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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 11:43 AM
  #21  
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Not sure if this helps with the 97s or not, but I got both engine running (not key on) 12v+ and a/c on 12v+ from the a/c relay (lower left) in the PDC under the hood. This is on my 99 Durango. I think the wire going to the fog light relay was constant 12v+, but I don't remember for sure now.




I also wired a switch in the a/c trigger wire so that I can keep the a/c from turning the fan on high while going down the highway.
 

Last edited by that_guy; Aug 23, 2014 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 11:23 PM
  #22  
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Thanks for the tip; i was actually thinking today about that relay and checking if it had constent voltage while ac was 'on' or if it cycled like the clutch or not..

Def. will check this out..


BTW what fan did you put on the durango
 
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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 12:10 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by that_guy
I got both engine running (not key on) 12v+
That's theASD relay fed, same as fuel pump and coil positive wire

and a/c on 12v+ from the a/c relay (lower left) in the PDC under the hood
That should cycle the compressor on and off I believe?

I think the wire going to the fog light relay was constant 12v+
Think that depends on the year. the coil side may be hot and switch side maybe controlled byHL switch or vice versa.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 12:31 AM
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97/98 should be more or less the same.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 10:13 AM
  #25  
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Today I'm going to do my searching as well as dry fit of the e-fan...
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 09:50 AM
  #26  
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**FACEPALM**

Well i started with the dry fit and seen that my calculation was slightly off.. whoops.. with the radiator offset more towards the front if i used the default tabbing to bolt to the frame there would bee about 1/3" gap from the bottom and decreasing as it went in so i opted to just cut the tabs in and have it flush mounted.

IMG-20140824-00324_zps58b0c026.jpg

IMG-20140824-00325_zpscb28e900.jpg

It only left about a 1/2" to need to seal up which i was going to use some sheet metal or rugger gasket; or heater hose flipped inside out to seal it up..

IMG-20140824-00332_zps97d404e7.jpg

IMG-20140824-00333_zps0d563123.jpg

So right after that I'm not sure when or if i just missed it.. there is a crack which discouraged me so i decided to put back my old fan in my shroud and hook it back up>>> I am currently in need to take my butt back out and drill some holes and mount this other shroud and see what it does..

IMG-20140824-00337_zps929d4dbd.jpg

I figure i can always if the crack gets worse i can goop it or something or i could even put a bracket there to keep it from cracking worse.

IMG-20140824-00336_zpsf3883876.jpg

Lastly here is my fuse box.

IMG-20140824-00334_zps02334ffb.jpg
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 10:03 AM
  #27  
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 12:59 PM
  #28  
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take some gorilla glue and coat the crack well.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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yeah.. Basically what i was thinking.. goop it.. best glue I've ever had the pleasure of using stuff is strong as all get up.. I've fixed Sub woofer cones and surrounds with it; and even glued back car parts and they all held up good.

For now though i got the upper two brackets i've been experimenting with in place and secured... next is going to be a brace that secures it from the bottom.

And i think I'm going to rig the top part for now to seal up the gap.. works pretty well actually... this will be for now just os i can see how this fan does.

IMG-20140825-00342_zps4c316b4a.jpg

IMG-20140825-00341_zpse967cdf7.jpg

Just some heater hose i secured on top of the rad.. should stand up to the temp there ok.

IMG-20140825-00343_zps8395f8a4.jpg
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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thats basically how mine is mounted, a couple metal flatstraps and thats it, holds up fine.

The front of your motor looks WAY TOO rusted up for a texas truck!

You might drill a couple holes in the shroud and zip-tie your gap filler in.
 
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