You are putting an '06 High Output 4.7L engine in a 1998 Dakota? I would like to replace my 2003 4.7L with the new 4.7L. The new dakotas with the new 4.7L engine do not have a 5 speed manual trans. So I hope it will bolt up OK. What trans do you have?

Im sure he has the 45RFE/545RFE.

Does anyone know if the HO 4.7L will line up with my 5 speed manual? I noticed that they do not sell them together in a dakota.

Rear brakes won't stay adjusted
 

2001 Dakota 4.7 with drum rear brakes. Replaced rear shoes and then found that the self adjusters are 1/2 inch away from the star wheels. It was the same as when I removed them. I went to the Napa store and purchased a new complete hardware kit including self adjuster cables. Same problem. I get about a week or two of driving and the brakes are out of adjustment again. What am I doing wrong?

Appreciate the posting, no offense, but if the cylinders, pistons and valves in the head looked this good, why take it apart? How many miles were on this one?

He had said in an earlier post he lost his timing chian and bent the valves.
As far as that little thing you broke in the first few posts. Next to oil fill that is your PCV valve. No biggie. I have been an auto tech since 1976 and only ever had one problem with a FRAM fiter. Yeah it was on my 4.7 Dakota. I changded the oil with Mobil one and the fram filter and the oil pressure took for ever to come up. Engine was quiet but just slow to come up. I changed the fiter with a Mobil one filter next day and the oil pressure popped right up on start up. Who knows maybe they built the Fram filter wrong but it was a dud for sure.
For anyone doing this and planning to use the motor again. Replace all your exhaust maniflod bolts with stainless bolts or use headers. You will probally either find broken bolts or break them when you take them out anyway.
good luck
Dave

The 2006 engine will only run on a NGC 4-Plug PCM because it has the 32-tooth tone ring on it.

The reason he is braking the 2006 engine down is because it has the NGC tone ring on the crankshaft. So he has to remove the 2006 crank and install the JTEC 16-toth tone ring on it.

If you want to run the 2006 engine in place of the 1998 4.7L engine you need to SWAP CRANKSHAFT TONE RINGS and run the tone ring that was designed for the vehicle PCM. In his case he needs to install the 16-tooth tone ring on the 2006 crank.
The only way to do that is to remove the crank and swap the rings.

I hope this helps.

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

Wow it's been a while since I last logged in...

I took apart the "bad" motor because valves were bent and pistons were damage therefore it would need a complete rebuild. Instead I swapped in a H.O V8 from an RT. I did not do this to swap out the tone rings as AIR_RAM said. I was doing it just for the hell of it. It was good experience as I got to see how everything was put together, and understand the mechanics of the motor.

And just so everyone know as well, the original 4.7 he had in there was an 04, therefore he has the 4 plug PCM. I believe they stopped using the 3 plug PCM back in 01. Could be wrong tho, however the last three 02 durangos I came across had 4 plug PCM's. was likely a direct swap.

Thanks for the info too URBANRDNECK. I am gunna be doing a HO 4.7 rebuild on an 03 4.7 Durango motor and its nice to know that once I've got the motor built, it will drop right in, only thing I'm curious of is what did you have to do with the computer? Did you have to swap it to get the new motor running, or was it all plug and play? Also, what kind of gains did you get out of the swap?

That "main timing sprocket" is the idler sprocket and if your planing on re-using the engine your going to have to replace the main tensioner you broke and the timing chain guides I just did my 4.7 cost around $500 in parts with new timing chains and all gaskets ands seals took about 6 hrs you have to get both cams and crank at TDC align the chains properly on idler and crank sprocket slide it all in place without moving chains then remove cam sprockets w/out moving cams to put the chains on them aligning the dots then reinstall sprockets on cams again w/out moving cams from TDC then hand turn the crank w/wrench 2 full engine rotation and check that all sprockets are back at TDC and that's just to set the timing! It's not a job that just anyone should take on especially someone that don't even know what the parts they are removing are called!