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Starting the build process
Been tinkering here and there and having discussions with Shannon Morgan (Morgan and Sons race engines), flyin Ryan Hogan, Dick Murray at JW Transmissions, Wendell Dunaway (Mr. Wendell's Motorsports), Mike Murray and a few other Dakota race-only guys. Finally have something put together.
I do have a classifieds post for what I will not be using: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/user-cl...-part-out.html Picked up a junkyard motor last week. The cheapest known good engines were $650 and up, but I found a listing for $250: "needs oil pan, Pass Side motor mount broken". It looks like the truck took a direct hit to the right front, shoved the motor mount down shearing all 4 bolts in the block, and the mount punched a hole in the oil pan, breaking 2 panbolts off in the block as well. So I need to pull at least the two pan bolts, preferably the 4 MM bolts too. A little more than I planned, but should not be too bad. I pulled the tray out of the back seat to make room for the electrical buss system I will be putting there in association with relocating the battery to the bed. Also have the front of the truck shredded to work on the electrical up there. Motor is supposed to have 101,000 miles on it, but it does not look the part. When I pulled the pistons out, the cylinders are all clean with crosshatching except for #8, but I do think it will clean up with a very light hone. Going to be putting a powerglide behind it with the JW adapter bell housing and flywheel assembly. I should need to lengthen the driveshaft about 6 inches. Going to keep the 8.25 for now, but will have a dana 60 narrowed to fit- a 60 from a ram 2500 uses the same axle sensor as the 8.25/9.25 to keep the PCM happy. --------- It was awful nice of photobucket to shred apart the internet. I have relocated the photos to a Google Album. 2015-2016: https://goo.gl/photos/AvdM6DBFnZ9nFaaB9 2017 part 1: https://goo.gl/photos/FRnJnnHHfBxTfFbK8 |
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Some photos.
Tuesday when I got the motor, we had a tornado warning on my way home for a visual tornmdo about 10 miles away and I had a visual of the wall cloud, so I quickly shoved everything in the shop. Attachment 30885 Attachment 30886 Attachment 30887 Attachment 30888 Attachment 30889 Attachment 30890 |
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I'm guessing a orange motor ... ? 408 ?
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Originally Posted by LIZZRD
(Post 3291858)
I'm guessing a orange motor ... ? 408 ?
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Sold the stock cylinder heads, have the block down to the cam and crank left. Knocked the freeze plugs out so it will be ready for hot tanking and checking wall thickness.
Also took the stock battery tray out, and found all 500 sources of the various EVAP codes I was always getting. Got a marine battery box and put it in the bed opposite the spare tire, and got some 2 gauge wire to run to the starter solenoid. I'm going to relocate all of the EVAP stuff mostly out of view. I need all the space in the engine bay that I can get to fit the plans. The truck is in a mud swamp right now from the 8" of rain we got, so i'm using my phone camera to see what I have for "options" under the truck for routing "things". Attachment 30830 Attachment 30831 Attachment 30832 Attachment 30833 Attachment 30834 Attachment 30835 Attachment 30836 |
Looks good keep the pic's coming
A complete engine rebuild! |
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Squall line moving in, took a half day at work so I could get the truck done and get it in the shop next to dad's truck. Dragster is in the trailer, tow dually is getting injectors at a local shop. Even have a neighbor's car tucked in front of dad's truck.
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Working away at the budget. I'm only about $500 short of the deadline, plus or minus. I probably end up missing the Mopar show in DFW, but that's the better alternative to more debt.
