My water pump is leaking. It will stop leaking about 5-10min after cool down. I went 45mi with it that way never got past 210 so I picked up a pump from auto zone with a life time warranty so might as well put it on only thing is there is a metal tube on the pump for the heater core I dont know how this is held in and dont want to break it upon removal any ideas how to remove it and what is holding it in. Also what all needs to be removed to change the water pump?

 

You will need to remove the fan (obviously). Uhh.. for that, I ended up getting a special tool from NAPA. The nut for the fan/clutch doesn't have a lot of room around it, and the pulley was held on with 4 bolts (I believe)

Besides THAT, make sure you get a new bypass hose (connected to the top of the water pump and goes back into the block). Their like $2, and hell to get to without taking everything back apart.
You will also need to temporarily relocate the AC compressor (you will not have to disconnect any lines, but you will need to slightly move the unit).
You will also need to remove the hard line the heater core return hose goes over. This was a little hard.

This is the big notes I had from changing it on my '96 3.9... which as you know, is pretty much the same as the 5.2, and there shouldn't be much difference between the 96 and 98 for water pumps.

 

this tube your talking about, is metal right? if so, it just pulls out, the new water pump should have come with an o-ring to stick on that. its a PITA to remove, so just remove the rubber hose connected to it, until you get the old pump out, then just keep yanking on the tube until it comes out. its only sealed in there by the old "tired out" o-ring. its also better practice to just replace the metal tube when you replace the water pump. dont know why, thats just how i was taught. the only mistake i made, was not torqueing the bolts, but all it did was leak for a couple of runs, and then it sealed itself up. hasnt leaked since.

have fun!

 

You are in for an adventure for sure! Everything will come out of there without removing major components but the compressor WILL have to be moved to the side a little AFTER LOOSENING THE FAN NUT AND PULLEY BOLTS WITH THE BELT STILL IN PLACE! Remember, DO REPLACE THE BYPASS HOSE! The thread on the BIG NUT that holds the fan to the water pump is a RIGHT HAND thread. If you are lucky you can put a large crescent wrench on this nut WITH the fan belt still installed and give the end of the wrench a few good raps to the left with a large ballpeen hammer and it will come loose. If not get a friend to hold a strap wrench around THE PULLEY while doing the same. It is also easier if you first loosen the four pulley bolts first while the belt is still on there. The belt acts as that third hand we all wish we had at times. The tube you are concerned about is a push in press fit deal and will take some convincing that it should come out. I have re-used this tube with a new o-ring and a little RTV sealer and had no problem with leaking. Just be very deliberate about the force and direction used while removing it (twist while pulling straight out on it) and most of all be patient. It's a rather involved process to replace the water pump but easily do-able. A few beers while undertaking this repair is highly recommended. Just be sure to have enough for a cool down period afterwards and good luck!.

 

Thanks for your help guys got it all completed it was a pita but with 2 hands it was much easier. Im 17 so instead of a few beers it was 2 monsters and 3mtn dews lol Also any idea if any kind of break in is needed?(I tend to drive hard and havent drove my truck in 4 days)

 

Shouldn't require a break in just make sure you have the proper mix of coolant in it.

 

My problem is I can't get the inlet tube in the new water pump, It's a new pump and a new tube. any suggestions?

 

the new tube should slide in pretty easy, so maybe your new pump came with the wrong tube?