Hi everyone. I just got, a new to me, 2003 Dakota QC 4WD 4.7 Auto. It has approx 297500 kms, roughly 179000 miles, and I'm going thru fluid changes.

Front diff is done with a new pinion seal and 75w90 fluid.

Engine done but still has some odd noises which I'm still investigating. Runs great otherwise.

Now the trans, and from which I've done the searching on here about how people go about changing the fluid. I will be doing the obvious which will be the replacement of the filters but I'd like to get ALL of the old fluid out and replace with clean fluid. The trans is shifting just fine so I'd like to keep it that way,

What I'm really asking is: has anyone done the flush where they have taken off one of the cooler lines, run the engine long enough to empty the pan in order for it to be dropped and change the filters, then filled up the trans again with enough clean fluid to flush all the old stuff back out till the fluid comes up clean?

I've read about this kind of procedure being done to the 46RE trans but not to this one. I know just dropping the pan would only get out about approx 50% of the old fluid and I'd like to get all of the old fluid out.

If anyone has any thoughts on this just let me know.

Thanks!

 

I haven't done the flush method, but there are two tranny filters that you need to change and those require a pan drop. When I dropped the pan to install those, I also installed an aftermarket drain plug. Now I just drain and fill. If you do change the filters, use Mopar 5179267AC for the spin on filter. It has an anti drain-back valve that you won't find in the aftermarkets. The other filter is the strainer...I'd just back flush it with a garden hose and reinstall.

 

I'd be hesitant to do a flush on a high mileage transmission. Seen a good many with nothing wrong go poo poo not long after a flush. Can't prove the flush and refill was the culprit, but I don't luck f*cking with coincidences.

Drop the pan, get out all that will drain, replace the gaskets and do another drop and top off every 30k or so and you'll have mostly new fluid in there.

The only time I'd chance a total refill is if the fluid looked or smelled to have a problem...

 

You are correct Hammer......Draining by the cooler lines can lead to disaster....not checking the level twice or more after ANY fluid issues can lead to trouble. Dropping the pan and then topping it off a second time gets you a full tranny of fluid with little of the old fluid left.

Expensive stuff but worth every penny for security.

I had a service company and I used Dodge 318's Vans and pickups for many many years. Bought them at state auction generally with 100,000 miles on them and drove them another 125,000+ with no transmission problems to speak of. I had one with 300,000 and the tranny went out so I towed it to the junkyard. I recently had my 1990 pickup's tranny overhauled for $1200...I did that because I decided to keep this, my last Dodge truck. It has 350,000 miles plus and is still quiet, burns no oil, starts instantly and drives beautifully. Granted I have replaced a lot of things but in my retirement I have the time to play with this "toy" of a truck...wonderful trucks these 318 Dodges.

 

is there a website to find the right front pinion seal size?

 

(01 ram 1500 v6) Hey guys so I got an issue, I swapped an NV3500 5-speed transmission into my Dodge. It ran fine for a short time then the RPM kept jumping and or killing the truck. First thing I did was I disconnected the ABS module. It helped because I didn't plug my speed sensor in yet, Everything else is hooked up though. And when that didn't fix the problem I finally caved and bought a manual computer. Still having the same problem. I can't check my engine codes yet, I would have to be able to drive it a few miles to get the check engine light to come on. I think it's retarding the timing for up and down shifting but can't figure out what's making it do that. I would appreciate any advice you might have, thank you.

 

Couldn't agree more!