i think i might have got these from Dodgeboys collection over on RCC a while ago.

 

Ok, I didn't notice this before because I was only looking at the problem in gear, but it also does it in Park. If I give the pedal just the slightest pressure and hold it, the rpms drop and the engine sputters but won't die. If I push just past this point, the engine revs normally. Letting off also returns the engine to a normal idle.

 

Even if this doesn't solve my issue, at least I know how to do it now.

Big help! Thanks!

 

I am going to guess, it is the TPS.

 

Thanks CW, saved me a lot of typing. LOL

That's odd, the AZ here does the loaner tool program. I noticed that Advance Auto does the free loaner tools also. What I did, is install a simple tach in mine since it was cheaper than buying a dwell/ tach meter. But a loaner is just as good for setting the ISC.

Just make sure that when you check the timing that you do it at normal operating temp and unplug the temp sending unit or the timing mark will be all over the place.

Timing and vacuum leaks can make a big difference. The V8 I just put in had all kinds of vacuum leaks. I pulled quite a few vacuum lines and plugs to find cracks and holes underneath hidden from view. Better to have peace of mine knowing that those are set correctly before throwing money at it randomly. Here's an allpar article on stalling issues. http://www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html

One last thing I noticed on your last post was about the sputtering. I just put a 5.2 in mine and it did the same thing. Mine was undriveable and went away at WOT. It turned out to be the hall effect in the distributor. That item doesn't throw a code either. Something to keep in mind if the other items don't solve your problem. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...m=distributors

 

We do loan tools, just not timing lights and tachs, at least not at the stores in this area. I am exceedingly reluctant to spend money on one-time-use tools (AZ pays ok, but I am PT). I know the owner of a local garage, he might let me use his light for the few minutes a timing check will take.

 

could check your local craigs list. i know if i had a car that got great gas mileage i could have picked up a couple of different tuning kit with tach, timing light and vacuum gauge for about $20. i even found someone that was offering 1 of those big cabnet tuning thing that the would have used way back in the day for free but it was so huge and i don't have a garage so i couldn't take it. there are lots of people that are cleaning out garages and just getting rid of tools that they will never need again since most people don't use them anymore for cheap.

 

It was the TPS. Woo hoo!

 

It may not have been the TPS. Dammit.

The RPM drop went away when I replaced the TPS day before yesterday, then came back yesterday. It isn't as bad, but definitely there.

What the hell?

 

I am not sure to how great a length this has been covered, but I had a similar problem with my 1991. When I first got it, if I warmed it up to operating temp before taking off, it would (for the most part) act right all that drive. If I got in, warmed it up a little and took off to let it warm all the way, it would almost stall at lights, the idle would drop enough to let the oil pressure drop as if the truck was turned off, and if I caught it before it stalled, I could rev it a little and it would go back to idling correctly. I just happened to take it to get it smogged, and it failed (see my thread). I heard about that stuff called G2P or guaranteed to pass and stuck a bottle in half a tank, filled the rest with premium, and drove it for a few days.

As if by magic, I stopped having the stalling or low oil pressure problems, and the truck passed smog with flying colours!

to this day and that was a couple months ago, I have not had one single problem with the idle dropping or anything but smooth great running in my truck.