This is the axle I got from a 98 2wd Dak. Take notice that the spring perches are on the bottom.

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I carefully removed the perches from the axle.
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Once I removed the axle from the truck I laid it on the level ground and measured the pinion angle then using some jack stands, 4x4's and paint sticks as shims I matched the angle on the donor axle. I then measured the distance from the center of the axle to the inside of the spring perches on the stock axle and placed the perches on donor axle in the same location. I then matched the angle of the perches. Once I was sure everything was correct I tack welded them into place and remeasured. I then welded them into place and gave them a quick coat of paint to prevent rust.
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sorry for the repeat.

 

this is what i'm working with
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My awesome junkyard tailgate.
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You can see where the duct tape held the plexi glass window in place.
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Not sure whats going on here, perhaps a failed attempt at color matching the paint or maybe a smerf got shot and was bleeding out there.
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It has **** carpet under the seats, sucks you can't see it.
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rotten back seats due to failure of plexi glass window
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busted hose
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Thats all the pics I have so far.

 

Not so bad for the price. You can get new carpet for around 2-250. I ended up getting one for 147.00 but I was selling my truck and wanted to go the absolute cheapest route. Other than cutting all the holes yourself it wasnt bad.

 

I think I paid around 150 for the carpet kit, sure its the same one your talking about. I'm also going the cheapest route since I'm just fixing it up to sell. I'm just trying make some money until I start a new job. That and it keeps me busy.

It passed state inspection today. I didn't get anything done with the body work since it was at the garage most the day. I was able to figure out why the gauges were cutting out randomly. It had a bent pin on one of the connectors. I also got the rear window in, spent more time cleaning old silicone off it then I did putting it in. For the life of me I do not understand why people try to take the easy way out when it only causes more problem and ends up costing much more in the long run. You can pretty much find out how to do anything by simply typing it into google or watch a how to video on youtube.

 

I woke up sick, weather sucked so I got a slow start. Since it was raining I used that time to pick up the paint. As the morning progressed I was able to get started on the body work. Figured I'd give a run down of the basic tools i'm using. There are all inexpensive and I couldn't live with out. First a angle grinder, I like a smaller one like 3 1/2 or 4 inch. You can use flap disc's which work great at removing paint to cleaning up welds, cut off wheels for cutting out rusted out spots and making patch panels and grinding wheels when working with heavy gauge steel.
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Next must have tool is an air compressor. At the house I have this little Dewalt which does the trick for most small tasks and painting but if you plan on using orbital sanders and stuff you will need a much bigger one like a 60 gal or an 80 gal min.
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The third on my list is a mig welder. I have a big Miller at the garage but here at the house I have this little Lincoln Handy mig. It will more then do the job when it comes to most automotive work. I think you can pick one up for around $200 plus your need a gas tank so for about 300 bucks you got a nice lightweight welder. Do not use flex core wire when your doing sheet metal work, the welds will suck and your spend more time fixing blow outs.
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Some other tools your need would be a slide hammer, Hammer and dolly set, shrinking dolly or file, sanding blocks (soft flexible ones work best).

Here is a dent almost every truck seems to have.
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Since I didn't have enough room to use a hammer and dolly I decided to use a slide hammer. The way you use this is drill a hole in the middle of the dent, for longer dents you may need to drill a few about a inch and a half apart. The hole will depend on the size screws you will use.
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Screw the slide hammer into the holes and gently use the weight to tap the dent out. Be careful not to hit it too hard because you will end up with what i call a volcano. You want it to be not quite as high as the area around it. Once you have it close to being flush go ahead and remove all the paint so you have a clean surface to weld on. Next weld your holes closed. Dont spend too much time on a hole as the heat will cause the panel to warp, this is also why you don't pull the dent complete flush, when the welds cool the metal will shrink and if you did it right the panel will be nearly flush. Next clean up the welds with your grinder and your ready to feather it with some filler.
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Allow an hour or so for the metal to cool and finish contracting before applying filler, I took this just after I cleaned it up with the grinder.
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Other then that I was able to weld the holes in the bed from whatever was screwed into and started block sanding the front end. This afternoon I'd like to get the truck sanded and hope to have all the small dents and dings filled/feathered.

I should add that before you begin sanding you have to wash the vehicle, don't use a soap with wax in it use something like dawn dish soap then wipe it down with Prep All, you do not want to sand oil and wax into it otherwise your have issues with your finish.

 

Nice job!!! Where were you when I was doing the body work on my dakota haha

 

I just noticed your from Houtzdale, I"m from Morrisdale.

 

Small world. Well if you live there you prob know my buddy bo scott. Owns jrs out on 322 past the true value