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So here's where I am at right now.
---------- Purchasing/Obtaining: I need to order the Altronics SHIFT module - 02/28 ? (Altronics Direct, $650) I need to pay for & pick up cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty - Sunday 01/08 ??? ($500 down, $700 due) I need to order a transmission crossmember from HiPoTek - Monday 01/16 ($250) I need to order the WEGO IIID and dual-reading gauge: http://www.veisystems.com/ws/wideban...o-monitor.html I need to purchase the remote water pump ---------- Labor Items: I need to fabricate a better mount for the switch panel - Subject to new center console (put inside?) I need to remove the factory cruise control switches and swap in my modified ones (shifter interface). I need to modify the bumper brackets and get the bumper properly mounted. I need to fabricate a mount for the remote water pump and ignition coil where the cruise control servo used to be. ---------- Stuff for V8 swap: I need to purchase an intake manifold - INDY MOD-MAN Magnum EFI Pkg - $1550 - May/June? I need to notch the rear chassis crossmember and route a mock-up fill tube from the factory fuel filler to the projected fuel cell location. I need to look at the throttle pedal and see what it will take for Morse throttle conversion. I need to get a scirocco aluminum radiator I need to fabricate mounts for said radiator I need to purchase an air hat for the throttle body to determine water inlet clearance. I need to figure out what i'm doing with the AC condenser I need to purchase a rotating assembly and request the company to balance it (likely SCAT) I need to take the block in for machining I need to add injectors 7 and 8 to the V6 harness, using the donor V8 harness. Extend the O2 extensions to relocate downstream O2's behind main cat [prepare for Y-pipe/pre-cat deletion) ---- First race is March 11th. I might have the truck usable by then with the V6 and glide. No idea. |
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MSD came already, as well as the audio adapters. There's a write-up on bypassing the factory inifinity over on dak-dur that I followed. The idea is to pull the factory amp and mount the MSD there.
Attachment 30111 Attachment 30112 Attachment 30113 |
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So apparently the same guy in charge of several other complicated bolts was also in charge of the infinity amplifier. It's held in by 3 13/32 bolts, and the top one is behind the blower motor. What a genius he was!!!!
Alas, I did get it out. Attachment 30104 Attachment 30105 Attachment 30106 Attachment 30107 Attachment 30108 Attachment 30109 |
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Got the 8 gauge cables made up, and ring terminals in the truck. Just need to throw my jacket on and wipe out a couple items on that to-do list. O'R didn't have 8AWG to 3/8 rings, so I had to get 1/2" rings. Should work just fine. Soldered the rings on all 3 cables. One of the fused leads is for the radiator fan. Picked up a 50 amp MAXI fuse for the cab power lead and 60 amp for the radiator fan.
Attachment 30102 Attachment 30103 |
topped the truck off with coolant (had no idea what mix was in it & top hose was dry) and let it run until the thermostat opened.
While it was running, I went ahead and terminated the 4 accessory wires going to the relay board, now they just need to be screwed to the terminal strip. Also got the 8 gauge wire ran through the door jamb. Going to have to fish it back to put the grommet on the wire and put loom over it, but at least it's ran. Getting around the CTM is always the hard part. I should be able to button all that up on my lunch break tomorrow. |
Got the 8 gauge cabin wire loomed, routed, and connected to the fender tap. Connected the accessory leads to the relay panel and ASD wire to the dedicated relays.
There are 2 ASD dedicated relays, one for the transmission cooler and one for the miscellaneous electronics in the cab (delay box, shifter system, extra gauges). Also got the infinity amplifier jumper installed and made sure all that works. Need to take a knife and cut the insulation away from the passenger footwell and figure out how I want to mount the MSD. Think I'll re-use the bottom 2 amp bolts, but that top one has me cursing the idea to re-use it as well. The balancer came in from ATI, as well as the O2 extensions from BBK performance. I need to measure out how long to make them, to reach to behind the main cat. |
Popped the rings off 4 of the stock pistons and put them back in. Unscientifically and with not-so-accurate gauging, I did 2 readings on each piston, front edge up front and rear edge in back. All 8 readings were between 60-70 thou in the hole, plus a factory 40 gasket. So the deck may not be as bad as some of the horror stories I had heard of massive variances. Being a 2002 block might help, having been refined over time.