I still won't share my exact plans. Only Flyin' Ryan Hogan and a few others know them. I'm hoping to have the powerglide bellhousing, flexplate, and crank adapter by mid June. Maybe a little more than that. At that point I'll be able to do mock-up on back of the V8 before having to pull everything off the back of the V6. I'm also exploring ways to remove the crank sensor completely instead of cutting up an SFI bellhousing. Goal is to have everything mocked up on the V8 with the complete transmission, so that I can pull the 42RE and driveshaft out, stab the powerglide in, and only have to measure for the new driveshaft. Green is the camshaft sensor, blue is crank sensor, and yellow is the coil wire. The cam sensor is a D shaped ring that is HIGH for 1-8-4-3 and LOW for 6-5-7-2. The crank trigger is LOW when material is present and HIGH when not present (windows). Same firing order as a chevy V8, which means the same 4/7 swap could be implemented into the camshaft, the injector wires would just need to be swapped/lengthened to suit. This would, of course, require that somebody made custom mopar camshafts. *crickets* The trick is making 8 crank pulses per half turn of the cam...which is 8 pulses per crank revolution, on 45 degree centers. The other option is to retain the factory sensor plate, and relocate the crank sensor an increment of 45 degrees. Do-able, but not easily. I have an O-Scope, so getting everything matched up wouldn't be a problem as long as I was close first. The good news is that I can rough-guess it by dead-timing the wheel. The bad news is that doing it on the V6 changes the counts....it has 6 holes on 60 degree centers, so the sensor can't be relocated to the same spot on both motors...deadtiming the V6 is much harder with it in the truck. Both blocks are 90 degree V8 and the crank sensor is right at 45 degrees. So 45 degrees of each bottom or straight down would equally work on V8. With the V6 being 45 degree dead-time but 60 degrees between windows, I'll only have 2 options. The big problem with that, however, is that I don't know if the stock plate will interfere with the torque convertor bolts. Attachment 30774 |
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More Crank sensor info:
The windows are 3/8" long and the ring has a circumference of 36.125 inches (11.50 diameter). 0.375/36.125 = 0.01038 0.375/11.50 = 0.0326 If I reduce that down to a 6.25" (19.635") wheel (to match an MSD crank trigger): 19.435 * 0.01038 = 0.203" window 6.25 * 0.0326 = 0.203" window I'm just not sure if I should do it on the plasmaCAM I have access to, or do it on a lathe/mill instead. Or rough-cut on the CAM and clean it up on lathe. Or maybe it doesn't care about the timing so much as having enough material removed to properly disengage the sensor (IE, only pays attention to the rising or falling edge) Definitely need more research. Right now I'm CAM-cutting some bumper relocation brackets to move the bumper about 2 inches forward to make more room for..."stuff". :icon_bump1: -------- Talked to Ryan Hogan and a few others. Looks like pulse width doesn't matter, the PCM is looking for a FALLING EDGE (end of the window/start of material) to trigger off of. In which case I can keep the 3/8" windows, but I need to make sure that I keep plenty of adjustability in the custom CMP sensor mount to be able to adjust where it triggers ref:TDC. In related news, two diff inspection shops said that neither Air Bags or ABS braking are required to pass inspection, as long as CEL is off. |
Here's the bulkheads I am using for the power feed-throughs:
http://amzn.com/B000VYHDQY Arlington LPCG757-1 Low Profile Strain Relief Cord Connector, 3/4 Inch It takes a pretty big hole (I'm using a unibit), but won't cut through the cable and has a waterproof inner seal. The 2 gauge won't fit through it with the inner seal in place so I took it out and just put the cap on for looks, but on the feed-throughs in the cab floor, I left them in place so they will seal up nicely with wire in them. I'm using a 12-way fuse + ground block ( http://amzn.com/B001P6FTHC ) and an sPOD Relay module I already had ( http://www.4x4spod.com/Default.asp ). I also have a small power strip that I will use for ignition-on devices. What is nice about the sPOD system is that it has an automatic voltage cutoff. When the battery hits 10.6 volts it shuts off, and it will not come back on until it sees 12.4 volts. So instead of leaving the radiator fan and W/P on and killing the battery like many times in the past, they'll automatically shut off. At some point I will put a second battery in, connected to the primary with a continuous duty 85 amp solenoid switched by ignition power (mostly for aux load with engine on and for alternator charging), but also connected by a ford-style external solenoid wired to the starter solenoid wire, so that the truck can start off both batteries. Idea being that the secondary battery is disconnected for engine-off loads, is charged with engine on, and is available at full power for starting. Also means that I can completely kill the primary battery, but it will have no ill affect to the secondary battery. Right now the plan is as follows: 1: Radiator Fan (also to PCM thermostat) 2: Water Pump (also to ignition on) 3: Racing Electronics (Delay Box, Dial Board, ect) 4: Open 5: Exhaust Cutouts (replace switch to DPDT Momentary) 6: Line Lock (replace switch with SPST momentary) |
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Got the fuse block and relay module mounted. Now to start the slow process of running all new wiring.
