Hi..!!! And please help...!!
You won't screw anything up by removing the TB. It's easy. Unplug the 3 sensors but leave them bolted to the TB. You have the IAC in back, TPS on the side and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor on the front. Pop your throttle cable and cruise control cable (if you have cruise) connectors loose, they will slide right off the studs on the TB. Then lift out the plastic throttle cable retaining clip with a small flat blade screwdriver and lift the cable up off the TB bracket. Then remove the four 13mm bolts and remove the TB from the manifold.
Set the TB on your work bench or some other suitable place where you can work on it. The sensors are all held in place with T-20 Torx head screws. You can remove all of the sensors to make it easier and more of a thorough job when cleaning the TB itself and also to avoid getting any cleaner fluid into the MAP or TPS. The only sensor you can clean is the IAC. Use a shop rag soaked in TB or carb cleaner and clean the pintle end. You just want to clean the black crusty crud off of the pintle. Do not handle the IAC roughly and do not drop it, or else you will have to buy a new one. Clean it up and spray a little cleaner down the metal shaft where it slides in and out of the IAC motor housing. Get the IAC orifice on the TB as clean as possible, and lubricate the IAC O-ring with a little clean motor oil when you reinstall it.
It may take a while to get the entire TB clean. You want it to be shiny, clean as brand new and lube all of the pivot points and linkages and the throttle spring. When I clean my own TB I set the TB down in a clean, wiped-out oil drain pan. I spray the crap out of it with TB cleaner, let it set a few minutes and spend probably 45 minutes to an hour cleaning it with shop rags and old tooth brushes. You may need to soak yours in TB cleaner for a while to get all that crud loosened up. Be sure when you reinstall the TPS that you twist it up at about a 30 degree angle to load its armature back onto the TB plate shaft the right way, and don't torque the TPS mounting screws down too tightly, or the throttle will not open up right when you are driving the truck. I learned that one the hard way when I installed my V8 TB.
Jimmy
Set the TB on your work bench or some other suitable place where you can work on it. The sensors are all held in place with T-20 Torx head screws. You can remove all of the sensors to make it easier and more of a thorough job when cleaning the TB itself and also to avoid getting any cleaner fluid into the MAP or TPS. The only sensor you can clean is the IAC. Use a shop rag soaked in TB or carb cleaner and clean the pintle end. You just want to clean the black crusty crud off of the pintle. Do not handle the IAC roughly and do not drop it, or else you will have to buy a new one. Clean it up and spray a little cleaner down the metal shaft where it slides in and out of the IAC motor housing. Get the IAC orifice on the TB as clean as possible, and lubricate the IAC O-ring with a little clean motor oil when you reinstall it.
It may take a while to get the entire TB clean. You want it to be shiny, clean as brand new and lube all of the pivot points and linkages and the throttle spring. When I clean my own TB I set the TB down in a clean, wiped-out oil drain pan. I spray the crap out of it with TB cleaner, let it set a few minutes and spend probably 45 minutes to an hour cleaning it with shop rags and old tooth brushes. You may need to soak yours in TB cleaner for a while to get all that crud loosened up. Be sure when you reinstall the TPS that you twist it up at about a 30 degree angle to load its armature back onto the TB plate shaft the right way, and don't torque the TPS mounting screws down too tightly, or the throttle will not open up right when you are driving the truck. I learned that one the hard way when I installed my V8 TB.
Jimmy
No idea what the dark stuff on the back of the manifold is. Maybe it's gunk that somehow blew out of the IAC orifice, or maybe it is oil coming from somewhere in that area. It might also be due to a bad PCV valve. Maybe after cleaning the TB, you could replace the PCV valve and clean the top of the manifold too, then see if the stain comes back.
The TB being dirty may or may not be the reason for power loss. It might be a contributing factor though. With the throttle plates that dirty, it makes it very hard for the TPS to work right, same for the IAC, but the IAC has more to do with idle than power, however if the IAC is that dirty it could possibly make the truck run bad. You could also have a bad MAP sensor too. Be sure to reinstall the MAP's vacuum hose when you reinstall the TB, and there is a vacuum hose on the front of the TB too, it could be plugged up and possibly causing a power loss.
When was the last tune up done? Maybe it is time for plugs, wires, a new cap and rotor button. Do the key dance - turn the ignition key from off to run (but do not start the engine) and back to off, do that 3 times, and on the third time leave the key in run. Any trouble codes you have stored will display in the odometer. When all codes have been displayed, it will say "P Done". If you have any codes, they will be very helpful in finding out what the problem is. If you have not had a tune-up done in a long time, you might have a misfire code stored, like a P0301 thru P0306. There is a list of trouble codes here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
There is also a list of trouble codes up in the FAQ section at the top of the 2nd Gen page, as well as firing order info. A misfre in a cylinder could definitely cause a loss of power, and maybe that is what you had mentioned in your first post about too much electricity in the cylinder.