The ATI balancer is going to be VERY tight to clear the timing mark. ATI says it won't clear, I think it might rub but self clearance or may just barely clear. We won't know till i try to put it on. |
Re-dead timed the engine using a multi-meter on the factory crank sensor (unhooked fuel pump relay), got the front sensor lined up (testing same method), and.....fire in the manifold and banged the starter. Now it hisses when running, like LOUD, shut it off immediately. Obviously I did something bad wrong, and ignited fuel in the intake. Not sure what the hissing is, much louder than just IAC. Not sure if it pushed a vacuum line off, damaged the starter (it spun over fine afterward with the fuel shut off), spun a bearing, or what.
I finished the wiring in the cab, cleaned the trash out of the bed, and worked on the MSD situation a little more. Think I have an idea of how I'll mount it, I notched the plastic kick panel for the fan motor and leads since it will be pushed out a little. |
Came up with a gameplan. Going to scrap the front trigger setup, and instead run a 1/4" midplate and flywheel spacer. That will give me the space I need to clear the GM torque converter bolts and keep the JTEC flexplate, and maintain starter gear alignment. That free's up a bunch of space up front and simplifies the pulley alignment issues I was fearing.
I loomed the MSD harnesses, just need to make the mount for it. The kickpanel is trimmed, so it's just a matter of bolt on and run wires. The access to both door jamb plugs is wide open, so getting the wires to the engine bay isn't an issue. The power steering is on hold until I get the PDC bracket, as I'm hoping to be able to mount the reservoir to said bracket. Once that's taken care of, then I'll go back to making the fittings work together. I also need to check up on making the return hose work. I decided to keep the Line Lock on the relay panel switch board with the water pump and radiator fan switches. I still need to figure up a plan for a shift light. One of the relay board channels will also activate the delay box, transbrake switch, line lock switch, shift light, and any other "race only" electronics. Another channel will go to the onboard air system, a small electric compressor that allows for airing up the tires after sitting in the staging lanes. My dad has a Jegs wishlist going, so i just bought some things off that, and put the retractile cord and ignition coil on the same tab, and overnighted it for Tuesday delivery to my work. |
Went by the machine shop, got a quote for $500 to Vaat, line-hone, deck, and bore .030 over. Not bad at all. It's an older guy that does things old school. Had a Kinsler injected 440 B/RB on the dyno, three Ford 302's in a row, a Buick V6 on the assembly table, and a Vortech boosted LS motor for an irrigation pump, set up to run on natural gas, sitting on an engine stand awaiting delivery. Apparently he's a well kept secret on off-the-wall builds.
Also, i just ordered the PDC brackets from Richard at HiPoTek. I just need to draw up a part in CAD, do some 1:1 prints, order material, and send it all to the laser shop. The ignition coil should be here this week, at which point I should have everything I need to be able to get wires ran and get the game plan rolling. I can pop the cruise control out and start on a bracket for the coil and water pump (which I don't have, but I have an idea of how it mounts). I can cut down the hydraulic hose on the steering reservoir and get that all mounted up next wheel when the PDC brackets arrive, get the power steering plumbed up. I'm seeking out junk AC compressor and alternator for mock-up purposes since the ATI balancer is here. I already have the tensioner pulley, so the belt on the truck now will fit (the P/S pump is my custom bracket that i can make fit anything). MSD box needs to mount with some aluminum flat bar, no big deal. I also need to hit a junkyard and see about fetching a durango center console, and swap out my jumpseat console. I was also tipped off to a mod of moving the EVAP canister from under the cab to behind a rear tire. There's no electronics, only hoses going to it, so it's a straight forward modification other than coming up with a mounting system. Laser Cutter: - Two Water Pump block off plates - 1/4" X 8"X 24" 6061T6 - One mid-plate spacer - 1/4" steel plate - One flywheel spacer - 1/4" steel plate Junkyard: - Dark colored hood - Alternator (mockup) - Durango Console ATI: - Spare Balancer Hub I also need to knock the weights off the factory flexplate. |
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So this has saved me from a pickle. I was trying to figure out how to run power, ground, and 3 switched wires in a 4-wire retractile cord. So i go pull up my favorite chapter of the FSM (8W) to find that there is a ground in the clockspring for the cruise control, as I had predicted.
Thus, I can use the 14 gauge wires for the transbrake power (in and out), and the 18 gauge wires to control the shifter system off the modified factory cruise buttons. Attachment 30090 |
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Soldered up the steering wheel button harness.