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Pulled apart the old electrical...thought i could re-use some of it...nope. Fuse block crumbled in my hand, i pulled the heatshrink and found this, in the section of wiring for the radiator fan. Definitely going to change something.
10 gauge wire and 3/8" connector. Attachment 30710 Attachment 30711 Attachment 30712 Attachment 30713 Attachment 30714 |
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Still working away at the electrical. Day job is shaky and the dragster has been keeping me busy, so I've been saving as much as I can and haven't had much time to do work.
While browsing manufacturer catalogs I solved 4 problems but created 1 new one...which is okay because i'll take one easy problem over 4 hard ones. Attachment 30687 Attachment 30688 Attachment 30689 Attachment 30690 Attachment 30691 Attachment 30692 |
I'm baaaack
It's been stupid hot this summer and i've been working my tail off or traveling for most of it. Work is still shaky & other things have come up so I haven't been able to spend alot money on the truck. But I do have quite the pile of parts here next to my desk waiting to get installed. I cut some brackets to move the bumper out 1.5", but found out some wasps decided to make a home in the trans tunnel along the way. It doesn't look TOO bad with the bumper moved out right now, from the side. With the grille on, it definitely shows a gap from the front. That's cosmetic, can be dealt with later. I did locate a couple replacement radiators that will fit, will just need to be converted to AN fittings, fairly easy to do. One is a 3-row from a 00-05 Toyota MR2 Spyder, Overall dimensions are 31" x 15". The second option is a 2-row from 92-96 Honda Prelude, overall dimensions 28.5" x 19.5". https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-...-radiator.html and https://www.mishimoto.com/honda-prel...nce-92-96.html Either option is much, much cheaper than getting a custom one made by Ron Davis, even though that would be ideal. They have a 22" x 13" aluminum radiator with fan ( PN 1A-1120P-1 ) for $680. Jegs has a regular Scirocco radiator (basically same dims) for $250 but uses regular hose instead of AN fitting. The radiator will be getting moved in front of the core support, behind the bumper and between the bumper mounts. I'm not sure where the condenser will end up. I may end up sticking it under the bed or something, or going to a much smaller one. The cooling system will likely get set up last. I have the relay sockets wired up to highly insulated barrier strips with covers, so all I have to do is mount them up. I also have an ANL fuse holder and 200A ANL fuse to go on the alternator wire. The steering wheel controls are pretty much done, other than drilling them out the back of the wheel to some wire coil to run down the column. While cruise is technically possible with the setup I'll be running, it's cluttery in an engine bay where I need every cubic inch I can get to shoehorn everything in. So I'm repurposing the switches for something else. I haven't figured out how i'm going to mount the battery box. per NHRA rules, it has to be attached to the chassis with metal hardware, so bolting the poly-box to the bed floor isn't enough. On the camaro we used 3/8" all-thread with nylocks to stud-ize it to the trunk floor. We didn't have them attached to the frame rails, so hopefully I can get away with it on the truck. I'm just not sure how I'll make it all fit. May have to cut a steel plate in a Z shape to go around the battery posts. Going to take some cardboard templating to sort it out. I still have a spare steering column in the truck, and there's some old stuff (like the broken stock airbox) that needs to get tossed in a trash can. Hopefully I can get back to working on it soon. |
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Truck moved itself today so I could mow around it. Let it sit and build temperature, thermostat opened and everything is still in good shape it looks like. Even with a weak battery, it started first try. Let it sit on the charger while I mowed.
