Seems now that I remember my ball joints did come with nuts and bolts and I just bought the washers so they would fit the holes I had to drill and so they would tighten down better and more securely. I used TRW lowers and Autozone Duralast for the uppers. I read that TRW makes the Duralast branded ball joints and the uppers don't take near as much abuse as the lowers anyway. The lowers have been on my truck for a year and a half and the uppers for just over a year, no problems or snapped bolts yet...

Jimmy

 

I just want the Raybestos ball joints to last about 3 or 4 years till this economy recovers Money is tight now I think I will get that or more who knows I may even get a newer Dakota by then?

Im going to use top quality Grease on them so that should help with the cheap ball joints.





Im not an off Roader so the Raybestos service Grade should do me fine.

 

I have no idea on the Duralast springs. I guess they would be OK. The Service Grade Raybestos ball joints are about the same as Mevotech, generally considered not as good of a quality part as the Raybestos Professional Grade. If you use them it would be a good idea to check them more often for abnormal or accelerated wear. I have also heard the Service Grade parts are really only good enough to put on a car you are selling, and I have heard they last one year to three years. The main thing you want to avoid is the OEM brand they sell at Advance and some online parts stores. They are pure junk, have very poor construction and you would be taking your life in your own hands if you used those. I read that they are a cheap Chinese-made total POS. Moog used to be considered the best you can buy, I guess they still are, but I also read their quality went downhill some after they filed Chapter 11 Bankruptcy and moved a lot of their operations to China. The TRW ball joints I put on my truck were made in Mexico and are doing fine so far. Not trying to tell you your business but the way I see it is the steering and brakes are way too important to use cheap made parts.

Jimmy

 

As I said if I can get about 3 to 4 years out of them Im happy Im just a streat driver nothing like off roading I would not put them on if I off roaded my truck just simple streat driving.

But thanks for the opinion and yes I plan on checking the grease every six months.

In a year I will re post how the Raybestos service grade are holding up on me.

 

It’s a shame all the quality USA parts manufactures are going going gone it doesn’t have to be that way but the USA companies are just giving up and out sourcing everything to China.

Try and find a good quality grease gun took me days of looking for one finally got a lincoln 1134 gun looks ok have not used it yet but had good reviews. http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubric.../dp/B0002NYDZ8

 

01SilverCC

Raybestos Ball joints are part of The Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association that includes their service grade ball joints so I don’t think I need to worry.

Here is their sheet on how they comply with the standard LINK

 

So been using my new ball joints and Moog coil springs for three days now and I love how it rides now smother stronger feel to the ride not mushy like my old springs very happy with the results.

 

You were not kidding about a tough job. The information you posted was very helpful. I did replace the top ball joint which is easier than the bottom ones. A 36grit 4 and half inch disk on electric angle grinder makes job quicker.

 

When I replaced mine i just used my oxy/act torch and scarf cut the rivit heads off, but you have to be good with a torch to do this I beleive it took me around an hour to hour and a half to do all four.Great write up though. If you use a torch I do recomend you be good with it cause it wont take much to scarf in too deep.grind.gif

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I used this guide to do my upper ball joints and dont think I posted it so here it is replacing the upper ball joints with pic's.


Says for a Durango but same as Dakota http://www.rp95.com/BJ_replacement.pdf