Have had several threads going on the Dakota facebook group, think i found a solution for my cooling system. 180 stat, drilled with SIX 1/4" holes (functional flow area of a 5/8 hose), bypass port in the intake plugged, and Tee the heater hose into the lower radiator hose using a custom TIG welded tee with 10AN fitting and 10AN push-lok connection. That will minimize the hydraulic load on the water pump, as well as the amount of hoses running through the engine bay. The motor mounts came in and I got them mounted to the block. What sucks is that one of the holes that the passenger side uses, is the one that has a bolt broken off in it (and 2 easy-outs in said bolt). So i'm going to have to weld up some plate to make it reach the other bolts. Minor setback, but oh well. I designed the crank flange spacer in CAD and did a test print to make sure it matches up. I also designed up a midplate, but it's too big to print. All I can do is measure mine to make sure it matches, and hope it works. I wanted to get some stuff done on the truck, but we found some big anomalies in the cylinder heads on the dragster, so we tore it down all the way. It's on a tight deadline to be done by February, so i'm taking the heads in for a rebuild on monday. Attachment 30078 Attachment 30079 Attachment 30080 Attachment 30081 Attachment 30082 Attachment 30083 |
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I couldn't find a crank flange drawing, so here you go, Google. Threw the adapter on my scanner and overlayed a protractor.
Chrysler Mopar 6 bolt crankshaft flange bolt pattern 3.4448 bolt circle, 7/16 holes, two sets on 60 degree spread, one offset by 35 degrees, and one offset by 45 degrees. Attachment 30077 |
First day above freezing, so i got some work done. Pulled the custom tone ring off and installed the PDC brackets yesterday, also cut the new power steering hose to length. Need a 12AN straight push lok, the 45 I bought won't work on the V6 (but it will for the V8). Pulled the cruise control servo off, and also cut and re-routed the transmission pressure line and pulled the remnants of the factory line out. I need to re-hose clamp it and put the shifter cable back on, but i ran out of "safe time" of dad being gone (field service tech, never know how long his calls are).
I intended to measure out the wire length to re-route the downstream O2's to behind the main cat, but I didn't get a chance to. Same with measuring the bracket to mount the MSD. But at this point, with the factory trans line gone, I can put the radiator fan back in and complete it's wiring (which is sitting on my floor). I also pulled the ABS solenoid wire off, so that I can start the process of getting those dummy loaded out. I also sent the CAD files to the laser shop and ordered the material. I just need to pick up the material when it's ready, and transport it to the laser shop. The 4x16 wire came today for doing the O2 extensions, along with O2 bungs and plugs and the band clamp. I just need to take it to one of our racers that TIG welds to put it together. Went ahead and soldered & heatshrinked the harness side of the O2 extensions. I measured out about 10 feet to where I want to put the sensors, I cut each bundle at 16 feet so I have plenty to play with. Labeled the colors on the O2 side so they it should all go back together properly. The local TIGer has no problem adding the O2 bung to the band clamp (it has one bung on it already), i just need to take it from him. Incidently, he's across the street from the speedshop that i need to get the 12AN pushlok straight fitting from for the power steering. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by magnethead
(Post 3319719)
So here's where I am at right now.
