hi, My Dodge 99 Durango has a short in it. I hope it is not the computer. In trying to add more current to a reverse tail light I accidentally touched a hot none fused 12 volt line to the wrong connector inside the trailer hitch assembly.

Symptoms:
I turn the key nothing more then a low faint light in the dash panel.
All fuses and releays appear to be working and tested inside the control box under the hood.

I turn on the dome lights and they feel like they are getting half power.

With the battery connected I read around 9 volts across the batteyr terminal. With no load I get 12V.
I am thinking about disconnecting more circuits to help isolate the bad component. I think the computer is under the hood passenger side. Is there a fuse inside this area?

Any quick diagnose tips would be helpfull.

 

i believe there is a fuse/relay center under your hood.my 2004 dakota has one on the driver side right above the tire.i do not know if there is a main fuse on these trucks or not.my aunt hooked up jumper cables backwards to her toyota and blew the 80 amp main fuse.you might want to pick up a haynes manual for your year and see if that will help.

 

I do have a haynes manual. I have checked the heavy amp fuses. Thank you I am going to disconnect or attempt to identify additional circuits tomorrow.

 

I wonder why you needed more current to the reverse lights for hooking up a trailer light plug? I don't think the main fuse is the problem, I think you still have a short in the wiring modifications that you've done. Reverse your proceedure and restore the wiring to original. If that doesn't cure the problem and you still have a voltage draw, then start your process of eleimnation search. Also have your battery load checked. A good battery should read over 13 volts. It's considered dead below 12.5 volts. Load checking will eliminate broken circuitry in the battery preventing it from accepting and/or maintaining a charge. Back to the original problem. in your search, inspect and test the back up light switch(es). 1 may be on the tranny,or within the shifter area. A voltage surge may have shorted it out there causing your draw.Definately check out your ACC circuits?fuses as that is where the majority of your power goes.

 

I was adding a driving or a 40-50watt flood light as a helper reverse light which needed a higher current draw . So when you hit reverse you could see everything behind you. I should have run a deticated wire with the appropriate fuses and a relay. I have tried removing all lighting fuses and starting the car a day ago. Off course I may have missed something. I am wondering about getting a hold of the official book or Electrical schematic which should be more helpful then the Haynes manual. I will revisit with your recommendations in mind. Thanks Andrew

 

Does anyone know how much current should be pulled when you placed a current meter in line with the battery terminal? I noticed a .9 amp current draw before removing the trailer / interior lamp 40amp fuse. I was able to start the car after charging the battery. I had an awesome interstate battery that has lasted 5 years.. I will pickup a new battery today. SO my current issue may be a current drain on the above mentioned circuit or the old battery.

 

You're on the right track. If you put your wiring back to stock, hopefully that will eliminate the 0.9 volt draw. The amp draw is in direct proportion to the curcuit. Interstate is an awsome battery but 5 years old, it's pretty well had it. Stick with what works, get another 1. In running an auxillary back up light, running a dedicated curcuit is the best idea. If you restored your wiring back to stock and still have the draw, you shorted out the back up light switch. If your truck has an automatic trans, the back up light switch will be in the shifter area, probably intergrated with the neutral safety switch. If it's a manual, it's on the tranny.Disconnectthe switch (just the BACK UP LIGHT Switch) and check for draw again, if none, there's your problem. replace the switch. I reccomend that you run a dedicated wire with an in-line fuse suitable for the light(s) and a suitable toggle switch. Get the correct rating for amperage on the switch and if possible, a light up switch to remind you to shut it off. You could wire it into the ACC side of the fuse box so when the key is shut off, the curcuit is dead saving your battery. Just make sure you wire it into a fuse that can handle the amps.