New to me 2003 Dakota
#1
New to me 2003 Dakota
Hey everyone,
I am finishing up all the details in purchasing a 2003 Dakota SLT 4.7 Quad Cab 4WD. Should be in the garage Monday. The truck has 108K on the clock and you would never know it by looking at it or driving it.
I was reading about the front end issues that seem to be the major problem with these trucks. This truck drives perfect. No clunking or noises or anything. At 70 it's just as smooth as 30. But I thought I would ask the details on this TSB/recall.
Pretty much the only couple of things that would need to be done are to replace a center cap and get a couple of key fobs.
I was originally looking at a 2005 but it had more miles, lots of front end issues and bald tires and for the same price. Personally I like the 2nd gen bodystyle better.
Just thought I would introduce myself, b/c I could be spending more time here.
David
I am finishing up all the details in purchasing a 2003 Dakota SLT 4.7 Quad Cab 4WD. Should be in the garage Monday. The truck has 108K on the clock and you would never know it by looking at it or driving it.
I was reading about the front end issues that seem to be the major problem with these trucks. This truck drives perfect. No clunking or noises or anything. At 70 it's just as smooth as 30. But I thought I would ask the details on this TSB/recall.
Pretty much the only couple of things that would need to be done are to replace a center cap and get a couple of key fobs.
I was originally looking at a 2005 but it had more miles, lots of front end issues and bald tires and for the same price. Personally I like the 2nd gen bodystyle better.
Just thought I would introduce myself, b/c I could be spending more time here.
David
#3
I also like the 2nd gen look best. There's a few of us on here that wear our battle scars proudly [for the most part].
Not sure how much the fobs will run you, but be prepared to shell. For a spare gray key cost me $85 I think and 90 minutes time at the dealer.
Things to learn: If you engine light comes on, do what we call the key-dance. Toggle it between off and on (engine off) 3 times and the codes should appear in the odometer.
Do a quick read-through on the FAQ. Even I have an article in there somewhere about fixing the key cylinder lock. There is a wealth of information on here, and no question is too stupid for a post, trust me (I've asked some stupid ones in my time).
Not sure how much the fobs will run you, but be prepared to shell. For a spare gray key cost me $85 I think and 90 minutes time at the dealer.
Things to learn: If you engine light comes on, do what we call the key-dance. Toggle it between off and on (engine off) 3 times and the codes should appear in the odometer.
Do a quick read-through on the FAQ. Even I have an article in there somewhere about fixing the key cylinder lock. There is a wealth of information on here, and no question is too stupid for a post, trust me (I've asked some stupid ones in my time).
#4
Thanks for the welcome,
I have one key fob, but it has seen better days. I see that Amazon has them for around 25 bucks and claim that they can be programmed using the original fob.
I'll get some pics up when I get her in the garage.
I haven't had a chance to read the owners manual (it's in the glove box) but is there anything special about engaging 4hi and 4lo? I've always had Jeeps that had a shifter to engage the 4wd. You KNOW when you get it in gear with that.
I have one key fob, but it has seen better days. I see that Amazon has them for around 25 bucks and claim that they can be programmed using the original fob.
I'll get some pics up when I get her in the garage.
I haven't had a chance to read the owners manual (it's in the glove box) but is there anything special about engaging 4hi and 4lo? I've always had Jeeps that had a shifter to engage the 4wd. You KNOW when you get it in gear with that.
#6
#7
i have a 03 as well 2wd though.. and other then water pump and now a/c compressor ive had no issues with it and i bought mine new from dealer with 3 miles on it.. now sitting on 129k miles but i will say i run synthetic oil so not sure if means much nowadays..
but welcome to the forums,
Schuey
but welcome to the forums,
Schuey
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#8
THanks again for all the replies.
I got the truck home and finally got a chance to get it on the rack and really go through it and check it out. As far as I can find the to-do list includes:
Ball joints:upper and lower. Dry boots and slight cracking but no popping or looseness in any of them that I can find. Can probably wait til spring.
Oil Drain plug: Overtightened by some jack$$$ and leaking slightly
Air filter: Bugs and leaves and dirt
Tie rod ends have grease fitting and are in good shape.
Checked all the cv joints, axle shafts etc. Everything seems fine.
Had a nice little bonus. The key fob that was on the key ring has 4 buttons. Two for lock and unlock, one with a pic of an engine, and one with a pic of a snowflake....Remote start system. Works perfectly.
Warranty for tires and new front brakes and rotors in the glove box. Rear rotors are so-so but will be fine for now.
I'll get some pics later this week after a good clay bar and wax and detailing.
I got the truck home and finally got a chance to get it on the rack and really go through it and check it out. As far as I can find the to-do list includes:
Ball joints:upper and lower. Dry boots and slight cracking but no popping or looseness in any of them that I can find. Can probably wait til spring.
Oil Drain plug: Overtightened by some jack$$$ and leaking slightly
Air filter: Bugs and leaves and dirt
Tie rod ends have grease fitting and are in good shape.
Checked all the cv joints, axle shafts etc. Everything seems fine.
Had a nice little bonus. The key fob that was on the key ring has 4 buttons. Two for lock and unlock, one with a pic of an engine, and one with a pic of a snowflake....Remote start system. Works perfectly.
Warranty for tires and new front brakes and rotors in the glove box. Rear rotors are so-so but will be fine for now.
I'll get some pics later this week after a good clay bar and wax and detailing.
#9
It will blink till you put it in neutral then take a second to switch