You can see where I ran the battery main ground to the bed mount, right behind the exhaust. Factory Radiator opening is 28 wide and 21 tall. Rear tire carrier is 32" between frame rails and 24" front/back. About 12" available from bottom of the bed to bottom of the trailer hitch. Attachment 30433 Attachment 30434 Attachment 30435 |
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Got alot done the last 2 days. Still stupid hot, but not triple digits and 120+ heat index. Working inside the cab is horrible regardless though.
I got the under hood junction wired up, just need to mount the relay. The cabin junction has a home, I just need to screw it down. I installed the fuse holder for the 200 amp ANL fuse on the alternator wire above the rear axle bumpstop, since that's the only spot that will go unmolested once I go to a rear fuel cell and traction adders. Everything is set to connect the new wire from the alternator to the fuse holder, just need to get a piece of wire from holder to master switch. I also need to loom the wires going from the under hood junction to the coil hot wire (ASD relay) and the fan and water pump wiring. I also took photos of the bumper brackets. To fit a radiator in front of the core support, I wanted a little more room up front. So I plasma cut these brackets to move the bumper out 1.5" . The body lines aren't too big of a problem and can be dealt with later Background: NHRA requires the alternator to be wired directly to battery so that when the master switch is killed with engine running, alternator and battery are both removed from the power circuit. What this does, however, is make that alternator wire hot 24/7, switch on or off. So by putting a fuse there, allows a way to kill that wire when working under the hood, as well as a safety factor if that wire were to ever short to the frame. Attachment 30418 Attachment 30419 Attachment 30420 Attachment 30421 Attachment 30422 |
Picked out a fuel cell: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/j...6-nf/overview/
With the spare tire hanger/crossmember out, available room is 32" x 24" x 12" (to bottom of the trailer hitch, which is staying put for future use). This tank is 25 x 17 x 9 inches (16 gallons), which would leave me room to run a fill tube down to it. I'm partially thinking to go old retro mustang, and use a fold down license plate to cover the filler. Just not sure if it will work or not, one of those things you just have to mock up. I really don't want to go hole-in-the-bed style. Or I can completely lose my mind in trying to route hoses, and re-use the factory filler. Either way will require a custom welded filler neck that comes in parallel to the top of the tank, under the bed. Looking at going with an Aeromotive Fuel System plumbed in all 10AN (5/8") hoses and running on E-85. The FPC progressively pulses the fuel pump at low RPM to keep it from overheating when full pressure isn't neccesary due to low injector pulse width. Once RPM comes up and the injectors go to high duty cycle, the pump goes to 100% drive. Eliminator Fuel pump Fuel Pump Controller Pro-EFI Pressure Regulator HiPoTek 8AN Mopar Fuel Rails (Dual Feed Setup) Right now all I lack is 5 feet of red 4 gauge from the alternator fuse to the master switch, and running 8 gauge from the cabin fuse block to the alternator fuse block and grounding the fuse block's ground side. The transmission fan and water pump are wired up and the sPOD relay board is wired up to the cabin fuse block. The underhood harness needs to be connected to the sPOD and the ignition-on relays, and the radiator fan wiring needs to be installed (I already have it assembled on the bench). Then I should be able to put the radiator fan in. I removed the lines from the factory transmission cooler, plugged the lower port and put a plug in the top port with a 1/16th inch vent drilled in it...enough to vent any pressure differential, but not enough to let debris in. Once the new alternator wire is complete, I can remove the old one going to the PDC. That will remove the last piece of factory battery wire. The new 2 AWG primary and 4AWG charge wire should well outperform the factory 6 gauge primary and 4 gauge charging wire. Definitely shouldn't have any issues with spinning the engine over. With electrical done, I can turn my attention to the chassis and figure out a plan to remove the spare tire hanger/crossmember. I'd rather not have to remove the bed, though I'm told I may not have a choice. |
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Got the alternator wiring done tonight. Also ripped out the trailer wiring harness since I don't think this thing gonna be towing much anytime soon. It's a Hoppy PNP kit so it'll be easy to put back in when I want to. Next step is wiring in the interior stuff.
