92 d250 Will not start without boost jump
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92 d250 Will not start without boost jump
Hello all, I have a 92 d250 3/4 ton auto.
It will not start unless you jump start it on boost with a battery charger.
I have replaced the battery, altanator, fuel pump, ECM, 3 relays- fuel, starter and one other one just because it was there.
When it will start the check engine light will come on and maint req light...
another relay somewhere? I have had to a mechanic and they are stumped also...ready for the shredder.
It will not start unless you jump start it on boost with a battery charger.
I have replaced the battery, altanator, fuel pump, ECM, 3 relays- fuel, starter and one other one just because it was there.
When it will start the check engine light will come on and maint req light...
another relay somewhere? I have had to a mechanic and they are stumped also...ready for the shredder.
Champion
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,639
Likes: 4
From: Bent Mountain Va
Have you cleaned up the frame and engine grounds? Have you checked the codes?
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal)
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
45 Overdrive solenoid shorted or open (automatic transmission only)
46 Charging system voltage too high
47 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal)
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
45 Overdrive solenoid shorted or open (automatic transmission only)
46 Charging system voltage too high
47 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
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Thanks for the info, problem is the check engine light won't come on with the codes....if it will come on thats when it starts. I just went out and tried it and no codes would flash. Could the ignition tumbler be some of the problem? Temp. is above 32 so it will make it some what nice to work on it for a while today, but temp has not been a issue when it will start...
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yes i tried it several times, now i found some arcing off the -neg post...i believe something is shorting out somewhere. So now i guess start chasing wires to see what is grounding out...just don't know where to begin.
Legend
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,025
Likes: 72
From: orangeville ontario
you would not be the first person to try it and not get it to work. i personally got a code reader that will pull the codes for me.
did you try cleaning the battery terminals and battery posts? shouldn't be anything arcing off the negative battery post.
did you try cleaning the battery terminals and battery posts? shouldn't be anything arcing off the negative battery post.
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cleaned a couple grounds i could see around motor and firewalls and still arcing, nice big puddle from the snow dripping under the truck, wait till this storm passes and probaly pull the bed off again and check the fuel pump connections and grounds, work my way back to the motor and all the harness's. Thanks for the input and have a happy holiday!
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Legend
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,025
Likes: 72
From: orangeville ontario
were is it arcing? i am not really understanding why you need to remove the bed? there is no ground back there that would make your truck need to be boosted to start. the only ground cable that would cause you to need a boost is the one that goes from the negative post on the battery to the engine block. if you see arcing i would guess you have a bad connection where it is arcing.
