Mr. Clean, the cams you suggested are nearly double the price of the summit cam I have picked out (SUM-K6900). I dont know a ton about the specifics of cams, can you maybe explain it to me and why the cams you suggested would be better?

 

I know Comp cams and how they are ground. They grind there cams at a 4 degree advance so, when you install one you just line it up like the factory cam (stright up) and it is ready to go. You do not have to degree it in like you have to with other cam companys. The Summit cams that I have been around act lazy on the bottom end. Look at all the numbers for both cams. Summit cam has an advertised duration of intake 278 and exhaust 288 with a duration at .050" lift of intake 204 and exhaust 214. Comp cams CL20-210-2 cam has an advertised duration of intake 260 and exhaust 260 with a duration at .050" lift of intake 212 and exhaust 212. By this your advertised duration on the summit cam is more but, at .050" lift the comp cam is more. This means the comp cam opens faster so you will have more bottom end power and the power will build faster. Now for your valve lift, the summit cam is listed at intake 0.421" and exhaust 0.444" while the comp cam is listed at intake 0.440" and exhaust 0.440". Also, cams with more exhaust duration and lift than intake are designed for applications where a sacifice in low-end power (bottom end) is acceptable for an increase in mid and upper-range rpm horsepower. Now for the lobe separation. The summit is at 112 degrees while the comp cam is at 110 degrees. The more lobe separation you have the more gap it is between the intake and exhaust lobe opening and closing. You want the lobe separation as low as you can. This helps the bottom end also. All of this tells me that if you only look at the advertised duration the summit cam looks bigger and mybe better but, when you look at all the other numbers and understand them, the comp cams cam will make more power from bottom end all the way to top end. Power I mean torq and horse power. I don't know who summit has doing there cams but, look at what most the pro's are using. A company that there bussiness is making cams and valve train parts. Also, the comp cam that I used for referance is the small cam that I suggested. All that I use is comp cam cams in everything I build because they have never let me down in there performance. Hope this helps you out and tells you what you wanted to know.

 

Yea that's the info I was looking for. I wasn't trying to second guess you just trying to justify all the expenses in my nearly non-existent budget. Trying to get the most bang for my buck, literally.

 

I understand and I am there too. I would spend the $85 more for the comp cam but, that is me. I have always been pleased or surprised with how good comp cam cams have worked for me. You can call them at 1-800-999-0853 and tell them what you are building and what you are wanting to do with it and they will tell you the best cam for you to use. They have added a lot of new cams that I know little about that may be better for what you are wanting. The only thing is they are newer so they may cost more. It is worth a try and you can tell them the cam you are looking at and see what they have to say about it. Any other questions just ask and I will be happy to help or give my advice.

 

Soooo, what is going to give me the most reliable build for the $1000 I have to spend? Ignition upgrades, cam/intake/carb, or transmission work? I've been hearing these 3 options pretty much and weighing them myself, but I dont know enough about this to make an educated decision. Regardless I am going to break down my engine and at least clean/fix/rebuild the existing parts that are on it.

 

Just a side note, comp cams tends to better harden their cams and lifters to keep flattened lobes from occurring. YOU DO NEED TO USE A SPECIFIC BREAK IN ADDITIVE from Comp and add some Joe Gibbs oil to help ensure a reliable camshaft.

Don't let it idle for more than a few seconds and spin it to 2,500 for 10-15 minutes

 

Well, if your trans is working good and you think it will hold up until you have the money to do some work on it, I would do my motor first. I would buy a Weiand dual plane intake #8022, a Comp Cam and lifter kit #CL20-210-2, a Summit 600 CFM carb#SUM-M08600VS, Edelbrock valve springs #5877, Summit timing chain and gear #Sum-G6502. That will run you about $734 before tax and s&h. Then if you can afford exhaust, I would do headers Summit #SUM-G9040, with what ever muffler you want. Use 2.25" pipe and have a H pipe put on if you can. Then I would put on a MSD Ignition box #5520 and coil # 5524. This is if your trans is doing good. For your trans, if you know how to rebuild it I would use a B&M Transkit # 10229 and put a B&M tork converter #10416. That is a 2000 RPM converter. And don't forget your trans fulid. You will need around 15 qts.of ATF+4. Don't forget for your motor build to buy a gasket kit. I did not put that in there. Also, if you have a solid mount cooling fan, I would put a clutch fan on it. It will free up 10-15 hp.

 

So I found a Rochester QuadraJet in a junkyard and was wondering if it will work on my 318, or if it can be modified to work. I assume it can because it is verrrry similar to the Carter ThermoQuad. If I can get it to work I got a Edelbrock performer (no cracks) and the carb for only $60. If I cant make the Quadra work then Ill just try and trade it for a Thermo.

 

The QJ was used on later model 360 4bbl applications, so I don't see why it wouldn't work on your 318.

 

I have looked through my stash and my dads stash of carbs and might have a few choices for you better than the qjet for now... But, if it has the bracketry and linkage for a dodge, it might be worth a shot.... Leaking internal wells are the main issues with q-jets...


I found a Holley performance spreadbore with dodge linkage setup that I can rebuild and send You for $100 including shipping.... And I will throw in a rebuildable Thermoquad for fun.

Great score on the performer intake!

Also, I am trying to see if one of my dodge buddies has a new cam and lifter set in stock for cheap for You...