---------- Purchasing/Obtaining: I need to order the Altronics SHIFT module - Tuesday 01/03 (Altronics Direct, $650) I need to pay for & pick up cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty - Monday 01/09 ??? ($500 down, $700 due) I need to order a transmission crossmember from HiPoTek - Monday 01/16 ($250) I need to order a powerglide transmission - Monday 02/06 ($2800ish) I need to purchase an intake manifold - March/April ? ($600) I need to source/fabricate a 4150 SLE/throttle stop mount - March/April ? ( 4500 is 5.375, 4150 is 5.625 bolt space) I need to purchase a 4 barrel throttle body (probably Accufab, FAST's provider). - March/April ? ($600) I need to order the WEGO IIID and dual-reading gauge: http://www.veisystems.com/ws/wideban...o-monitor.html ---------- Labor Items: I need to design an an engine cradle that will balance the engine and also allow for the powerglide to bolt on I need to remove the factory cruise control switches and swap in my modified ones (shifter interface). I need to modify the bumper brackets and get the bumper properly mounted. I need to swap the steering plumbing over from the P pump to the TC pump. - Postponed I need to measure out the belt length for the power steering pump - postponed I need to wire up the radiator fan harness under the hood - Sub-harness already assembled, needs mounting and connection I need to fabricate a better mount for the switch panel - Subject to new center console (put inside?) I need to fabricate a mount for the remote water pump and ignition coil where the cruise control servo used to be. I need to design the I need to measure the resistive value of the ABS solenoids, and make a dummy harness for the ABS computer to not throw the dash light. ---------- Stuff for V8 swap: I need to notch the rear chassis crossmember and route a mock-up fill tube from the factory fuel filler to the projected fuel cell location. I need to look at the throttle pedal and see what it will take for Morse throttle conversion. I need to get a scirocco aluminum radiator I need to fabricate mounts for said radiator I need to purchase the remote water pump I need to purchase an air hat for the throttle body to determine water inlet clearance. I need to figure out what i'm doing with the AC condenser I need to purchase a rotating assembly and request the company to balance it (likely SCAT) I need to take the block in for machining I need to add injectors 7 and 8 to the V6 harness, using the donor V8 harness. Extend the O2 extensions to relocate downstream O2's behind main cat [prepare for Y-pipe/pre-cat deletion) ---- First race is March 11th. I might have the truck usable by then with the V6 and glide. No idea. |
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On the RWAL pinout, it is not published anywhere- even the FSM.
I get 5 ohms between pin 1 and pin 2, also between pin 1 and pin 4. Pin 3 doesn't seem to connect to anything, even when hydraulic pressure is applied. This implies that the 2 solenoids (assuming here) are 5 ohms, and draw 2.4 amps. I may see if I can score an RWAL module from a junkyard to take apart and see where the wires go. I can't play with mine much with ti still plumbed in. I got the radiator fan mounted in and it's harness plugged in to the fan, i just need to mount the relay, run the power & ground, and connect it into the factory harness. The ASD wire in my harness could probably be shortened by alot (green), I need to make a 36" extension for the water pump wire (red), and a TBD extension from the factory fan wire to the 70 amp relay coil (call it 60" in white and trim shorter). I have 1.25" spacers on the bumper brackets to move it forward, intention being to make room for the radiator to move forward 2" (plus the scirroco radiator is half the height of stock). I've not decided what I will do with the AC condensor yet. I also did not realize how tight the right front shelf is with the AC service line there, I may have to come up with a plan B for water pump mounting. I don't really want to mount it below the frame rail, but I may not have much of a choice, since it needs to be lower than the top of the radiator. I may or may not need the spacers when done, but i'm keeping them in place until I know. Attachment 30070 Attachment 30071 Attachment 30072 Attachment 30073 Attachment 30074 Attachment 30075 |
got the power steering pressure side hooked up, got some wiring ran, measured for new belt (60.5"), and loomed some wire. now off to run errands.
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Ended up with a 6K602 belt. It's a wee bit tight, a 607 or 612 would be better. Plumbed the power steering pressure sides, just need to get some 3/8 hydraulic hose and a barb to extend the return line to the can, and mount the can.
All under hood wiring is done for the moment. The switch panel/relay board is wired up and working, able to run the water pump and fan. Everything is loomed up, I just need to cut zip ties. Interior is almost inhabitable again now, with the radiator fan out of there. I have a center console picked out at LKQ that I need to go get, hopefully it is the kind I want, they wouldn't send me a photo. That would let me get working on the interior electrical. Attachment 30060 Attachment 30061 Attachment 30062 Attachment 30063 Attachment 30064 Attachment 30065 Attachment 30066 Attachment 30067 Attachment 30068 Attachment 30069 |
In a brief moment of thoughtfulness, I cut off a piece of the steel transmission cooler line and the rubber jumper i had on it, and used that to connect the return line of the power steering system. I just need to hose clamp said line at the can, fill it with fluid, and bleed the system.
And make a mount for the can, but that's not important, right? |
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I picked up an ABS module for $20 at the junkyard, and proceeded to dremel the living crap out of it. It looked like it had been snowing on the workbench.
