So i changed out the thermostat and found that the truck was not operating at normal temperature and now runs hotter and i get hotter air when accelerating and when i idle it is a little warmer but i still want to flush the heater core with a drill pump so i can control the psi going into the heater core. i plan on using radiator flush and use the drill pump ro keep a continuous flush going and see if that break anymore crap in there.

 

before you replaced the t-stat was the hear core lines and radiator lines hot to the touch?

Just had my heater core replaced and im getting luke warm air, and the system was flushed when replaced.

 

yes they were however the temp gauge never got up to temperature and the return line from the block to the radiator was extremely firm during the squeeze test even with the truck running for 20mins.

 

Does anyone know if simple green would be strong enough to use as well to use as a cleaner for the heater core

 

I think I would use a radiator flush product mixed with distilled water as needed to get the proper dilution.

 

so my worst fear came true, the heater core busted

 

It sounded like someone may have used rad leak on your system that's why you didn't get much heat as it was all plugged up with rad leak sealer.


Rad Flush and presto look at all the holes oh no didn't want that


People will do anything to sell a car with problems


Well at least you didn't get sold a Dak with a Blown head like that one guy did he got the shaft bad and then they shafted him again for the cost to fix it.

 

That sucks. Replacing the heater core on this trucks is no joke. Real PITA job.

I replaced a heater core in a 77 Monte Carlo years ago and swore to God I would NEVER, EVER in my lifetime EVER do a job like that again. Replacing the heater core in Dakotas is a very similar disasterous job.

You have to rip out the entire dashboard, that is loaded with wires, cables, tons of small screws and connectors. Then yank out the heater box, replace the heater core and good luck getting it all back together again! Oh, and plan to budget "at least" a whole day, two or three to do it. OR, you could simply write out a check to your local shop for $500 - $800. It's only $$$ right ?

"IF" my truck's heater core ever blows out here's what I would do.

#1) Sell the truck!

#2) By-Pass the heater core, buy a 1500 Watt Inverter and a 1500 Watt ceramic electric heater and call it a day! SERIOUSLY ! No joke!

 

yea i helped my friend do a 2001 durango and that has the duct work that goes behind the arm rest but yea we work on it for over 24hrs non stop.

 

I believe my truck's heater core is still partially plugged up AND it has a pin hole leak. It heats up ok (NOT hot by any means) and now everytime I drive it the windshield fogs up no matter the weather or temperature outside.

Funny thing is there is NO smell of antifreeze what-so-ever.

At this point, I'm pondering by-passing the heater core and going ahead with my plan to buy a 1500 Watt inverter and 1500 Watt 120 volt ceramic heater.