2004 Dakota..6th Water Pump...Help!
Professional
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Wa.
Could someone please explain to me (possibly in detail) why there is a lot of talk about eliminating the fan clutch on Dakotas?
Just trying to understand. I personally and respectfully disagree with this thought. They are put on vehicles for a purpose.
Please enlighten. Thanks.
Just trying to understand. I personally and respectfully disagree with this thought. They are put on vehicles for a purpose.
Please enlighten. Thanks.
Captain
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
From: PA
You have 2 fans. one is manual, one is electric. I think the primary application of the electric was for A/C, but, it is very effective, and operates on a thermostat, independent of the A/C. So, having a 4 lb fan/clutch assembly hanging off your pump isn't necessary in terms of cooling capacity of your fan.
Basically the only time you have issues with an electric fan would be at idle/not moving, hot day, and the fan fails. That is where the mechanical would come into play.
Also, you get a little less noise when you start the truck, maybe a HP or two, and less rotating mass will allow your engine to accelerate like 1/143rd of a second faster (trivial number for a trivial gain)
Basically the only time you have issues with an electric fan would be at idle/not moving, hot day, and the fan fails. That is where the mechanical would come into play.
Also, you get a little less noise when you start the truck, maybe a HP or two, and less rotating mass will allow your engine to accelerate like 1/143rd of a second faster (trivial number for a trivial gain)
Professional
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Another alternative would be to ditch the mechanical fan and upgrade the electic fan.
Champion
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,895
Likes: 35
From: Gilbert, Arizona
La what a horrid place to commute
I worked in Hermosa Beach and lived in Costa Mesa at one time in the late 90's this is how bad a commute it can be go to work takes 1 hour coming home same commute is 2.5 hours nasty crawling along at 10 mph on the freeway how fun an that’s not even in the heart of the nasty traffic of LA it gets worse.
Your Truck could easy get over heated by this crap
Your Truck could easy get over heated by this crap
Professional
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
I worked in Hermosa Beach and lived in Costa Mesa at one time in the late 90's this is how bad a commute it can be go to work takes 1 hour coming home same commute is 2.5 hours nasty crawling along at 10 mph on the freeway how fun an that’s not even in the heart of the nasty traffic of LA it gets worse.
Your Truck could easy get over heated by this crap
Your Truck could easy get over heated by this crap
Champion
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,895
Likes: 35
From: Gilbert, Arizona
LA is a nightmare at going home time
LA is a nightmare at going home time I am soooooooooooo Glad I dont do that anymore.
I used to get so angry sitting in my truck tired from work crawling along at 10 mph just to get Home with all the jerks cutting you off and pushing thier way into your lane.
Road rage is always in the back of your thoughts
I used to get so angry sitting in my truck tired from work crawling along at 10 mph just to get Home with all the jerks cutting you off and pushing thier way into your lane.
Road rage is always in the back of your thoughts
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I have a 2004 Dakota with the 4.7 Liter v8. Just today I replaced the water pump for the 6th, yes 6th time. I have replaced them 3 times myself, and the others have been done by a reputable service center I know. I originally replaced them with OEM parts, right from the dealer and that didn't seem to matter. I've had 2 OEM pumps 2 napa, 1 from Oreilly and today from Carquest. SO..I've tried different manufactured parts and that does not seem to matter. I've also used both new and rebuilt. Most of the pumps are blowing out the seals between the engine block and the waterpump. I have also had the pumps leak out the center from the bearing shaft area. I have tried using just the inset, formed gasket that most the pumps come with now. When that didn't work, I've tried trimming that down flush to the face of the pump and using silicone gasket maker. Does not seem to matter. I have followed the sequence of tightening the bolts that the manual recommends, as well as the recommended torque on the bolts. I did realize that I had a bad fan clutch and bearing which I replaced this time also, so this will be the first pump on the truck with the new fan clutch. However, most of the failures are not out the front of the pump bearing area, where you suspect it to be if the bad fan clutch bearing was blowing it out. All of my other pullies on the truck seem to be fine. I've checked them all. The tensioner for my belt seems fine also. The only thing I can think of is that there may be some type of problem with the engine block it self, where it is out of spec and not milled perfectly flat. However, the gasket should take up any of that play, unless it was so bad the gasket couldn't correct it, in which case the fluid should be pouring out of the seal.
I'm at a loss at this point. Has anyone out there had anything remotely close to this happen? I've never had this kind of problem with any other vehicle. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I'm at a loss at this point. Has anyone out there had anything remotely close to this happen? I've never had this kind of problem with any other vehicle. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Champion
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,774
Likes: 449
From: Atlanta
11 year old thread.
Anyway, if you have a used truck, you fall victim to the previous owners issues, or sometimes it's the current owners too. Some put RTV on when they didn't need it and next time they're using a razor blade, sandpaper, etc. in an attempt to clean the surface. Bad idea. Best way to remove it is to brush on straight gasoline and let it sit, then scrub lightly with one of those green scrub pads you use for dishes. Once there are depressions or gouges in the surface, you end up needing the RTV and some don't know how to use it properly. Firstly, use the coolant tolerant stuff, such as permatex blue. Assemble and very lightly finger tighten all bolts. Let it sit for 30-40 min so the RTV begins to harden, then torque it down, alternating in the proper sequence (look it up). Finally, let the truck sit for 24hrs before adding coolant. This gives the RTV time to cure.
Anyway, if you have a used truck, you fall victim to the previous owners issues, or sometimes it's the current owners too. Some put RTV on when they didn't need it and next time they're using a razor blade, sandpaper, etc. in an attempt to clean the surface. Bad idea. Best way to remove it is to brush on straight gasoline and let it sit, then scrub lightly with one of those green scrub pads you use for dishes. Once there are depressions or gouges in the surface, you end up needing the RTV and some don't know how to use it properly. Firstly, use the coolant tolerant stuff, such as permatex blue. Assemble and very lightly finger tighten all bolts. Let it sit for 30-40 min so the RTV begins to harden, then torque it down, alternating in the proper sequence (look it up). Finally, let the truck sit for 24hrs before adding coolant. This gives the RTV time to cure.