is sick or its drinking problem is getting to my wallet. Anyway, I went around a turn at what was apparently too fast a speed for the conditions, ended up sideways in the middle of both lanes. Not really a huge problem until I saw headlights coming at me, so panicked and put it into the ditch on the right. I ended up hitting the ditch, jumping a drainage culvert, taking out some small trees, almost rolling it, bottoming it out a few times bouncing around, going straight over a log or two, and then coming gently to rest on the side of the road.

I think that might be how God communicates in CAP LOCKS. Anyway, after I cleaned the crap out of my pants, and got myself back together, I did a once over of the truck, found nothing that would stop it from being driven two miles, and went home to get the dodge.

Its beat to hell now, which isn't such a big deal, but I now have about 3 or 4 degrees of negative camber in the front. My wheels look like this //---\\ instead of this ||---||. Nothing is broken as far as I can tell. The frame was previously repaired, and the frame is still good around the patch. All of the front suspension is still attached to itself. Now, when I drove it home, it felt very darty and jumpy, at least compared to before. Could this be because of the camber, or should I assume that something must be loose? It tracked straight, and felt ok other than being so twitchy.

I'm going to try to get it up on a lift today, so I can really look over things, but my big question is about the camber. Is a few degrees of camber safe, until I can get adjusted camber bushings? I'm assuming you can't get rid of 4 degree camber with the stock bushings. This is a 2wd with ford's ttb, by the way. Its a design where each wheel is connected to a single arm which attached to the frame on the opposite side, so the arms cross in the middle. I think I probably spread/twisted out the frame rails upon landing. Would i be correct in assuming that you CAN safely drive with big negative camber, assuming it is equal? All the kids in their little ricer mobiles dial in big camber on purpose, but I know that a kid in a honda civic isn't always the best example when it comes to proper care and safety. I don't want to put a lot of money into the truck, but I want to be safe too. I don't want to go back into that ditch. Wearing out tires quicker is ok, temporarily. Being a danger to myself and others is not. I'm done with that crap. 3 feet to the left, and I would have hit a concrete barrier at the end of the culvert. 3 feet to the right, and I would have hit a tree head on. I really feel like I have a new respect for life now, and for driving and its dangers. Ironically, the day before this, my mom was very enthusiastically telling me that I need to slow down before I get a speeding ticket. (I generally went about 7-10 mph over). I guess its not the tickets you really need to worry about. Anyway, I'm here, I'm alive, and I'm a little bit wiser. Now about that camber?

 

"testosterone horde"? Please explain. LOL

You are correct that camber will eat your tires. Other than that it should be drivable after a good inspection to make sure that the camber is the only thing wrong. I personally doubt camber is the only problem. I would think the camber being out is just a symptom of the actual problem. It could be a bent axle arm, a bent pivot bracket, or broken bolts connecting these things.

Even zero camber adjusters can be turned to help out some. What year Ranger is it? I find it hard to believe the frame is the problem as the pivot bracket that the axle arm connects to is bolted to the cross member and not the frame if I remember correctly.

 

I popped both upper balljoints out, so I'm sure that accounts for at least a small part of it. I was thinking that bent ttb arms or their mounts having shifted would have been the cause of the problem.

Once the balljoints are taken care of, we'll see where that puts me. Its a 1993, 2wd.

By "testosterone horde", I meant that things have a tendency to get heated more easily in the 2nd gen section.

 

WOW! Don't both ball joints in the Ranger come into the axle arm from the bottom?

I have been told by 2nd Gen owners that that is why we get so many general questions here in the 1st Gen section from 2nd Gen owners. You can't help anyone if you can't be civil.

 

In mine, the upper comes in from the top, and the bottom from below. I know they changed everything around a lot in the late 90s, and maybe again in the 2000s. I know my stepdad's 2003 is a more traditional a-arm setup. I stopped by the scene of the accident today to pick up my airdam and check out the damage. There is one point where the tire tracks just disappear for about 15ft! :-o

Lucky is me, especially if the truck is back on the road for less than I paid for it.