Alas, the results. I'm still not sure if that sensor is supposed to be grounded or what. That's all that I can figure, but in default state it's not grounded. I'm going to take the pigtail and throw some resistors on it, and see if that makes the CAB happy. Each solenoid is measuring at about 5 ohms. the pressure switch on the proportioning valve is grounded when pressurized, open when released. It's an all plastic fitting, not a tapered pipe thread. I don't have a 9/16 socket in the house to bust the sensor out of the RWAL unit, but i'm wondering if it is the same. Both fittings appear to be 1/4" tube with 7/16" inverted flare nuts. Plan is to put an adjustable proportioning valve in place of the ABS module, remove the factory proportioning valve completely, and plumb a line-lock into the front line where the factory valve was. White - solenoid #1 Positive Blue - center sensor Black - Both Solenoid common Ground Green - Solenoid #2 Positive Attachment 30048 Attachment 30049 |
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Went to LKQ and picked up the center console out of a 02 Durango, to replace my center jumpseat/mini-console. Unbolted the main seats, laid them back in the cab, unbolted the center seat, then took each seat out of the cab. Grabbed the shop vac, cleaned the floor, put the console in, put a seat in, trimmed everything to fit, same with other side, then bolted everything down.
Plan is to put the delay box inside, and possibly the switch panel if I can make it fit. Attachment 30043 Attachment 30044 Attachment 30045 Attachment 30046 Attachment 30047 |
Well, I got the rear ABS solenoid housing pulled. Pulled the lines, cut the metric flares and nuts off, and replaced with english nut and inverted flare, and plumbed the wilwood proportioning valve in. Got everything back together, now the back brakes just need to be bled.
I'm going to see how it behaves after doing that, before deciding if I will leave the factory balance valve in place before installing the front line-lock. |
bled the brakes, 4 times on both side with proportioning valve wide open. Pedal is firm, but still cant tell how much rear braking there is. Took the RWAL valve apart and it was full of trash, so at least that part has been justified.
Now i'm debating if I should just say F it and take the factory proportioning valve out, or not. The truck is nose-diving hard under braking at low speed, like the backs aren't contributing very much. The push-through RPM did come up about 200 so there's some improvement. It just seems like there should be more braking power than there is. |
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Dad pulled the oil pan off the dragster while i was doing brakes on the truck. Also, a video from yesterday before I yanked the ABS module.
Attachment 30040 Attachment 30041 |
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So converting the front brakes to safety spec doesn't cost as much as I thought. I could probably do it for under $100, I can get the 3AN braided lines and the 3/16 hard lines locally. It's just a matter of doing it.
Attachment 30039 |
Dropped off the $1800 down payment on the transmission. $1400 for half-down of the trans and $400 for the mopar bell housing. Have a to-buy list going at Jegs to remove all of the factory brake components in the front circuit and replace with aftermarket fittings. Just not sure i want to pull the trigger on that $40 of goods.
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Looks like I will be needing to wire up 2 more relays, and get a pair of 9 position barrier strips.
Attachment 30028 Attachment 30029 |
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I ordered a 5 pack of 12 position barrier strips to match the other's I've been using, and I had a 16 position just paying around.
I popped the power outlet out of the front cover of the durango console, so i can use that opening to run all the power lines. I intended to get stuff done yesterday, but helped dad on the dragster instead. We're putting a 300 wet kit on it. The powerglide I'm getting should be about 27" tip to tail, compared to the 42RE at 37.5 inches. So I'll have to get the driveshaft re-tubed 10" longer. I did talk to Ryan, and our thoughts right now is to use a 2.5 bar MAP sensor for maximum resolution over the range that we will be using, which will restrict me to about 20 pounds of boost. Instead of going off into uncharted territory, he suggested that I look at plumbing in a 150 wet shot instead (which would really be more of a 75 shot pre-boost). He also suggested to use the INDY MOD-MAN manifold for a good combination of throttle response and high RPM boost-feeding. Considering that 4BBL M1's are going for $600 new or used, $1500 for the MOD-MAN including fuel rails and FAST throttle body isn't that bad, and having the larger plenum volume will allow for equalized fuel delivery at high RPM under heavy boost. Attachment 30018 Attachment 30019 Attachment 30020 |
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I went out and switched the steering wheel buttons and harness. After talking to Fred at Altronics, I'm going to make both wheel buttons be for upshift, and add a button on top left (hard to accidentally hit) for downshift. Reason being is that there's not a downshift lockout, so accidentally hitting that button can do bad things.
I haven't decided where I want to put the transbrake button yet, but I'm leaning towards on top of the wheel on the right. Attachment 30017 |
Got the wiring harness installed in the durango console and all the wiring ran out the back. Ran power/ground and the accessory wires.
