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DIY 2nd Gen Dakota eFan upgrade with a Taurus 3.8L efan

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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 01:22 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Rantz
It is the 2 speed. I only have it wired to the high speed circuit. I also never found a reliable cfm rating- just testimonials of its effectiveness on beastie v8s.
Thanks!

I was just helping my friend on his 03 Jeep Wrangler swapping in an electric fan. We started installing an universal unit in. The fan motor on the rear is to large (Big Butt). I think our best choice is going to be the Taurus fan, it looks like it is low profile (Small Butt).

I found 90-95 are the best years, again no creditable sources. Do you know what years?


Originally Posted by cowboy63645
I looked up the part number for the taurus fan, and the parts websites are saying 2500 cfm on low and 3800 cfm on high. That is a good amount of air being moved by a single fan!
Cool! Thanks. That is a good amount.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 04:27 PM
  #12  
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Very good write up. just used this same fan on my 300zx so I had to chuckle when i found out it also fits my truck. great info.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #13  
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I ordered one of those controllers. After a month I got my money back. I sent emails they never wrote back. So i assumed i was getting ripped, so i sold my Viper fan and called the project off, since the factory fan is working fine right now.

Also just to add, you can take off that V bracket to make more room for the shroud, you don't need it, and the more shroud around the radiator the better.

I has one of those fans before. It was nice, but I sold that one too.. lol.

Good write up, and i was going to ask how long it took to get your controller, but know i know. 2 months...
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 12:53 AM
  #14  
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As a follow up, it's still cooling like a champ.
I had a small amount of corrosion around one of the terminals and went at it to clean it and apply electrical connector gel to protect it.
One of my terminal posts has become stripped and I had to add a second nut to make it snug again. I emailed dccontrol about this and he actually called me within a couple of hours. I wanted to give the guy credit. He isn't a fan of "where's my order" communications since he has such a high demand, but he is very mindful of technical support questions. He has worked out a fix and is sending me a "thingy" that'll connect to the post and eliminate the issue. I appreciate his prompt reply and help.
I still am very glad with the results of all of this. Sure the Taurus fan can roar when it's up high since it is so powerful, but that is a small price to pay for quality cooling and no more parasitic clutch fan. I now consistently get 17 to 17.5 MPG mixed driving conditions. Whereas I used to only get 15 MPG before everything.
Has anyone else used this thread as motivation to do it themselves?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 03:00 AM
  #15  
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i am slightly confused. you said you removed your clutch fan and your factory e-fan. why did you need the dcc controler? wouldn't you just use the factory harness and wire in the taurus connector for the fan to your harness and let the factory settings turn on and off your fan?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #16  
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Default Why the factory efan wiring isn't enough

Originally Posted by sl2racer
i am slightly confused. you said you removed your clutch fan and your factory e-fan. why did you need the dcc controler? wouldn't you just use the factory harness and wire in the taurus connector for the fan to your harness and let the factory settings turn on and off your fan?
The factory efan's settings don't turn it on unless your a/c is on or if your truck gets warmer than usual (I think I remember reading somewhere it was at 210 degrees which is a bit warmer than normal temp). If you just went with the factory efan and nothing else, your temperature would spike up and down as it hit the threshhold to turn it on. Ideally, you want an efan to do what the dccontroller does and slowly speed up the fan as needed. So your temperature doesn't spike above the normal temp and will be able to do a better job of holding it constant. The factory efan doesn't cover the whole radiator so it would result in uneven cooling of the radiator (reducing it's efficiency). Also, I assumed that since the factory efan was teeny compared to the taurus fan, it wouldn't be a good idea to use the same wires, but once I was in there, I don't think there was a significant gauge difference.

Here in Florida, where it is uber hot, I don't want to play around with the cooling system of my truck.

These are my thoughts on the issue so anybody is welcome to chime in or clarify anything. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #17  
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Great post, just really hard to read since the photos are all over the page and I constantly have to side scroll. But I think I know what I am doing with my up coming bonus check.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 04:07 PM
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ohh ok. i just haven't noticed any issues with my temp getting any hotter than when i had both fans. and i live a hour north of tampa.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #19  
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Lebbie,
What are you viewing it with? It looks just fine from my computer and phone. Photobucket automatically resizes the pics for web viewing.

Sl2racer,
Which fan did you take out? How has your temp gauge been acting in these recent scorcher days? A little to the left of vertical as usual or does it creep to vertical or further? Mine stays solid at the usual point and never goes past even with the a/c sitting still. I also have a regular thermostat. I'm on my phone so I can't see your signature, but what year and model do you drive?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 05:30 PM
  #20  
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is there any power diffrence with this mod ? any over heating yet ?
 
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