Is this fuel sync something I should try?

 

I put through many bottles of FI cleaner, hoping that would clear up any problems, to no avail.

I'm not a mechanic, so I do not know how to reset distributor timing. I just know that was my problem. If you take it to a mechanic, wait until you have check engine lights again and do not clear them. Let the mechanic scan them and it may save some labor charges.....

 

If you can turn the distributor in one degree increments....

Does yours backfire through the intake at all? Mine does, and I'm pretty sure it's related to the left bank misfire. I haven't touched my fuel sync but I run alot of timing, I even took 10 degrees out through the MSD and it still does it, so i don't think it's related to that.

 

I have had no backfires through the intake that I'm aware of. When this all started my reader was throwing 3 codes out; misfire in multiple cylinders, cyl #1 misfire, and cyl #3 misfire. I've had the check engine light on twice erased both and haven't had it on since. And since it started, I've changed out Spark Plugs, SP wires, distributor cap, and distributor rotor. And I still get the clicking or knocking sound along with loss of power when I step on the gas. What would turning the distributor do, and how far do I turn? Could the distributor itself be my issue? How do I test it? Lots of questions sorry. Thanks guys

 

I wouldn't touch the distributor if you aren't sure what to do. going too far with make the PCM very very mad.

Are you on the brake when you hear the clicking? I want to make sure you aren't hearing the ABS solenoids, I can hear mine clear as day if I'm on both pedals.

Do you have a handheld temperature gun handy?

The last thing to mind would be pulling the left bank valve cover and making sure nothing has gone messy in the valvetrain. That was on my to-do list over spring break, but a computer issue tied me up for the last week. I switched to harland rockers 2 years ago and have never checked the lash or made sure the studs are tight since.

 

No, I'm on the gas and in town when it happens. It's fine on the highway It's almost like instead of shifting into the next gear it clicks, and loses acceleration. Transmission? I have a heat gun at work, what are you thinking?

 

Let me grab mine and I'll see what my exhaust manifold is. I know it's not as trustworthy as headers (we actually caught an issue on the dragster when I could lay my hand on the #8 tube with it running...on accident) but if 1 and 3 are colder than 5 or are cooler than mine, then you know you/me/both have an issue that more than just a misfire. Can also check bank to bank to compare. In our case, we had a clogged fuel injector on the dragster.

 

I haven't checked my injectors could that be an issue that would misfire multiple cylinders?

 

I have no idea but I'm definitely not ruling it out. I have no idea what a stock injector's service life is.

 

So I've kinda narrowed my issue down to a few things. Since my 2001 dodge dakota 3.9 v6 has been misfiring I've changed out wires, spark plugs, and distributor cap/ rotor. Tested spark from coil, I have good spark. Tested MAP and TPS sensor, both good. Tested fuel injectors for consistent ohms reading, good ( but could be clogged ). Cleaned the IAC of carbon residue ( will clean the throttle body probably tomorrow ). Cleaned out the engine with Sea Foam, 1/3 in vacuum hose, 1/3 in oil, 1/3 in fuel.

The money is dwindling and so are my patience. I've narrowed down the issue to a few things;
1) crankshaft position sensor, how could I test this, and what readings or signs am I looking for?
2) bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor.
3) cat converter
4) or worst case, my engine is shot and has no pressure. I don't have a tester so that will be the last thing I do of course.

Anyone have any other ideas or tests I could throw at it? Also, one of my last resorts is bringing it to a mechanic. There's two people I trust to work on my trucks and a mechanic is not one of them. ( bad experiences in the past )