Brake Questions
 

- The driver's side front caliper has developed a "sticky" piston which makes the pad rub (and squeak) ever-so-slightly. Is there a remedy or do I have to replace the entire caliper?

- The genius' at the local brake shop snapped off the bleed screw - most likely by over-tightening b/c there's no fluid leaking. Can I remove the caliper and use a bolt extractor to replace the bleed screw, or is this caliper a total loss? (As a result of this, I've learned, and am learning how to maintain the brake's myself.)

- What pads would the group recommend? OEM/semi-metallic? Ceramic? I currently have Akebono Pro-Act Ceramic pads, and I'm not really impressed with them. Every six or seven months, I have to deglaze the rotors and pads because they develop a shudder/binding sound when slowing to a stop. You can actually feel them grab when my speed drops below 10mph.

The pads and rotors (new at the time of installation) are going on two years and I still have a little more than half the pad left. Rotor's are in good condition too despite the deglaze. So the life of the pad is good, but it's a pain to maintain a properly performing brake system with them.

I'm a pretty non-aggressive driver. Occasionally I get a little wild but I don't do any big hauling/towing. My biggest loads are piling mountain bikes, beer, tents and such for a camping trip. I live in Colorado and do some mountain driving but I'm not a hot-foot on the brakes. I generally just turn off the overdrive and coast down I-70.

Thanks in advance for helping me understand this my options!

best is a new caliper
 

best is a new caliper cheap $35 install yourself easy to do.

Pads semi-metallic dont get the expensive ones a wast of money not needed a set of pads is $35 to $45 just get the for life Autozone and get pads for life for free.

Get new caliper instal pins/bolts also $5 if you got the cash get new flex brake lines at $20 worth the extra $20

http://www.rp95.com/TTT/braks3b.jpg

OEM pads are the best. Ceramic pads create dust and glaze rotors also they need heat to perform well. I know I have tried. I get about 60k on a set of oem pads with new rotors.

yea ceramic pads are a no no bad idea
 

I agree simple is best and last longer my only upgrade would be quality rotors that’s what I did but they are not the fancy drilled or slotted ones just heavy duty Bindex or Raybestos I can’t remember I have had no problems with them in 8 years.

Some say the stock rotors warp easy

All righty then! Excellent!

I still don't get the orientation of the photo 98DAKAZ posted, but I think once I get the wheel's off, it'll make sense.

Thanks everyone!

back side of caliper and knuckle
 

use anit-seize. on any thing that moves.

use anit-seize ??
 

use anit-seize??

Not sure why you want any anit-seize you mean on wheel studs?

I don’t like that stuff I never use it.

Just remember to lube the caliper pins/bolts just use multi-purpose grease or the little lube pack at the auto store just ask them they will tell you what I mean.

If this is the first time doing the front brakes ask the auto store to explain how it’s done and what you may need what to lube how to snap the pads on the caliper all that stuff they will help.

we make our own Moly lubes. Same assembly lube for race engine as for everything else that moves, in general. If it doesn't get a moly treatment, it gets a buttload of lithium grease. The latter solved my sticking ignition key issue.

I've finally got all my parts and will be tackling this in the next few weeks. Thanks for all the info! Will report back once it's finished.