I have no idea how to change transmission fluid on a 99 dakota. its one of the first things im gonna do but im told i should be cautious about going to a trany shop to have it done. How hard is it to do? can someone point me to a good place online that explains it?

 

Its not too difficult to do but it can be extremely messy. The basic idea is to remove the bolts from the transmission pan but leave one alittle loose and carefully pry the pan off the transmission which will drain the fluid. Make sure you are draining the fluid into a pan that will hold about 6 or 7 quarts. Then remove the two bolts that hold the filter on, and remove the filter. If new filter has an o-ring on it, make sure that the old o-ring comes out, then install the new filter.Then clean the gasket material off the pan and clean the mating surface on the trans, reseal the pan and bolt it back up. When you go to put the new trans fluid in, I would start with about 4 quarts and check your levels from there.

 

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU hand tighten the bolts when you put them back in, and then finish with a socket!!!!!

Very easy metal to strip out, or cross thread!

 

and blow out the gasketjsut go to a shop, it makes a hella mess, nad realy doesnt save you any money..

 

+1 on everything 00dak said.
if you have a few basic tools, and patience, you can do this. it is messy.

if you have a floor jack - use it. if you don't have one - go buy a simple $20-30 one at walmart or discount tool house - and use it. more below.
you will need a big drain pan(s) that can catch 6-7 qts, and also catch a large area (the entire circumference of the transmission pan). a large shallow rubbermaid storage container works well.

here are my additional tips.
1. if you don't understand adjusting bands - that's ok, just leave them alone.

2. understand that the level of fluid in the pan is ABOVE the pan gasket, so as you loosen the pan bolts, and the seal cracks, it will drain out in an almost uncontrollable manner all the way around the pan. as soon as this starts happening, leave the drain pan under the transmission, walk away for about 10 minutes, and allow the fluid to drain down level with the top of the pan. don't rush it.

3. once the pan seal is cracked, and the first 2 or 3 qts has drained out into the pan, and the fluid level is level with the top of the pan, and the dripping has slowed way down - now put the floor jack under the pan and raise it just high enough to hold the pan up snug. now you need a helper, or 4 hands. with the jack under the pan - you hold the pan steady with hand, and remove ALL the pan bolts with the other. now pay attention - you steady the pan full of oil, sitting on top of the jack with both hands (its fairly heavy). your assistant SLOWLY lowers the jack while you keep it balanced. your assistant slides the drain pan up to the edge of the tranny pan (still balanced on the jack), and you tip it up and pour it in. its sounds harder than it really is. but, if you don't do it this way, then you have to lower one side of the pan, which is equally messy and prone to bending the lip.

4. if you plan to keep the truck and regularly service the transmission, either install a simple $5 drain plug (careful where you put it), or weld in a drain bung, or buy a pan with a drain plug. you'll appreciate on your next service.

5. when you refill the transmission, start with about 4 or 5 qts, then start the truck, brake on, and shift to Neutral (NOT park), and check fluid level after it runs a few minutes. understand that one of the pumps does not operate in park, which will produce an incorrect fluid reading.

6. also be aware that the torque convertor and cooler lines hold a lot of fluid, which will not be drained during this service, so you are actually only changing about 1/2 of the fluid. the simplest solution is to initially change it twice, a few days apart. after that change it about every 12-24k miles and it will last a long time. use ONLY ATF+4, available in valvoline and wal-mart brands. its expensive, about $5/qt. don't use any other additives.

7. some report that if you have time, leave the pan off for 8-10 hours, and an extra quart or two will drain out of the cooler lines and/or valve body.

here's a nice how to.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/trans.php

 

I'd personnally suggest you take it to a lube center "Jiffy Lube"or someone simliar, and pay the $$$ to have them do a complete Fluid flush. The drain the trans, replace the filter, re-install the pan and then disconnect a cooling line and using a machine, push new, clean tranny fluid in and force the old, contaminated stuff out and it's done enviromentally safe. If you do it yourself, you may have to deal with disposal issues with the old fluid and just "dropping" the pan doesn't drain and replace the fluid in the torque convert also. Why mix old stuff with a limited amount of new stuff and shorten the life of the filter and/or the tranny? Get new fluid completely into the tranny and then you can getaway with the filter swap every 15K miles or once a year, which ever comes first. I get tranny flushes on my Chev Berretta tranny every other year. It costs about $150.00 but then I got 300K miles on the tranny with just routine adjustments and service. Go figure.

 

nooooooooo do NOT take your truck to an oil change place to have them blow fluid through the tranny, 90 percent of the time the transmission gets damaged!

 

You take your kid to the doctor when he hads the flu, not the dentist? right?