if you guys remember me i rebuilt the 2.5 in my Dakota due to bad rings and a blown clutch disk, well i bought a rebuild kit, clutch kit, master cylinder and slave cylinder

The first time i ever went to move the truck, i stalled it because the clutch caught as soon as the pedal began to move id say it wasnt even 1/4 of the way out when i killed it, But from then on, it has moved Out to about 1/2 way, now its staying at like id say 7/8 of the way out to finally catch and grip 100%

and say i wanna get down on the gas pedal and punch it, i miss 3rd ALOT because it feels like it went in gear, but i then pull the clutch out to discover im grinding, then i re-engage to 3rd and keep going, and i have difficulty downshifting and i dont believe i had any of these issues with the old clutch, because the shift change has always felt TIGHT, so that to me seems normal

I Bled the slave cylinder until i couldnt get anymore bubbles, Since there is no adjustment, is there a possibility i Still have a little air left somewhere? Or is this how the clutch is supposed to feel? i had to pull the pedal out a great deal with the old clutch disk and P/P, but i would figure with a new clutch kit that the catch point would change

I Will admit the only thing i didnt do was surface the flywheel, my uncle claims that is why, but i seem to think otherwise

 

I think its your clutch assembly they were meant to be a closed system or a one piece assembly never separate pieces

Some info for ya

Pre-Bled clutch system; includes slave cylinder, master cylinder, and connecting line

This fully bled system includes a master cylinder and slave cylinder, connected by the hydraulic line. No additional components are required.

Application:
This system is designed for applications that typically include a pedal pulsation damper, but usually don’t include a conventional bleed screw. The design of these components makes conventional bleeding difficult and time consuming.

Advantages:
· Late model hydraulic systems require a variety of complex bleed procedures. Obtaining this information is challenging, and properly bleeding these systems is even more difficult. The bleed procedure on a dry system can take an hour or more.

· If the built-in pedal pulsation damper becomes contaminated, the system becomes nearly impossible to bleed. In addition, it is especially difficult to remove air from the damper. The pre-filled system eliminates these difficulties.

 

So i only pumped it for about 20 minutes, from a completely dry system, AIR!!!!!!!!!!!!! and i know the secret to bleeding it correctly, its a PITA, i really dont wanna do it, but i guess ill give it a try again and pump away, because i dont wanna buy the kit after buying all the parts seperate...

 

So i took it back out yesterday, and i accidentally pressed on the Master and popped the slave apart, i put the slavr back together, the clutch catch point changed, i have to pull it back out again because it feels like it did the same as before, and i think theres a little air left in the system, because its catching at about 7/8 of the way out, BUT This time its not hard to shift or put in Reverse

MY Solution that i had thought of, take apart the slave cylinder, submerge it in brake fluid, pump the master cylinder until all of the air comes out through the slave cylinder, then put the slave Back together inside of the brake fluid and Viola!...... No air right??