1982 Ram D150 having power problems
I haven't been here in awhile. Update: New plugs, wires, rotor, distro cap. New battery, new wiper motor, new fuel pump (mechanical), new fuel filter and hoses, new carburetor. Drove on 450-mile round trip with no problems except concern about running battery down by starting it. I have had to regularly recharge the battery because of starting sometimes taking awhile (but it does start). Mechanic after fixing last time suggested replacing ignition module and voltage regulator both mounted on firewall. Bought both off Rock Auto. Packing on both parts was oozing down firewall. Thought would have better electric performance but has gotten worse. Has gotten colder but generally battery is very low when turning over yet when put on charger seems to charge verry quick. Even when I disconnect battery and start it barely turns over or fails. General giveaway of low battery is when press on brake truck stalls. Noticed in an emergency situation truck ran fine but when turned on parking lights motor lost power and was concerned about even making up a hill (but once turned off lights power was returned and made it up the hill fine). Admittingly an issue may be messing around with dome/cab lights since passenger exterior cab light does not work and neither does dome light (but light by dashboard storage bin does). Any advice would be grateful. I am replacing the voltage regulator with an AZ one to see what happens.
I haven't been here in awhile. Update: New plugs, wires, rotor, distro cap. New battery, new wiper motor, new fuel pump (mechanical), new fuel filter and hoses, new carburetor. Drove on 450-mile round trip with no problems except concern about running battery down by starting it. I have had to regularly recharge the battery because of starting sometimes taking awhile (but it does start). Mechanic after fixing last time suggested replacing ignition module and voltage regulator both mounted on firewall. Bought both off Rock Auto. Packing on both parts was oozing down firewall. Thought would have better electric performance but has gotten worse. Has gotten colder but generally battery is very low when turning over yet when put on charger seems to charge verry quick. Even when I disconnect battery and start it barely turns over or fails. General giveaway of low battery is when press on brake truck stalls. Noticed in an emergency situation truck ran fine but when turned on parking lights motor lost power and was concerned about even making up a hill (but once turned off lights power was returned and made it up the hill fine). Admittingly an issue may be messing around with dome/cab lights since passenger exterior cab light does not work and neither does dome light (but light by dashboard storage bin does). Any advice would be grateful. I am replacing the voltage regulator with an AZ one to see what happens.
I'd add an aftermarket volt meter to read real time charging. With the age, I'd check all the wires for connectivity. Especially the hot wire to the alternator as well as the ground end of the negative wires. If your negative battery cable is clean and tight at the battery, but not at the block or other grounds, you're reducing the current flow. You should also have one or two ground straps from the firewall to the engine. These puppies can be sneaky. GM had issues with shifter cables melting because the engine starting circuit grounded through the shifter which couldn't handle it.
It did not move. I took truck to AZ and they tested battery and alternator. Tester said power was good then I turn the engine off his tester said the power draining quickly. I told him I had replaced the ignition control module and voltage regulator and he asked if I had polarized the voltage regulator. I was not aware of that option since no directions came in the VR, I just slapped it on. He told me how to do it and to reference online. He told me to take a wire and run from battery to positive terminal on voltage regulator. When you see a spark the VR is polarized and should operate normally. I put another roach clipped wire on the negative terminal in the VR and grounded it on the radiator. I was told to only touch the battery terminal for a second but when I did I saw no spark. I am not sure what I am doing wrong here.
The Battery Guage does not show any movement when turning over the truck. Alternator was tested and seemed fine. Issue appears to be with the new voltage regulator and not polarizing it. Any input would be appreciated since I have never done that before. Online does not have a video on it even though it is MOPAR.
It did not move. I took truck to AZ and they tested battery and alternator. Tester said power was good then I turn the engine off his tester said the power draining quickly. I told him I had replaced the ignition control module and voltage regulator and he asked if I had polarized the voltage regulator. I was not aware of that option since no directions came in the VR, I just slapped it on. He told me how to do it and to reference online. He told me to take a wire and run from battery to positive terminal on voltage regulator. When you see a spark the VR is polarized and should operate normally. I put another roach clipped wire on the negative terminal in the VR and grounded it on the radiator. I was told to only touch the battery terminal for a second but when I did I saw no spark. I am not sure what I am doing wrong here.
I haven't polarized a regulator in years. What are you working on? The old spring loaded regulators, yes. Electronic, no. I'm thinking you have either a problem with the PCM or a wiring issue. With the battery draining quickly, it's possible you have a short somewhere.
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The Battery Guage does not show any movement when turning over the truck. Alternator was tested and seemed fine. Issue appears to be with the new voltage regulator and not polarizing it. Any input would be appreciated since I have never done that before. Online does not have a video on it even though it is MOPAR.
I haven't polarized a regulator in years. What are you working on? The old spring loaded regulators, yes. Electronic, no. I'm thinking you have either a problem with the PCM or a wiring issue. With the battery draining quickly, it's possible you have a short somewhere.
There has been a bad run of regulators in the parts store fore a while now. I buy new old ones off of eBay













