and it can't be more than 2 hours labor for a guy to drop the pan and open the valvebody to clean the mud out of it.

 

Made an appointment with a tranny shop. Told them it was quick to upshift and slow to downshift from 1-2, 2-1.

I'll let ya know what they say.

 

Tranny shop called me and basically said to check if there is a missing software update for the tranny. He said to make sure its not a computer or sensor problem before he opens up the transmission.

I'm 95% sure this isn't what is causing my issue. I told him the tranny got water in it.

He said that I don't want to go with pulling the valve body if I don't have to.

Going to call the dealer just to double check.

 

The 42RE isn't computer controlled so it shouldn't matter. The tech should have recognized this from prior knowledge. Any DCX vehicle with a SBC-based longitudinal V6 uses the 42RE.

 

It sounds like you need to find another trannie technician--one who can find his own **** with both hands would be helpful, eh? (Ending with eh? is me trying to talk Canadian!)

You replaced the sensors and solenoids once, after your tranny sucked the water, right?

Obviously, you don't want to or can't spend a bunch of money on a trannie rebuild. So here's some stuff to try. Drain the oil out and remove the pan--while you have the pan off, go get a transmission drain plug fitting kit from your local auto parts chain and install it. Makes it easier next time you need to take the fluid out.

Now while you've got the pan off, replace the filter. And remove the solenoids and sensors and see that their little screens are not blocked. You can spray them out with brake cleaner. They may have gone (or been defective) bad, too.

Now button it all back up and install fresh trannie oil to the proper level. Tell us what you find in the pan, btw. Bits of metal? Bits of clutch material? Water? Sand?

Hang in there.

This is the relatively cheap fix. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't and you'll have to get the trannie rebuilt or replaced. I've seen 42re's on CL here. I think a 46re might work, even. Some of the trannie gurus might be able to give you input.

 

This f****** truck. Aside from all my other problems this morning I go to start it and it begins leaking coolant, creating a nice stream down my driveway. I'm hoping its a hose and not my timing cover or water pump - I will scrap this damn truck if it is. Yea I'm that fed up.

anyway, Brian - loved the Canehdian reference.

Tranny shop didn't charge me cause they didn't do anything. I think what he was trying to say was to make sure its not computer related (pcm) before he starts looked into the tranny. He quoted me 4-5 hours of work to pull the valve body so I declined.

I brought it in expecting he'd at least drop the pan and all he did was check the fluid and make sure the TV cable was set up right which it was.

Anyone want to by a Dak? Meticulously maintained. 62,000 original kms... never been mudded...

 

Pulled the pan today and there was a bit of grime which I'm assuming is clutch material - I wiped it down and good news is that there was no sizable metal shavings, filled her back up with fresh trans fluid but didn't affect the way she shifted.

Found that the lower rad hose was loose and thats why it was puking coolant. Tightened it back up and filled it back up with more coolant... No more leaks.

Now for the fun part:

It's offical... I have zero luck with vehicles now... That 02 Corolla I picked up to get me around while I was swapping engines just ruptured a steel brake line... Climbed underneath to find that both steel lines running from the brake booster to the split at the rear is all corroded. Aside from that, 2 of the 3 fuel lines were corroded as well in one spot.

I plan to just buy the 2 whole pre-bent lines from the dealer.. they have both for $98 and $70 which is actually a phenomenal deal... That single piece of brake line I replaced on my Dak that was no more than 4 feet in length cost me $130. I cant afford having this car off the road because who knows when someone else will go wrong with my truck.

For the fuel lines I'm gonna find a way to cut them and splice in a rubber piece of fuel line where they are corroded and hope for the best.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Did you hit him over the head with a baseball bat?

Unless I'm missing something, it's held in with a handful of bolts. I don't think any internals have to be dealt with to R&R it.

 

This shop has a good name but I have no idea if 4-5 hours is what it takes. I don't know what pulling a valve body requires.

You have to realize that whatever it would cost you down in the states, you need to add atleast a 25 % markup. Parts are always 25% more expensive in Mooseland and labour normally is too.