The only original wire is from the fender tap to the starter, which is OEM 6 gauge. I haven't got under the truck to see what kind of room there is, but i'll either go with 4 or 2 gauge. All the primary chassis wire is 2 gauge now, with 4 gauge on the alternator side and a short 4 gauge jumper from the fender tap to PDC. Attachment 30321 Attachment 30322 http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/...907_191650.jpg Attachment 30323 Attachment 30324 Attachment 30325 |
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Back to unemployed status, so no parts buying for a bit. Did thumb through the rule book though, and learned me a few things.
Attachment 30271 Attachment 30272 Attachment 30273 For a cage 42" tall (I'm guessing here), the 30 degree limit is an offset of { 42tan(30) = 24" } with a diagonal length of { 42/cos(30) = 48.5" }. This is important because I want my down bars to go under the rear window, preferably where the cab vents are from the factory (wouldn't that be convenient?). With the main hoop located just behind the factory B pillar against the ceiling, and the down bars attached directly to the main hoop, I think there will be enough room for the bars to go under the window. Also, because I am keeping a factory firewall, I am able to eliminate the lower windshield bar, and only run the upper bar. The trick is going to be fitting the forward bars with a functional dash in the way. I have not checked to see if it would be legal to run the vertical bar down in front of the dash on both sides, there is no mention of specific bar placement relative to the door opening or the A pillar. I will be able to retain a swing-out door bar, though. |
The back wall is 22" from the center of the seat belt tensioner on the floor, and the bottom of the window is 26" from the raised part of the floor. That gives me 40 degrees as a baseline. This would be a legal 8.50/150mph cage with streetable provisions.
Height = 40" , wall = 26" , floor = 22" ==> 57 degrees { tan^-1(22/14) } Height = 42" , wall = 22" , floor = 22" ==> 47 degrees { tan^-1(22/20) } Height = 44" , wall = 22" , floor = 22" ==> 45 degrees { tan^-1(22/22) } If I want to stay in the cab... Height = 44" , wall = 0" , floor = 22" ==> 26 degrees (not legal) Height = 42" , wall = 0" , floor = 22" ==> 27.6 degrees (not legal) Height = 40" , wall = 0" , floor = 22" ==> 28.8 degrees (not legal) Or if I want to just barely notch the bed for clearance... Height = 44" , wall = 4" , floor = 22" ==> 28.8 degrees (not legal) Height = 42" , wall = 4" , floor = 22" ==> 30.0 degrees (legal with no wiggle room) Height = 40" , wall = 4" , floor = 22" ==> 31.5 degrees (legal, barely) Or notch it further... Height = 44" , wall = 6" , floor = 22" ==> 30.0 degrees Height = 42" , wall = 6" , floor = 22" ==> 31.5 degrees Height = 40" , wall = 6" , floor = 22" ==> 32.9 degrees Looks like my best bet may be to go with 8 inches and notch the bed quite a bit to clear. That way I could still remove the bed if I wanted to, and the cab could still be lifted up on the cage to weld the top or pull the headliner. |
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I'm baaack. And i'm employed again, now by a local school district.
