AC Compressor
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
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AC Compressor
Hi I'm new to the thread but, I was wondering if anyone knew of a good how-to on replacing an AC Compressor. Thanks
Also, I have a haynes manual already, It's for a 98 dodge dakota with a 4 cylinder engine.
Also, I have a haynes manual already, It's for a 98 dodge dakota with a 4 cylinder engine.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: IL
RE: AC Compressor
ORIGINAL: clnewsom
Hi I'm new to the thread but, I was wondering if anyone knew of a good how-to on replacing an AC Compressor. Thanks
Also, I have a haynes manual already, It's for a 98 dodge dakota with a 4 cylinder engine.
Hi I'm new to the thread but, I was wondering if anyone knew of a good how-to on replacing an AC Compressor. Thanks
Also, I have a haynes manual already, It's for a 98 dodge dakota with a 4 cylinder engine.
Professional
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 244
Likes: 3
RE: AC Compressor
The gas 134a has to be reclaimed by law. The open lines should then be closed off with a rag and tape them up as to not let any dirt or moisture get inside. If the compressor broke up internally, you have to replace the VIR (valves in receiver) also. You also have to make sure the condenser and evaporator is not restricted in any way. After this the compressor can be replaced and then the system has to be evacuated with a refrig pump. I would let it evacuate for 4 to 6 hours at least. Overnight is better. Evacuate for a half hour and then see if the vacuum holds. this will tell if you have any leaks in the system. If not then you do the deep evac we just talked about. Recharge with gauges in place. I monitor temp inside vehicle as well as gauge presssure at approx 1500 RPM or 2000 RPM. I like to set 134a to no less then 30 LBS suction at this point. Do this on a hot day. Watch head pressure...some systems can go as high as 300 PSI especially while idleing and no air crossing the condenser like when driving the car. It's a little in depth as you can see and takes time to do it correctly....and this is the reason it cost so much to have it worked on. Good Luck!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
RE: AC Compressor
I'm new to this forum and had an additional question regarding the replacement of the AC compressor. Is it enough to use freon with oil already in it? Or is there compressor oil that needs to be added in addition to the freon?
Thanks,
Glen
Thanks,
Glen
ORIGINAL: Robertwav1
The gas 134a has to be reclaimed by law. The open lines should then be closed off with a rag and tape them up as to not let any dirt or moisture get inside. If the compressor broke up internally, you have to replace the VIR (valves in receiver) also. You also have to make sure the condenser and evaporator is not restricted in any way. After this the compressor can be replaced and then the system has to be evacuated with a refrig pump. I would let it evacuate for 4 to 6 hours at least. Overnight is better. Evacuate for a half hour and then see if the vacuum holds. this will tell if you have any leaks in the system. If not then you do the deep evac we just talked about. Recharge with gauges in place. I monitor temp inside vehicle as well as gauge presssure at approx 1500 RPM or 2000 RPM. I like to set 134a to no less then 30 LBS suction at this point. Do this on a hot day. Watch head pressure...some systems can go as high as 300 PSI especially while idleing and no air crossing the condenser like when driving the car. It's a little in depth as you can see and takes time to do it correctly....and this is the reason it cost so much to have it worked on. Good Luck!
The gas 134a has to be reclaimed by law. The open lines should then be closed off with a rag and tape them up as to not let any dirt or moisture get inside. If the compressor broke up internally, you have to replace the VIR (valves in receiver) also. You also have to make sure the condenser and evaporator is not restricted in any way. After this the compressor can be replaced and then the system has to be evacuated with a refrig pump. I would let it evacuate for 4 to 6 hours at least. Overnight is better. Evacuate for a half hour and then see if the vacuum holds. this will tell if you have any leaks in the system. If not then you do the deep evac we just talked about. Recharge with gauges in place. I monitor temp inside vehicle as well as gauge presssure at approx 1500 RPM or 2000 RPM. I like to set 134a to no less then 30 LBS suction at this point. Do this on a hot day. Watch head pressure...some systems can go as high as 300 PSI especially while idleing and no air crossing the condenser like when driving the car. It's a little in depth as you can see and takes time to do it correctly....and this is the reason it cost so much to have it worked on. Good Luck!