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Old May 31, 2012 | 06:59 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by sls001
Check for codes and check the fuel pressure
I'll ask again...have you checked the codes? What are they? You say you replaced the TPS why?

If you are checking the voltage on one of the wires - which one? Since 4.65 volts is probably the reference signal.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 07:13 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by sls001
I'll ask again...have you checked the codes? What are they? You say you replaced the TPS why?

If you are checking the voltage on one of the wires - which one? Since 4.65 volts is probably the reference signal.
Hmmmm. I'll answer you specifically. I replaced the TPS because it threw a code (24). Still had the problem, checked the voltage at the center wire and got 4.65. Changed it again and had the same reading at the same connector.
Bought the third one from Autozone and all is well (no code 24).

Hope this helps.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 4990Ram
Hmmmm. I'll answer you specifically. I replaced the TPS because it threw a code (24). Still had the problem, checked the voltage at the center wire and got 4.65. Changed it again and had the same reading at the same connector.
Bought the third one from Autozone and all is well (no code 24).

Hope this helps.
Ok...as you know a code does not mean the part is bad...and it sounds like you are at least testing things out...

But... The center wire (on the TPS connector) is the circuit K8 and should be a violet (possibly VT\WT) colored wire...this is the 5 volt signal wire from the computer so if your seeing 4.6 volts that is ok...you can check back to the computer by checking the voltage at pin 13 on the 60 pin connector...

Verify that you have a good ground on circuit N5 the BL\LB wire on the TPS connector. This is the common ground to all of the sensors.

The wire you want to check is circuit K7 (OR\DB) wire...with the throttle closed it should be close to 0 volts and wide open somewhere around 3.0 volts...

Did you have any other codes?
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 09:45 PM
  #14  
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The only other codes I'm getting are 12 and 55 which are normal.
According to the Chiltons manual I have, the test is performed at the center wire of the three. With the throttle plates closed and the key in the on position, I get 0.9 volts. With the throttle plates in the wide open position, I get 3.45 volts.

What I have now is a bad stumble just off idle. Both fuel injectors at idle appear to be, what I would describe as 'spitting', not really a nice cone pattern.
And a slight miss at cruising speeds.

WOT has no problems.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 10:05 PM
  #15  
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maybe you could try running something like sea foam in your gas to try cleaning your injectors.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
maybe you could try running something like sea foam in your gas to try cleaning your injectors.
Great stuff. I've run 3 cans through it.
My neighbor keeps saying I need to change the fuel filter. Wouldn't a partially plugged filter starve the motor under WOT?
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 10:53 PM
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it might be possible that a partially plugged filter might be starving the motor under WOT. i don't think it would hurt to change the filter if it has not been done since they are relatively cheap and it is part of regular maintenance.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 11:03 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
it might be possible that a partially plugged filter might be starving the motor under WOT. i don't think it would hurt to change the filter if it has not been done since they are relatively cheap and it is part of regular maintenance.
Probably a good idea.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 11:26 PM
  #19  
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Just did the Ohm test on the intake manifold air temperature sensor.
I got a reading of a 'tick' over 1K Ohm's. Book says to replace if under 1340 Ohm's.

Looks like this sensor is next on the list.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 06:50 AM
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If you aren't getting a good spray pattern from the injectors that is a problem that must be corrected before you try to go further. If you can find an injector shop that actually rebuilds them that is where you want to buy them. Injectors that sit around on the shelf for long periods of time like at a parts store are unreliable most of the time in my opinion. A freshly rebuilt and freshly tested injector is the way to go.
 

Last edited by SEAL; Jun 1, 2012 at 06:55 AM.
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