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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 10:42 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by AnthonyMo
Have someone crank the engine while fine tuning the timing at the distributor (by turning it back and forth)
Des it try and catch or just turn? Any vacuum leaks?
No it doesn't even try to catch. I can hear the valves opening and closing, but there's zero signs of combustion. Not even the slightest bit of chugging. I looked over and haven't noticed any vacuum leaks - not to say there isn't one. But every time I've had those the motor would at least try to start before petering out, or at least idle like garbage.

Originally Posted by Tom A
Really sounds like it's 180 out. Stick your finger in the #1 plug hole and bump the engine until you feel compression. Then pull of the distributor cap and make sure it's pointing in the right direction.
I'll try to do that tomorrow. 180 out is the only thing I can think of that's left. I installed the cam and timed the engine according to the factory workshop manual because the cam I bought from Hughes didn't come with any instructions saying otherwise. I'll call them tomorrow when they open to verify.

Only thing I can think of is I've got the distributor and crank in the right place, but the cam is 180 out. The exhaust valve is open when the fuel/spark go off. No compression, no combustion.

I was just reeeaally hoping it wasn't that.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 10:48 PM
  #62  
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The cam can't be 180 out. It makes no difference. All you have to do is turn the distributor.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #63  
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Gotcha. I'll check that tomorrow pending rain. Spark timing looked right, though, when we checked it with the timing light.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 08:56 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by RhoadBlock
Gotcha. I'll check that tomorrow pending rain. Spark timing looked right, though, when we checked it with the timing light.
The timing will still look right if it's firing on the exhaust stroke.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 06:05 PM
  #65  
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180 out is why I asked for compression PSI up front. Leakdown gauge will tell you in a heartbeat too. 2 tools every engine builder should have. We didn't even put the compression gauge on the race motor when we built it, but all cylinders are less than 5% leakdown at 100PSI.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 06:10 PM
  #66  
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I'm a little confused how having the distributor 180 out would affect compression or leakdown.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 08:29 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Tom A
I'm a little confused how having the distributor 180 out would affect compression or leakdown.
I suppose that would be possible. I thought we were discussing cam being 180 out.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 10:04 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by magnethead
I suppose that would be possible. I thought we were discussing cam being 180 out.
The cam is 180 out every other revolution. The important thing is that the distributor is timed to the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #69  
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Well that was it. Rain didn't let up at all last night or this evening so I broke out my 10x10 canopy when I got home today. Flipped it around and it chugged. Rotated the distributor a bit and it fired right up. It's still not timed dead on, we'll do that in a bit. Revved it just a bit to start breaking in the cam and noticed a huge oil leak from behind the oil filter. Draining the oil now. Pop is heading out to pick up some oil for me and brakes for his car. I'll figure out why it's leaking, fix that up, top the oil back off, time it a little better and start breaking in the cam.

The electric fan seems to be working pretty well. I just ran it to a switch in the cab for now. I'll wire up the relay system later. I just want my truck back already.

Magnethead, thanks a bunch for all your help thru this build! And Tom, thanks for helping me nail down the 180* out issue. Once I get all the kinks worked out and the engine broken in and running good I'll be sure to get a few pics and vids up.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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Can't wait to check it out!
 
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