Once you get the truck tuned up and the TB clean it might be good to have a fuel induction service done, like the BG or Ever Wear service you can get done at most good garages and tire stores. Or at the very least run a bottle of a good in the tank fuel system cleaner like Gumout Regane or Red Line Si-1, change the oil and filter and then do another bottle of fuel cleaner again in 3000 miles and change the oil again after running out that tank of gas. That is just my opinion but that TB is just plain nasty and the injectors might be in the same shape or worse, and that can cause misfire codes too. All of which can make the truck run bad.
Jimmy
The TB being dirty may or may not be the reason for power loss. It might be a contributing factor though. With the throttle plates that dirty, it makes it very hard for the TPS to work right, same for the IAC, but the IAC has more to do with idle than power, however if the IAC is that dirty it could possibly make the truck run bad. You could also have a bad MAP sensor too. Be sure to reinstall the MAP's vacuum hose when you reinstall the TB, and there is a vacuum hose on the front of the TB too, it could be plugged up and possibly causing a power loss.
When was the last tune up done? Maybe it is time for plugs, wires, a new cap and rotor button. Do the key dance - turn the ignition key from off to run (but do not start the engine) and back to off, do that 3 times, and on the third time leave the key in run. Any trouble codes you have stored will display in the odometer. When all codes have been displayed, it will say "P Done". If you have any codes, they will be very helpful in finding out what the problem is. If you have not had a tune-up done in a long time, you might have a misfire code stored, like a P0301 thru P0306. There is a list of trouble codes here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
There is also a list of trouble codes up in the FAQ section at the top of the 2nd Gen page, as well as firing order info. A misfre in a cylinder could definitely cause a loss of power, and maybe that is what you had mentioned in your first post about too much electricity in the cylinder.
Once you get the truck tuned up and the TB clean it might be good to have a fuel induction service done, like the BG or Ever Wear service you can get done at most good garages and tire stores. Or at the very least run a bottle of a good in the tank fuel system cleaner like Gumout Regane or Red Line Si-1, change the oil and filter and then do another bottle of fuel cleaner again in 3000 miles and change the oil again after running out that tank of gas. That is just my opinion but that TB is just plain nasty and the injectors might be in the same shape or worse, and that can cause misfire codes too. All of which can make the truck run bad.
Jimmy
I look at it this way my Dad was an Industrial mechanic massive production machines he taught me keep it clean and well cared for and it will last a long time be proud of your machines and show it.
To me a well-cared for car is a clean car inside out and especially under the hood.
You say it came that way but first thing I would of done was clean it up ASAP
Besides if your engine is clean you can see were a leak is coming from but if dirty it just blends in and you don’t notice anything till something goes wrong.
I was around a lot of gear heads that keep their cars spotless and that’s what I’m used to and is the norm to me.
To me a well-cared for car is a clean car inside out and especially under the hood.
You say it came that way but first thing I would of done was clean it up ASAP
Besides if your engine is clean you can see were a leak is coming from but if dirty it just blends in and you don’t notice anything till something goes wrong.
I was around a lot of gear heads that keep their cars spotless and that’s what I’m used to and is the norm to me.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Feb 7, 2012 at 12:52 AM.
No idea what the dark stuff on the back of the manifold is. Maybe it's gunk that somehow blew out of the IAC orifice, or maybe it is oil coming from somewhere in that area. It might also be due to a bad PCV valve. Maybe after cleaning the TB, you could replace the PCV valve and clean the top of the manifold too, then see if the stain comes back.
The TB being dirty may or may not be the reason for power loss. It might be a contributing factor though. With the throttle plates that dirty, it makes it very hard for the TPS to work right, same for the IAC, but the IAC has more to do with idle than power, however if the IAC is that dirty it could possibly make the truck run bad. You could also have a bad MAP sensor too. Be sure to reinstall the MAP's vacuum hose when you reinstall the TB, and there is a vacuum hose on the front of the TB too, it could be plugged up and possibly causing a power loss.
When was the last tune up done? Maybe it is time for plugs, wires, a new cap and rotor button. Do the key dance - turn the ignition key from off to run (but do not start the engine) and back to off, do that 3 times, and on the third time leave the key in run. Any trouble codes you have stored will display in the odometer. When all codes have been displayed, it will say "P Done". If you have any codes, they will be very helpful in finding out what the problem is. If you have not had a tune-up done in a long time, you might have a misfire code stored, like a P0301 thru P0306. There is a list of trouble codes here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
There is also a list of trouble codes up in the FAQ section at the top of the 2nd Gen page, as well as firing order info. A misfre in a cylinder could definitely cause a loss of power, and maybe that is what you had mentioned in your first post about too much electricity in the cylinder.
Once you get the truck tuned up and the TB clean it might be good to have a fuel induction service done, like the BG or Ever Wear service you can get done at most good garages and tire stores. Or at the very least run a bottle of a good in the tank fuel system cleaner like Gumout Regane or Red Line Si-1, change the oil and filter and then do another bottle of fuel cleaner again in 3000 miles and change the oil again after running out that tank of gas. That is just my opinion but that TB is just plain nasty and the injectors might be in the same shape or worse, and that can cause misfire codes too. All of which can make the truck run bad.
