My Pic's

 

one more way to get better A/C this summer http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2151584

On a Toyota http://yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19530

Just be very very very careful not to get too close to any exhaust manifolds or this stuff will catch ON FIRE.

A fire fighter in Arizona said they get all too many car fires from this trick so be very careful.


And DONT put any on the High side tubing they get very hot and will catch ON FIRE also.

 

Things to think about before you do this.

An explanation on the cut off valve trick first how you adjust you cabin temp is by blending in the hot heater core air with the cool air from the A/C side that being said we all know how the blend door never closes all the way causing bleed over from the heater core. The Dakota has a notorious bad blend door and how it operates especially when your Dakota is 10 or more years old those rubber seals are dried out and deformed with use and the cable gets stretched out.

So by eliminating any hot heater core air in the HVAC box you eliminate any bleed over caused by a bad blend door by 100%

Now one bad draw back from this trick you now have no way to change your temp why because you can no longer blend any hot air with the cold air so slowing down the fan or putting it in econo mode is the only way to decrease you cool A/C air and I will tell you you can get your cab FREEZING cold ASAP not having any hot air to blend with the cold A/C air.

But in HOT AZ I don’t care in the least.

I forgot another way to regulate the temp now is rolling down a window and blending in the hot outside air yourself.

 

I'm gonna do it,.. Thanks a lot for the pictures & info.
I'm on my way to Lowes tomorrow! My black truck ROASTS
in the summer. While my air is ice cold, You can tell it's really
fighting the black of the truck. And yes, the blend doors do suck on
these trucks. I know, I've done the heater core on the thing.
Thanks again98 DAK.

 

years and years ago i did some swaps and i all ways had to watch the heater hose size. some were 1/2" and others was 3/4". i found a adapter that was 1/2 on one end and 3/4" on the other. i think the brand was everco. i have seen 3/4" hose on a 1/2 fitting, and it had a water leak, DAH correcton: i might have said 3/4, or 1/2, when i ment the other. i cant remember what the real sizes was.

 

Damn that's a clean engine bay. How nice it must be to live where all the roads are paved and it doesn't snow.

 

My next move is to get a good used complete HVAC box and do a complete renovation of it and get my HVAC back to new condition so all my HVAC problems vanish and boy am I sick of these problems already looked and found quite a few online from $50 to $150 but I do want the complete box and everything inside with vacuum attachments if possible. Install a new fan motor new heater core and A/C core and make my own foam seals get everything nice and tight like new.

 

Ok this is what I found out I read a ton of stuff on this some say use two valves one on each side but others say it’s not needed only one valve all you need to do is stop any water flow through the heater core so one valve is fine.

I looked at it this way what should be the hose that normally flows into the heater core is the one you should put the valve on but if you look at it a valve on the other side will do the same thing. My only concern was this keeping pressure in the system but it was designed to take these pressures so I don’t think it should matter either side as long as you have a good healthy heater core and hoses if either one is weak you could maybe rupture the heater core or a hose.

But the system is designed to work under pressure as is I don’t think it will cause excessive pressure by blocking the flow through the heater core.

If you want to feel safe one valve on each side should negate any pressure in the heater core 100% they are only $12 each.

I suggest doing your own research to calm any questions regarding this trick/tip I found a lot of info on it through Google.

Do this at your own risk come to your own conclusion and own it.

 

The older second gen Dakotas 97 to 2000 don’t have what’s called zero cabin pressure relief ports or vents on them either that or mine are blocked meaning if you are pumping in air using your A/C you are building up cabin pressure especially if you have the fan on high unless you crank a window down a crack to let that pressure out.

So having all your windows closed up is a bad idea even in the Hot summer you will find out your fan will pump cool air way better with a window down a crack you should even hear the difference with the fan with the windows closed up or one window open a crack.

Note this also puts strain on your fan motor with your windows closed up its trying real hard to pump air into your cab and these fans are not made to work like that very well.

I find I get cooler air using the outside air setting and not the cabin recycled air setting I’m not sure why but it’s very noticeable to me the Max cool setting is flawed in some way is all I can think of or maybe my foam is clogged up some on the cabin recycle vent.

 

yes that will work also just bypass the heater core with a splice and a U


I suggest if you do that flush out the heater core with fresh water.