Complete rebuild $ question
'99 Dakota 4x4, 180K mi on it....Just had my 3.9 completely rebuilt. $1,600 for that, all new everything on the long block.
Having to hire a separate shop to do the swap.
Adding the following:
New radiator, water pump, all ball joints and bushings, new clutch ( including resurfacing the fly wheel ) new sensors, new motor mounts, hoses, alignment. Also replacing a keyless door actuator.
Mechanic just gave me a quote of $5,900 for parts and labor. That'll be $7,500 all in with the cost of the engine.
Can someone here "nay" or "yay" that $5,900 for me?
Thanks
Having to hire a separate shop to do the swap.
Adding the following:
New radiator, water pump, all ball joints and bushings, new clutch ( including resurfacing the fly wheel ) new sensors, new motor mounts, hoses, alignment. Also replacing a keyless door actuator.
Mechanic just gave me a quote of $5,900 for parts and labor. That'll be $7,500 all in with the cost of the engine.
Can someone here "nay" or "yay" that $5,900 for me?
Thanks
Last edited by Hanneman; Aug 13, 2013 at 05:01 PM.
found an EXTERNAL trans filter. add to trans. my idea is you will have to go in to internal much less.
man o man i about forgot yes its a cut & past sorry. __________________
after you clean the trans. add this to your*chrysler*trans. an external fluid filter
1. go to auto-zone. get 2210, its called a power steering filter, but it is for transs to. it is for 3/8 tubing. by (magna-fine) be sure to use high pressure hose. Reff:http://www.magnafilter.com
2. for other sizes wix 58964 5/16 tube size
NEW SUBJECT: .distributor moisture fix. Some chrysler distributor cap that has an air vent, needs to have the vent plugged. Best to use JB-weld. But there might be some brands that run air through as part of the system, dont seal them
__________________
man o man i about forgot yes its a cut & past sorry. __________________
after you clean the trans. add this to your*chrysler*trans. an external fluid filter
1. go to auto-zone. get 2210, its called a power steering filter, but it is for transs to. it is for 3/8 tubing. by (magna-fine) be sure to use high pressure hose. Reff:http://www.magnafilter.com
2. for other sizes wix 58964 5/16 tube size
NEW SUBJECT: .distributor moisture fix. Some chrysler distributor cap that has an air vent, needs to have the vent plugged. Best to use JB-weld. But there might be some brands that run air through as part of the system, dont seal them
__________________
I'm going down there later to look at the list.
1600 is for the actual engine swap.
Leaving 4300 for the radiator, water pump, suspension, actuator, clutch, and resurfcing.
Seems a bit high to me, too. Thought a total suspension would top out around $2,200. So 2 k for the rest?
Parts: Radiator should be around 200, actuator about 100, clutch...unsure, water pump 75, motor mounts 75, sensors (?). Can't see $1,500 in labor in there (after the suspension and engine swap)
Hmmmm
1600 is for the actual engine swap.
Leaving 4300 for the radiator, water pump, suspension, actuator, clutch, and resurfcing.
Seems a bit high to me, too. Thought a total suspension would top out around $2,200. So 2 k for the rest?
Parts: Radiator should be around 200, actuator about 100, clutch...unsure, water pump 75, motor mounts 75, sensors (?). Can't see $1,500 in labor in there (after the suspension and engine swap)
Hmmmm
Last edited by Hanneman; Aug 13, 2013 at 05:35 PM.
You've already paid to have the engine rebuilt, right? So you're providing a long block, & they will put the stuff back on it and install it. Just my opinion, but $1600 is pretty expensive for this. I'd ask around at other shops and see what the market price in your area is. But I'd say that well under $1000 (like $600 to $800) should do it.
Why are you hiring a separate shop to do the swap? Why don't you go back to whoever pulled and disassembled the engine? They may be charging you a "corkage charge" for providing your own long block--they didn't do the rebuild so they're charging you a markup. Be aware that there are warranty issues here--the installer will not provide any engine warranty, I'd guess.
As for the rest of it, labor for the radiator should be included, and a couple of hundred should cover the part, same with the water pump & hoses & $125 to $150 max. Motor mounts--whatever retail is (they'll mark up from a wholesale price) but they have to install motor mounts anyway, so that should be included, too
Ball joints & alignment shouldn't be more than $300, I think.
Door actuator, I don't know.
Sounds to me like the shop thinks they have a live one. You need to go shopping & find someone who will do it for say, 1/3 or 1/2 the $5900. In my neighborhood, $5900 is the price of a newer (by 3-5 years) Dakota.
Why are you hiring a separate shop to do the swap? Why don't you go back to whoever pulled and disassembled the engine? They may be charging you a "corkage charge" for providing your own long block--they didn't do the rebuild so they're charging you a markup. Be aware that there are warranty issues here--the installer will not provide any engine warranty, I'd guess.
As for the rest of it, labor for the radiator should be included, and a couple of hundred should cover the part, same with the water pump & hoses & $125 to $150 max. Motor mounts--whatever retail is (they'll mark up from a wholesale price) but they have to install motor mounts anyway, so that should be included, too
Ball joints & alignment shouldn't be more than $300, I think.
Door actuator, I don't know.
Sounds to me like the shop thinks they have a live one. You need to go shopping & find someone who will do it for say, 1/3 or 1/2 the $5900. In my neighborhood, $5900 is the price of a newer (by 3-5 years) Dakota.
Last edited by Brian in Tucson; Aug 14, 2013 at 11:18 AM.
Thanks Brian, I appreciate your replies.
First off, the machine shop does not remove or install. I purchased a rebuild from them. They deliver it to the mechanic that does the swap and I then get my core charge returned.
$1600 is absolutely the going rate for the swap, so I'm fine with that rate.
Now, as far as the rest. I went down there and priced out everything. What I didn't list in the post were things such as fuel injectors, idler pulley, shocks, crank sensor, and a dozen other "little things"...and my front and rear seal were both leaking, too.
The long and short of it is, I feel okay about the cost after reviewing it all. Yeah, mechanics mark up the parts...anywhere from 25-40% I'm told. There were only 2 items I felt were too high. $130 for the fan clutch and $135 for the actuator.
While reviewing I did get $300 taken off.
Practically a new truck that should easily last me until I buy a RAM in 2020!
First off, the machine shop does not remove or install. I purchased a rebuild from them. They deliver it to the mechanic that does the swap and I then get my core charge returned.
$1600 is absolutely the going rate for the swap, so I'm fine with that rate.
Now, as far as the rest. I went down there and priced out everything. What I didn't list in the post were things such as fuel injectors, idler pulley, shocks, crank sensor, and a dozen other "little things"...and my front and rear seal were both leaking, too.
The long and short of it is, I feel okay about the cost after reviewing it all. Yeah, mechanics mark up the parts...anywhere from 25-40% I'm told. There were only 2 items I felt were too high. $130 for the fan clutch and $135 for the actuator.
While reviewing I did get $300 taken off.
Practically a new truck that should easily last me until I buy a RAM in 2020!