In effort of getting rid of the hideous P pump, I'm converting to a Type 2 pump off jeeps and LS/LT engines. The pressure side fitting is the same, but this one uses a remote reservoir. I'm trying to package it as far inboard and with a 0 offset pulley for maximum room on the driver side and in front of the block. I actually wanted to put it on the passenger side of the block but i'd have to have the remote water pump for that to work. I also have some 3/8" steel and 1/4" aluminum at the laser cutting shop getting some parts made. Hopefully when I get it back in 1-2-ish weeks, I can get it put on and start part 2 of this saga. I do still have some electrical to take care of, but there's not much left. First thing to do will be to get the crank sensor wheel mounted on the crank pulley/balancer assembly, then make a mount for the crank sensor. Hopefully that works as designed, and the engine will run. Once I know it runs, I'll finalize the sensor mount and take the factory rear sensor out. At that point I'll go ahead and order HiPoTek's new transmission crossmember and the mopar to GM bellhousing. I'll also take an upper radiator hose inlet and get it modified to AN spec with an onboard radiator cap, and get an AN fitting welded to the water pump block-off plate. At that point, I'll have 2 full puzzles to complete: Transmission and cooling system. I'll need to locate a new mounting location on the passenger fender for the remote water pump. The Scirocco radiator ( AFCO 80107) has both connections on the passenger side, thus continuing the theme of a vacated driver side. With all that sorted out, it will be a matter of getting a transmission mounted to the bellhousing and modifying the hipotek crossmember to match. Attachment 30261 Attachment 30262 Attachment 30263 |
Cylinder head bolt spacing is about 2-7/16" (62mm) and the new pump spacing is 80mm. Then it's a matter of finding out how far down to space the pump, and how much it needs to be set back towards the block.
Also, looks like I may have a problem spacing out the accessory bracket because of the heater hose tube off the water pump. May have to mock up and test the new crank trigger on battery only, then do the water pump conversion to complete moving the bracket forward for the alternator and AC. |
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Looks like it will actually be pretty damn close on fitment. Right now the face of the shaft is lined up with the front of the crank pulley.
Going straight down should work, but I can move it in a couple inches or so once the water pump is gone if I need the space. I'll have to see about getting it cross-braced once I get the primary bracket in. I'm using this old piece of aluminum scrap from the shop as a test jig, I have some 1.25 x 1/4" steel flat stock to make the mount with. Looks like there's 5/8" of room to work with off the centerline, so center of the 1.25 strap should "just" work. Probably cut it long to go down to the oil pan rail, then figure out a way to get it reinforced to the timing cover or something. I'm also talking to Kyle at New Era Racecraft about getting a bottom pulley arrangement put together. Attachment 30252 Attachment 30253 Attachment 30254 Attachment 30255 |
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Need to make a 1.75" on center bracket to go from the bottom timing cover hole (3/8" blind) to the bottom hold of the new bracket. Trick will be getting the end of it shaped right.
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The laser cut parts came in today. I'm quite impressed. I won't know if the crank trigger plate is true until I bolt it on. Being CNC cut and CAD designed, it should be.
I had the spacers cut with a 5/16 ID, I'll have to drill a couple out for the 3/8 bolts. But since some parts use 5/16, I defaulted to that. Attachment 30216 Attachment 30217 Attachment 30218 Attachment 30219 |
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Next piece of the puzzle is test-fitted. Still need to do some cleaning up on the bolt holes, but it's on there. Next step, accessory bracket spacers. Need to drill 4 of them out from 5/16 to 3/8 like I did the blockoff plate.
I have the underdrive pulley bolted up to the crank trigger wheel, but i need to machine out the inner bore of the tone wheel. I didn't account for there being a counterbore on the balancer. Attachment 30201 Attachment 30202 Attachment 30203 Attachment 30204 |
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Received a new accessory bracket from Dan P on the Dakota Facebook group, have a new timing cover coming from Scott B of the same. For whatever reason, both of mine had an ear broken off at the same spot. I've put a deposit down on Mike Moriarty's Iron Ram cylinder heads and cam, as he is upgrading and I'm am taking his hand-me-downs [He's a fellow north texas guy with a respectably fast stock block dakota].
