I upgraded the little womans brakes last night, I had put some raybestos rotors and quietstop brakes on there a few months back and they sucked. they overheated slightly and became mushy for some reason. So last night I slapped on some Power stop cross drilled rotors and performance pads... the same setup that's on my Ram... and wow what a difference. they still need to be broken in but the 1st 5 miles of seating them was pretty impressive for her little dak. (club cab).

we'll see how the rotors hold up as far as cracking goes...

 

sounds like a nice deal. just make sure you season the rotors properly to help limit the chance of cracking or warping.

from baer brakes

Rotor Seasoning

The first step in preparing the brake system for duty is to “SEASON� the rotors. The most visible effects are that of burning the machine oils from the surface of the iron and establishing a wear pattern between the pad and rotor. The most complex task it performs is that of relieving the internal stresses within the material. If you’ve ever poured water into a glass of ice, and noticed the ice cracking, then you’ve witnessed, first hand, the effects of internal stresses. The rotor casting and cooling processes leave the rotor with internal stresses.

By gradually heating the material, the crystalline matrix will reconfigure to relieve these internal stresses. After these stresses are relieved, the rotor is ready to accept the heat of bedding pads. Heating the rotors before they are fully seasoned can result in material deformation due to the unrelieved internal stresses in the material. This deformation may cause a vibration from the brakes. In order to prevent this vibration, all PRO-RACE+ rotors are trued before shipping.

Rotors need to be gradually elevated to “race� temperatures before any severe use. A “nibble�, or slight vibration, normally indicates rotors that were heated too quickly.

After initial “Seasoning�, when running your car at open track events or serious canyon carving, you should use the first lap of a session (or first couple miles of open road), to warm the brakes as well as the engine, gearbox, etc. Where an engine turns chemical energy into motion, the brakes turn that motion into thermal energy....and lots of it! And where there is no cooling system for the brakes as there is for the engine, and there’s not, the brakes could use the courtesy of a warm-up lap.

Remember to ALWAYS WARM THE BRAKES before any heavy use!

Seasoning procedure

1. Before you begin, please note: The following is a condensed version of of the Seasoning process designed for racing, where rotors are often replaced after every event. If your situation offers any opportunity to perform the Seasoning for Street & Track outlined on a separate instruction set, please do so. The most noticeable result of which will be dramatically increased long term rotor life.
2. Temporarily close any cooling ducts provided for the brakes. Note: New rotors should be “Seasoned� with used pads. If you are “Seasoning� a completely new system, this is not an alternative. Take extra care in the “Seasoning�’ procedure. Most likely, you will begin “bedding� the pads in the latter stages of the procedure. It is still recommended that you follow the 'Bedding Pads' procedures.
3. Make several light stops from 30 mph to ensure brake system is functioning properly.
4. Gradually increase brake temperatures with progressively harder, faster, stops.
5. Continue the process, through 10-15 stops, until the rotors have reached full operational temperature; about 1100°F.
Note: Accurate temperature paints may be obtained from Baer Racing.
6. Allow the brakes to cool, slowly, by driving easily for 10 minutes or so. The idea is to cool the brake system to ambient. Given the opportunity, let the system cool off over night.
7. The rotors are now ready for the next step in Preparing your Brake System, bedding pads

 

awesome info thanks! that is more or less how I get the brakes seated but after reading your info, seems like I dont take it far enough. I pretty much told the little woman to baby them for the 1st 500 miles and try to avoid heavy braking. So far she loves them.

 

I am the new owner of a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab 4x4. It needs new brake pads and rotors as the rotors are warped. steve00ram360 where did you buy your power stop rotors and pads from? Also did you buy the Power stop 911 Extreme Performance semi-metallic pads or another brand? How are the rotors holding up as far as the cracking goes? Thanks in advance!

 

got them from summit racing.com... cost was about $240 if I remember correctly. I also had to swap my calipers, the seals were pretty shot.

 

Thanks for your reply. I went ahead and ordered some cryo treated power slots and some Hawk HPS pads from truckpreformance.com and paid about $311 shipped. I might have paid $50 too much for the cryo treatmant but then again it will be interesting to see how they hold up.

 

raybestos pads suck we have to warranty them all day long