"NEW" 250 Cummins - Please Help Me Learn!
The previous owner claimed it was a cut frame, but when I crawled under, I didnt see any cut marks or welds. (He wasnt the one who did the work) I know it wasnt cut off the back, because the wheel base is actually shorter, which means that it would have to be cut half way up the frame, and would require shorter drive line components, mainly the drive shaft. Once I really get into working on this thing I will do a very close inspection of the frame, as well as look for any serial numbers on it that may indicate its origins.
All in all Im not worried about the "originality" because frankly as long as it looks awesome, and all the parts can still be purchased off the shelf, then there is nothing wrong with it.
The car should be done and out of the garage by next weekend (just put the clear coat on yesterday), so once I make some progress on the truck I will provide an update...
All in all Im not worried about the "originality" because frankly as long as it looks awesome, and all the parts can still be purchased off the shelf, then there is nothing wrong with it.
The car should be done and out of the garage by next weekend (just put the clear coat on yesterday), so once I make some progress on the truck I will provide an update...
yeah, I wouldn't worry about originality either, but we are all curious! Usually stuff like this with no evidence of a cut frame is a driveline swap but after all the back and fourth, I am unsure that is possible either since the frame measures 8in wide.
Hey guys… so I thought I would provide an update of how things are coming along.
Over the last 3 weeks, I successfully cur out the rear wheel arches that were rusted. I purchased the patch panels and welded those in. I then began the body work process. I also cut out and welded in new rocker panels. As of last Friday all the body work was complete. After work on Friday, I got home and got down to it. By Firday night she was primed. By lunchtime on Saturday I sprayed my base coat, and the clear was on by 5:00. Sunday I reassembled all the body parts and assembled all the hardware on the doors.
I am going to wait until the weather warms up before I cut and buff the clear. I am going to attach my visor and pin stripe it and then the exterior is all done. I think the brakes need to be bled out (the light is on) and that should cover the mechanicals. I will inspect the e-brake as well. Im hoping to have it to the shop for safety inspection this week or next. Just have a few bugs to work out and she should be good to go.
Also on a side note, I realised that I don’t have any leafs in the rear… it has air suspension. I knew it had air bags in the back, but didn’t clue in to the fact that there were no leafs until I had the wheels off. Kind of a cool add-on. It has an on board compressor, so I can adjust them from the cab.
I will post pics once photobucket stops glitching on me… she is looking mighty perty… and will only get better once I can buff it out and finish the detail work.
Over the last 3 weeks, I successfully cur out the rear wheel arches that were rusted. I purchased the patch panels and welded those in. I then began the body work process. I also cut out and welded in new rocker panels. As of last Friday all the body work was complete. After work on Friday, I got home and got down to it. By Firday night she was primed. By lunchtime on Saturday I sprayed my base coat, and the clear was on by 5:00. Sunday I reassembled all the body parts and assembled all the hardware on the doors.
I am going to wait until the weather warms up before I cut and buff the clear. I am going to attach my visor and pin stripe it and then the exterior is all done. I think the brakes need to be bled out (the light is on) and that should cover the mechanicals. I will inspect the e-brake as well. Im hoping to have it to the shop for safety inspection this week or next. Just have a few bugs to work out and she should be good to go.
Also on a side note, I realised that I don’t have any leafs in the rear… it has air suspension. I knew it had air bags in the back, but didn’t clue in to the fact that there were no leafs until I had the wheels off. Kind of a cool add-on. It has an on board compressor, so I can adjust them from the cab.
I will post pics once photobucket stops glitching on me… she is looking mighty perty… and will only get better once I can buff it out and finish the detail work.
Hey all, so I finally got the pics uploaded… see the links below.
Also, here is the link showing the setup I have in the rear end with no leafs.
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y539/jdschwass/02_zps48ed7091.jpg
You can see it in the picture, but its double pinned up at the front side of the bracket. I am not sure what is keeping the axel from moving side to side, I will have to get underneath to check it out closer. Its neat because the gauge for the air sacks in the cab actually fluctuates when I hit bumps… so I know it is absorbing. I was hoping to have it safety inspected this week, but the link between the power steering pump and the main steering bar has some slop in it and I don’t think it will pass. It is 130 bucks here in Canada, so I may wait until I go down state side in 3 weeks to buy it for half price. I also have some vibration going on anytime my boost gets over about 4… I am going to pull out the rear DS and check the joints and carrier baring… and then take it for a drive without the rear shaft in… this will help tell me if the issue is in the rear end or in the tranny/ transfer case… it’s a pretty violent vibration, so no way it would pass. If I drive conservatively however its smooth as can be… cant wait to get her on the road!
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6cee775c.jpg
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...psd20e3e47.jpg
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...psc440fabe.jpg
Also, here is the link showing the setup I have in the rear end with no leafs.
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y539/jdschwass/02_zps48ed7091.jpg
You can see it in the picture, but its double pinned up at the front side of the bracket. I am not sure what is keeping the axel from moving side to side, I will have to get underneath to check it out closer. Its neat because the gauge for the air sacks in the cab actually fluctuates when I hit bumps… so I know it is absorbing. I was hoping to have it safety inspected this week, but the link between the power steering pump and the main steering bar has some slop in it and I don’t think it will pass. It is 130 bucks here in Canada, so I may wait until I go down state side in 3 weeks to buy it for half price. I also have some vibration going on anytime my boost gets over about 4… I am going to pull out the rear DS and check the joints and carrier baring… and then take it for a drive without the rear shaft in… this will help tell me if the issue is in the rear end or in the tranny/ transfer case… it’s a pretty violent vibration, so no way it would pass. If I drive conservatively however its smooth as can be… cant wait to get her on the road!
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6cee775c.jpg
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...psd20e3e47.jpg
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...psc440fabe.jpg
I did some research on the rear suspension… there are a number of kits you can buy to add the air suspension.
Basically, with leaf springs, they tend to ride really rough when the truck is empty, and really nice when the truck is lightly loaded. With a heavy load you are sitting really low in the back.
With the air, you can adjust the spring constant so that at any time, the truck always has the same feel, and maintains level, so even with a 1 ton load, it wont be sitting low in the rear. Neat concept, and seems to work, so Im okay with it.
The vibration is concerning. Its only under load, so I am really hoping it is as simple as a u-joint. I guess once I get the DS out I will know pretty quick if that’s the issue…
Basically, with leaf springs, they tend to ride really rough when the truck is empty, and really nice when the truck is lightly loaded. With a heavy load you are sitting really low in the back.
With the air, you can adjust the spring constant so that at any time, the truck always has the same feel, and maintains level, so even with a 1 ton load, it wont be sitting low in the rear. Neat concept, and seems to work, so Im okay with it.
The vibration is concerning. Its only under load, so I am really hoping it is as simple as a u-joint. I guess once I get the DS out I will know pretty quick if that’s the issue…
Like crazywolfie said go to Dieseltruckresource.com and go to the 1st gen thread. Tons of info and bunch of good guys to help you. That truck is capable of a lot of H.P. and torque plus still get good fuel mileage with some minor tweeks. Check out the web site you won't regret it. The site is dedicated to the Dodge / Cummins truck from 1st gen to 3rd gen. Good Luck!!