Jimmy
The TB being dirty may or may not be the reason for power loss. It might be a contributing factor though. With the throttle plates that dirty, it makes it very hard for the TPS to work right, same for the IAC, but the IAC has more to do with idle than power, however if the IAC is that dirty it could possibly make the truck run bad. You could also have a bad MAP sensor too. Be sure to reinstall the MAP's vacuum hose when you reinstall the TB, and there is a vacuum hose on the front of the TB too, it could be plugged up and possibly causing a power loss.
When was the last tune up done? Maybe it is time for plugs, wires, a new cap and rotor button. Do the key dance - turn the ignition key from off to run (but do not start the engine) and back to off, do that 3 times, and on the third time leave the key in run. Any trouble codes you have stored will display in the odometer. When all codes have been displayed, it will say "P Done". If you have any codes, they will be very helpful in finding out what the problem is. If you have not had a tune-up done in a long time, you might have a misfire code stored, like a P0301 thru P0306. There is a list of trouble codes here:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
There is also a list of trouble codes up in the FAQ section at the top of the 2nd Gen page, as well as firing order info. A misfre in a cylinder could definitely cause a loss of power, and maybe that is what you had mentioned in your first post about too much electricity in the cylinder.
Once you get the truck tuned up and the TB clean it might be good to have a fuel induction service done, like the BG or Ever Wear service you can get done at most good garages and tire stores. Or at the very least run a bottle of a good in the tank fuel system cleaner like Gumout Regane or Red Line Si-1, change the oil and filter and then do another bottle of fuel cleaner again in 3000 miles and change the oil again after running out that tank of gas. That is just my opinion but that TB is just plain nasty and the injectors might be in the same shape or worse, and that can cause misfire codes too. All of which can make the truck run bad.
Jimmy
I look at it this way my Dad was an Industrial mechanic massive production machines he taught me keep it clean and well cared for and it will last a long time be proud of your machines and show it.
To me a well-cared for car is a clean car inside out and especially under the hood.
You say it came that way but first thing I would of done was clean it up ASAP
Besides if your engine is clean you can see were a leak is coming from but if dirty it just blends in and you don’t notice anything till something goes wrong.
I was around a lot of gear heads that keep their cars spotless and that’s what I’m used to and is the norm to me.
To me a well-cared for car is a clean car inside out and especially under the hood.
You say it came that way but first thing I would of done was clean it up ASAP
Besides if your engine is clean you can see were a leak is coming from but if dirty it just blends in and you don’t notice anything till something goes wrong.
I was around a lot of gear heads that keep their cars spotless and that’s what I’m used to and is the norm to me.
I do it myself we have the cleaning booths in town they have been in every Town/City I have ever lived in they look like this look below.
They have 5 or 6 settings use engine cleaner setting or if you don’t see that use the tire clean setting unless it’s a brush that spits out the cleaner don’t use that.
Or buy a few cans of engine cleaning foam at the local auto parts store and use the high presser wash or rinse setting to get all the grease off.
Bring a few towels to dry things off like the sparkplug wires if the engine will not start.
Just stay away from the computer and large wires or clusters of wires.
Well Hello I just noticed you are from Costa Rica
I dont know if you have those booths in Costa Rica
They have 5 or 6 settings use engine cleaner setting or if you don’t see that use the tire clean setting unless it’s a brush that spits out the cleaner don’t use that.
Or buy a few cans of engine cleaning foam at the local auto parts store and use the high presser wash or rinse setting to get all the grease off.
Bring a few towels to dry things off like the sparkplug wires if the engine will not start.
Just stay away from the computer and large wires or clusters of wires.
Well Hello I just noticed you are from Costa Rica
I dont know if you have those booths in Costa RicaLast edited by 98DAKAZ; Feb 7, 2012 at 03:46 PM.
I do it myself we have the cleaning booths in town they have been in every Town/City I have ever lived in they look like this look below.
They have 5 or 6 settings use engine cleaner setting or if you don’t see that use the tire clean setting unless it’s a brush that spits out the cleaner don’t use that.
Or buy a few cans of engine cleaning foam at the local auto parts store and use the high presser wash or rinse setting to get all the grease off.
Bring a few towels to dry things off like the sparkplug wires if the engine will not start.
Just stay away from the computer and large wires or clusters of wires.
Well Hello I just noticed you are from Costa Rica
I dont know if you have those booths in Costa Rica

They have 5 or 6 settings use engine cleaner setting or if you don’t see that use the tire clean setting unless it’s a brush that spits out the cleaner don’t use that.
Or buy a few cans of engine cleaning foam at the local auto parts store and use the high presser wash or rinse setting to get all the grease off.
Bring a few towels to dry things off like the sparkplug wires if the engine will not start.
Just stay away from the computer and large wires or clusters of wires.
Well Hello I just noticed you are from Costa Rica
I dont know if you have those booths in Costa Rica
Well I cleaned the TB and zero win so I decide to took it to the mechanic and found that is something bigger it starts and fine but when rpm's goes to idle 3 pistons die so that wouldn't be good for my budget and the worst he haven't found what's the problem






