I replaced my two pre-cat O2 sensors
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 116
Likes: 2
From: Maine
I replaced my two pre-cat O2 sensors
Here is the problem I was having (pasted from another post):
"It runs fine when I first start it, but soon after, it starts running rough and won't respond well to the accelerator pedal unless you floor it, in which case the power kicks in suddenly. It will then sometimes run smoothly for a moment or two, and then start acting up again. I heard a mild backfire in the engine bay once too."
I was getting the following codes:
P0135 HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0132 HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Signal Shorted to Voltage
I decided to replace both pre-cat O2 sensors (NTK part numbers 23137 & 23135). I then reset the PCM and it seems to have solved the problem. I've driven it for a couple of days and it has run perfectly, not a single hitch (and no "check engine light" either). Only time will tell if it stays fixed I supposed.
I'm posting about this in case someone else is having similar problems (when I was searching about the problem I found plenty of other people with similar problems, several of whom solved it with an O2 sensor replacement).
Also, I should mention Kano Kroil/AeroKroil. I was warned by several mechanics that changing O2 sensors is a pain because they rust in place (especially true here in Maine) and you normally have to heat the threads with a torch to them to get them loose. I read that Kroil works particularly well; many people saying that it was better than PB Blaster. I ordered some AeroKroil from Kano's website, and I sprayed the O2 sensors down with it and let it sit overnight. The stuff seems to have done the trick. They came out without any problems, and without using a torch. The mechanic that was helping me had never heard of the stuff, but exclaimed, "That stuff works slick as hell!"
"It runs fine when I first start it, but soon after, it starts running rough and won't respond well to the accelerator pedal unless you floor it, in which case the power kicks in suddenly. It will then sometimes run smoothly for a moment or two, and then start acting up again. I heard a mild backfire in the engine bay once too."
I was getting the following codes:
P0135 HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0132 HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Signal Shorted to Voltage
I decided to replace both pre-cat O2 sensors (NTK part numbers 23137 & 23135). I then reset the PCM and it seems to have solved the problem. I've driven it for a couple of days and it has run perfectly, not a single hitch (and no "check engine light" either). Only time will tell if it stays fixed I supposed.
I'm posting about this in case someone else is having similar problems (when I was searching about the problem I found plenty of other people with similar problems, several of whom solved it with an O2 sensor replacement).
Also, I should mention Kano Kroil/AeroKroil. I was warned by several mechanics that changing O2 sensors is a pain because they rust in place (especially true here in Maine) and you normally have to heat the threads with a torch to them to get them loose. I read that Kroil works particularly well; many people saying that it was better than PB Blaster. I ordered some AeroKroil from Kano's website, and I sprayed the O2 sensors down with it and let it sit overnight. The stuff seems to have done the trick. They came out without any problems, and without using a torch. The mechanic that was helping me had never heard of the stuff, but exclaimed, "That stuff works slick as hell!"
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Malfunctioning O2 sensors can cause all kinds of problems. They usually last about 80K miles before they start to fail, so if you replaced the pre-cats you may need to replace the post-cats as well. The pre-cats are used to determine fuel mapping and the post-cats are used to validate catalytic converter health/function. Replacing bad O2 sensors will probably result in an increase in your fuel efficiency.