P0320 No Crank Ref Signal at PCM-- a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor or a PCM problem bad computer or connection

P1294Target Idle Not Reached-- part of the top problem

The thing in the fan could be a hard fix unless you drill a big hole under were the fan is and try to fish the offending thing out but you just damaged the HVAC Box in doing so but fixable.

The problem is usually the only way to fix it is take the dash off that's the only way to get to the HVAC box to remove it.

A good look at the HVAC box out of the Dakota

LINK 1 LINK 2

 

This will show what's involved in removing the HVAC or heater AC box

LINK

 

Eh, I can deal with the rattle then. As far as the power. I'd just like to get it to do better than 65 in a headwind. But it's not a big deal. What is a big deal is that it seems to be only getting 18 to 19 mpg. From what I've read it should get up to 23mpg. and from what I can see I've got most of the vacuum leaks fixed. This is just gonna be a work truck anyhow. my runaround beater. But want it to perform as it should. I agree with the easy repairs. I've given it a good going over and there doesn't seem to be much to it. Coming from my GMC Jimmy that seemed to have needed a shoehorn to get that engine in there the room to move is a nice change.

 

Good

One thing I did that helped bring back some power is a engine flush actually two of them and then a good ring soaking with Marvel Mystery Oil.

The ring soak freed up a stuck ring how I removed all the plugs unplugged the coil then pored Marvel Mystery Oil in every cylinder around 2 OZ, hand cranked the engine a few times let sit a few hours then repeat I did this 4 times then filled one more time and let it sit over night.

Flush was with gunk

 

Thanks much. you've been a world of help already.

 

Use a funnel to get the Marvel Mystery Oil in as you don't want to wash any dirt down into the cylinder.

After the overnight put the plugs back and reconnect the coil and fire it up I had no smoke but you may.

You may want to leave the coil off at first then try to crank it to be sure all the Marvel Mystery Oil has leaked past the rings their should be non left inside but use caution you don't want to crack a piston or bend a rod.

One more note all that Marvel Mystery Oil will drop down into the oil pan you can run with it but best is to change the oil soon after.

 

Cage, I'm in mansfield, used to live in gainesville. The daks are fun yet challenging to work on. Mine has a V6, I wouldn't want the V8 because i like being able to see the ground from above the motor...the room the 2.5 yields must be nice....though it has no power.

 

I would also add to get more power to climb hills change out the rear diff gears to 4.10 or even 3.90 especial if hauling a load of any kind

 

definitely. And with a 5 speed, you won't lose very much mileage, if any. 5th with 4.10's would be approximate 4th with factory 3.55's or 3rd with factory 3.27's.

 

Well did some checks over the weekend. I fixed a few bad vacuum lines. But II still have only 16psi vacuum pressure. I can't seem to find any other broken lines. Gonna do a compression check next weekend. Though #1 will be a bugger, sticking the a/c compessor right in front of it....bad