Also tapped the reverse light harness, but have not tested functionality of it or the NS tap yet. |
Picked up the heads and cam from Mike Moriarty tonight, as well as the Mopar/Powerglide bellhousing. The holes on the midplate are pretty close but i'll have to drill 2 of them out I think. I won't know for sure till I bolt them together. I also have to see what the situation is with the starter. I'll be getting the transmission at our racer's banquet on Saturday.
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Picked up the bellhousing. The midplate i designed looks like it will fit, I just need to open up the dowel openings a hair to the inside. Bolt holes seem okay. I'll have to cut the midplate and notch the bellhousing for the crank sensor.
Also picked up a CC-1 delay box for crazy cheap ($100 with a $600 retail tag...somebody's trailer spare) which is awesome, so i wired it up. I have the dash torn apart right now so that I could get to the main harness for the reverse lights tap, which i've been too busy to check out. I need to get the retracile cord ran for the steering wheel buttons and test out the reverse light and neutral safety circuits before I can button up the dash. Attachment 29998 Attachment 29999 |
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I was able to test the reverse light and neutral safety taps today, verified that both work as I anticipated. Now I need to pull the steering column apart to do the wheel button cord, and run the wires for those taps.
Drew out the bracket for the transbrake button and completed alot of the work for the switch panel and delay box. Was supposed to pick up the trans at the banquet tonight, but things didn't work out. So off to plan B. I'll get it later this week, and take advantage of the spare time to get the V8 off the engine stand and onto a temporary fixture so that I can mock up the midplate and bellhousing and clean up any mis-aligned holes. Attachment 29975 Attachment 29976 Attachment 29977 |
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Got some more wiring done today. N/S and Reverse light wiring is done, got the modified wheel button harness in, ran the retracile cord for the wheel buttons, and mounted the downshift button (top right of wheel). I need to add a barrier strip down at the bottom of the dash, then run wiring from there to the barrier strip in the console. Also need to cut, drill, and place the bracket for the transbrake button.
Attachment 29942 Attachment 29943 Attachment 29944 |
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I'm exhausted. Long work day, got home, pulled the engine off the stand, got it down on cinder blocks, drilled out the dowels on the midplate (shave over 1/2" and had to oblong .05 inward), stabbed it on, trans was delivered, stabbed the belhousing on, and mated them. Marked where it needs notching for the crank sensor...and I'm done for the evening.
Attachment 29918 Attachment 29919 Attachment 29920 Attachment 29921 Attachment 29922 Attachment 29923 Attachment 29924 Attachment 29925 Attachment 29926 Attachment 29927 Attachment 29928 Attachment 29929 |
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Started with a 1/8" hole, then 3/8, then 1/2". Then took the sawzall to it. It's not quite deep enough, needs another tenth of an inch or so all the way around. Then I need to modify the midplate.
Attachment 29870 Attachment 29871 Attachment 29872 Attachment 29873 Attachment 29874 Attachment 29875 Attachment 29876 Attachment 29877 Attachment 29878 |
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More progress. MSD bracket needs to be drilled for mounting bolt. Midplate is ready for welding.
Attachment 29852 Attachment 29853 Attachment 29854 Attachment 29855 Attachment 29856 Attachment 29857 Attachment 29858 Attachment 29859 Attachment 29860 Attachment 29861 |
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Dropped the midplate off yesterday, got the call today that it has already been welded. I'll go grab it on my lunch break tomorrow.
Also drilled the hole in the MSD mounting bracket. Also got the dragster buttoned up. Needs some more things done, but we're close. Attachment 29848 Attachment 29849 Attachment 29850 |
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More progress. Mid-plate is done and just needs to be taken to powdercoat, bellhousing is notched, so that pretty much sums up the things I needed at this stage. All I need now is the shifter system and a torque converter.
Attachment 29810 Attachment 29811 Attachment 29812 Attachment 29813 Attachment 29814 Attachment 29815 Attachment 29816 Attachment 29817 Attachment 29818 |
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did a small amount of work tonight, got the MSD cabin-side wiring done, ran the MSD's serial cable, and mounted the transbrake switch.
Attachment 29783 Attachment 29784 Attachment 29785 Attachment 29786 Attachment 29787 Attachment 29788 Attachment 29789 Attachment 29790 Attachment 29791 |
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