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Dash light bulbs

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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 12:19 AM
  #11  
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I don’t think using other lamps would work well because there’s only one normalish lamp that’s burned out. The 4x4 lamp is soldered in place, and there are one or two hidden lamps deep inside the light switch box. The one easy to get to lamp (that was pictured) is pretty easy to replace with the train lamp.

Tomorrow, I’ll start with the 4x4 lamp that’s soldered on the board, and if I get it done in time I’ll start on the light switch. I’m thinking I’ll replace the one on the post with one train lamp and then take two more train lamps and run them into the guts of the light switch and see if they work.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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Got the lamp in the 4x4 switch - had to buy a small standoff for 20 cents:
IMG_1286_zps127d1a0d.jpg


Added the lamp to the post in the light switch (you can see the top of the post crumbled) and wired two other lamps to the power (you can see the wires):
IMG_1294_zps1c69f358.jpg

Closed up:
IMG_1296_zps61cfc4f2.jpg


I re-assembled evertying and later tonight I'll see how they compare to the other lights. I'm expecting them to be duller but visible. I also don't know how long they'll last.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 09:10 PM
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The lights are about as bright as the radio controls - which is OK. Now to see how long they last...
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 09:18 AM
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Why are you rushing in and making these off beat fixes and not just waiting for the correct parts ordering them?

I’m not getting the weird fix with bulbs that may not work or last
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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Well, as I indicated earlier I did look into getting the correct parts, but Chrysler doesn’t sell/have part numbers for any of these lamps because they say you have to buy the complete switches. You don’t happen to know the part numbers for the lamps that are soldered to the 4x4 switch, or the number of lamps and part numbers for the light switch? I did check the local auto parts store (and the dealer) and nobody had theses kinds of lamps. I did find similar looking lamps on the internet, but what are the specs of these bulbs? I assumed they are 14 V lamps, but how much current do they draw, how bright are they, and what is their expected life? Also I measured the height and width if the existing lamps (that I could access), and I couldn’t find exact matches for mounts/bulbs that I could access. Also, when ordering online there is a minimum order cost, some had a minimum order size (like buying 20 bulbs to replace 1), and overpriced shipping costs, for parts that kind of looked the same but I’m not sure they are correct. Also, in the light switch there are a number of lamps that are buried deep inside the switch and I was afraid if I took the switch apart too much that I would break it.

OTOH - the train lights are 14V (good), and 30 ma (didn’t know if that was good/bad), unknown brightness and life expectancy, but they were only $1 a piece. I wired them up and could even “replace” some number of burned out bulbs in the light switch without having to take the switch apart because I could reach the areas through holes in the switch. So for $4 for the lamps and 20 cents for the standoff I now know that the train lights provide a decent amount of light where I could put them, and if they don’t last very long I can shoot for light bulbs that have a long life expectancy and run around 30 ma, thought I’ll still have the problem of paying a lot per light bulb and difficulty finding lamps that aren’t too big.

I suppose if I didn’t care about the cost I could just buy some new switches, or as the parts guy at the dealership said, the lamp for the light switch will run you $85, but you get a free switch with it…
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 11:29 PM
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They look like normal bayonet base bulbs to me??
 
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:14 AM
  #17  
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There are maybe about 6 bulbs in the 2 switches. All of the lamps that I could access are soldered to circuit boards except the one bulb that illuminates the rheostat line on the light switch (it’s shown in the pictures). The base on that removable lamp is standard, but the length of the stock pod and lamp is a little non-standard (I couldn’t find one exactly the same), and I wasn’t sure of the draw/brightness of the bulb, but I do think that after replacing the old bulb with the train bulb I could find one that works well.

On the lamps that are soldered to the circuit board are bi-pin lamps. The problem with them is that the bulb/base combinations are really short compared to the ones I could find on-line. I think I would have to switch to wire terminal lamps, which I think would be OK.

On the lamps that illuminate the top edge of the light switch and the right of the light switch, it’s difficult to access them. I was concerned that I would break the switch getting to them so I simply hung 2 of the train lights behind the top edge for illumination. I didn’t see easy access to the right side of the switch.

It would have been great if they designed the lighting for the switches like the did for the dash (so you could easily remove the burned out bulb and replace it with a new one), but unfortunately they didn’t.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:38 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by joe002
There are maybe about 6 bulbs in the 2 switches. All of the lamps that I could access are soldered to circuit boards except the one bulb that illuminates the rheostat line on the light switch (it’s shown in the pictures). The base on that removable lamp is standard, but the length of the stock pod and lamp is a little non-standard (I couldn’t find one exactly the same), and I wasn’t sure of the draw/brightness of the bulb, but I do think that after replacing the old bulb with the train bulb I could find one that works well.

On the lamps that are soldered to the circuit board are bi-pin lamps. The problem with them is that the bulb/base combinations are really short compared to the ones I could find on-line. I think I would have to switch to wire terminal lamps, which I think would be OK.

On the lamps that illuminate the top edge of the light switch and the right of the light switch, it’s difficult to access them. I was concerned that I would break the switch getting to them so I simply hung 2 of the train lights behind the top edge for illumination. I didn’t see easy access to the right side of the switch.

It would have been great if they designed the lighting for the switches like the did for the dash (so you could easily remove the burned out bulb and replace it with a new one), but unfortunately they didn’t.
The bi-pins are LED's. Soldering iron tip fits conveniently between the leads, heat to 250F, and pluck out with pliers. Wick it clean and insert new LED. But voltage spec will be a guessing game...generally red is 1.8, green/amber is 2.1, white/blue is 3.2V.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:53 AM
  #19  
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No. The LEDs are fine. Look in my Post #2 at the second picture. The top clear lamp and the blue lamps are both incandescent bi pin bulbs. You can probably see the burned out clear bulb in the picture. The 3 white and red lamps are LEDs - they are all good.

As you can see in my Post #12 I didn’t have any problem de-soldering the old lamp and replacing it with a train lamp. I used a solder sucker to remove the solder from the holes/terminals (used up my solder wick).

The 14v 30ma train lamp works fine as a replacement, but I don’t know the rating for the longevity of these lamps.
 
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