I have a 1998 Dakota 5.2L, auto 500/42re trans, 116,000 mi, 4wd. I am having a shifting prob between 1st and 2nd gear. When at normal rpm I will get an extended shift or rev to abt 4000 rpm then it slides into 2nd. If I let off the gas and get back into it, it will rev a little then kinda bang into gear.After it shifts I have no problem with it pulling. I'm hearing it could be a tv cable adjustment, or speed sensor...I'm really not sure on the tv cable adjustment procedure..Any info will help..Thanks

 

Well I had a similiar problem when I had a 3.9 with the 46re. It wouldn't shift into 2nd easily, it would go up to over 3k before it would pop into 2nd. All the other gears where fine but when I took it in to have it serviced they found a snap ring in my pan. I forget exactly what it went to but in the end I needed a new tranny. Cost me $1400 and change.

Hopefully you don't have the same problem but if you haven't already learned the 46re is not exactly a bullet proof tranny... or anything proof...

Theres other experts on here that can tell you more.

 

On my 2002, I had an issue that when i slowed down to make a turn, completed the turn and accelerate out of the turn, sometimes the trans wouldn't know what gear to select and it ended up between 1,2 shift point, i thought it was slipping. When it finally found what gear it wanted, the shift is very hard.
Mine is an automatic 5 speed behind a 4.7 4x4.

I do not claim to know it all by far, and these new cars are high tech to me.
I can tell you though that as simple as it may sound, a reset of your onboard logic should always be the first thing you do for any drivability issues.

I wonder how many people automatically reboot their computers when they act up, but never think to reboot your car when it acts up.

This may not pertain to all driveablity problems but, what the hell, it cant hurt!

Disconnect your battery cables and touch them together for about 15 minutes. Vise grips work or even duct tape.
After this, drive it like a "normal human being" and let the PCM " LEARN".
I copied the following from an internet article, you may find it useful.



"Replacing a PCM is essentially a matter of swapping boxes. Accessibility can be a problem on some vehicles because the PCM is often buried under or behind other components in the instrument panel, climate control system or console. Some are located under a seat and require removing the seat.
Regardless of the PCM's location, though, one thing you should do prior to removing the old PCM and installing the replacement PCM is disconnect the battery.
Once the PCM has been installed and reconnected, the battery can be reconnected, too. But the job is not done yet. Many PCMs have to undergo a "relearning" procedure after they have been installed or if they have been disconnected from the battery. On some newer vehicles, a scan tool may be required to reprogram the PCM and to reset the anti-theft system.
On some applications, there may be a specific relearn procedure for establishing the base idle speed and other operating parameters. On others, it may be necessary to take the vehicle for a short test drive so the computer can adjust itself. The exact requirements will be spelled out in the vehicle service manual. The best advice here is to test drive the vehicle after the powertrain control module has been installed. A short drive cycle that includes going over 35 mph will usually reset most PCMs so they will operate properly.
The powertrain control module will also continue to learn and make small adjustments to the fuel mixture and other functions over time as the vehicle accumulates miles. If the PCM also controls the transmission, it may take awhile to relearn the driver's habits so the transmission may not shift exactly the same as before until this occurs.
Finally, if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or Check Engine light comes back on after the PCM has been replaced, it means there is still a problem with the vehicle. The fault is probably NOT the PCM, unless the fault code is for an internal PCM fault. The presence of fault codes means additional diagnosis is required to identify and repair the fault. And until the real problem is found and fixed, the PCM may not function normally.
If the engine control system is not going into closed loop, chances are the coolant sensor or oxygen sensor may not be working properly. If spark timing seems to be over advanced or retarded, the problem may be a faulty MAP sensor, misadjusted throttle position sensor or overly sensitive knock sensor. And if nothing seems to work right, low charging voltage due to a weak alternator or poor battery connections may be the fault.
Remember, a powertrain control module needs all its sensor inputs, proper battery voltage, a good ground and the ability to send out control signals to function normally. "

 

band maybe? Does it sometimes skip 2 sometimes?

 

http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...Adjustment.pdf

Here ya go!!!

 

Jeez i need detailed instrustions like that for other things. Those are awesome

 

mine does the same 1-2 missed shift.

Thanks for the guide. Makes me wonder where i want it for autocrossing..i want it to downshift (passing gear) at 3/4 throttle and hold the upshift until almost WOT. Basically so it stays in second, goes to first when I reach 3/4 thottle, be in first when i get to WOT, then hold first out the back door till redline. (using second lockout)


okay, i re-read the PDF. I'll move it back a notch or 2 and see how it feels. For AX I might move it a 3rd notch if it needs it.

 

BIG help. I'll give it a try and keep my fingers crossed.