At this point, all I need is to find an intake manifold and a 4BBL throttle body, and I'll have everything arranged for receipt except the rotating assembly and powerglide. I also have the bracket spaced out with the 3/8" spacers to account for the new tone wheel. ATI is instructing for me to run the #918605 Super Damper, SB Chrysler snout and SB Chrysler bolt pattern. The hitch is that it reportedly does not clear the factory timing mark (even though factory balancer is 7.25 and ATI is 7.0") and thus the mark has to be ground down. I'm still going back and forth with them on that front, as their chart is for the LA engine family and not Magnum. http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...amchrysler.htm As best as I can tell from some photos, the LA timing mark is significantly lower than the magnum timing mark. I had to go on California for all last week for emergency reasons, so this week's project is to pick up where I left off, and get the tone wheel mounted to the balancer and see if that theory works. I'm already exploring ideas to improve the design for the V8. Also talking to Richard at HiPoTek about his PDC mount, transmission crossmember, and motor mounts. Also, a note for myself, the LA mount tabs are 7/16" holes, 7/8" set back from the face of the block. Attachment 30162 Attachment 30163 Attachment 30164 |
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Originally Posted by GregZ@RaceMagnum
3/8" thick tone wheel. wow. way too heavy. could've used 1/8".
The wheel is fairly true, very little runout when I had it running off the factory sensor. The spacers I cut @2.25" aren't perfect off the chop saw so it has a little bit of fore-aft runout. I wanted to cut them on a lathe for consistency but I don't have ready access to one I dead-timed the motor and found that I just happened to get a spot that could line up without much modification. I just need to flip the wheel around backwards and out an 1/8" spacer under the sensor. The intention was to put it between the balancer and pulley, but it won't clear the water pump. Attachment 30158 Attachment 30159 Attachment 30160 |
Well, the theory has been tested. The IAC keeps hunting to keep it idling and sometimes i have to foot-feed it (especially open loop).
The CPS is from the junkyard motor in the garage, so I think it's way off. I hit it with a timing light tonight and it was firing at varying points in the gap and sometimes before the gap. I'm going to throw a new CPS at it and see what that does. Also going to grind down the nuts on the sensor a little bit to widen the gap just a hair, the sensor got hit by the wheel a couple times (also not helping). I know it looks like hell, but this is literally just a quick test. I still need to tidy up all the wiring (some of which needs to be re-done anyways). The tone ring is supposed to be behind the pulley, but since it wont clear the mechanical water pump, it had to go in front of the pulley. I also had to relocate the water pump drive up so that the power steering pump will have room for the pulley. |
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C&P from another thread, since this info is relevant to the build log :P
My buddy owns Steerco Performance/AGR Steering in Fort Worth. This isn't so much a plug for him as a quick chronicle of a research & development attempt. The pumps on our trucks are called "Saginaw P Pumps". They use a bronze bushing to support the shaft, which is usually what causes a leaky mess. The pump itself is fairly small if you remove the tank, but it's still pretty sizable. At his suggestion and my space requirement, I am converting to a GM / LS style "Saginaw Type 2 pump". It is MUCH smaller, is designed for either external or onboard tank, and uses a sealed roller bearing and coated vane pump to generate pressure. Mine is set up for 1250 PSI at 3 GPM with a .120 oriface as I recall. I'll be using a Jeep JK power steering tank PN 52126151AG and suction hose PN 68078355AF. I picked up the assembled pump on Friday and will order the mopar parts on Monday. The mounting ears are on 80mm centers, as it is designed to mount to an LS cylinder head with 5/16 bolts.Pulley I am using is 5.25", same as my underdrive crank pulley. GM PN is 10166383ABW , application unknown. If you have the stock 7.5" pulley, you will want a bigger pump pulley- the pump likes to be driven 1:1 with the crank most of the time, maybe a slight overdrive. The bearing is much more tolerant to RPM than the bronze bushing. Attachment 30131 Attachment 30132 Attachment 30133 Attachment 30134 |
Starting to get an idea of what will be going into all of this:
Stock block needs to be Vaated and sonic checked. May also have it decked, line-honed, and new cam bearings. Scat PN# 4-360-3580-6123-2 forged 4340 crankshaft $1,297.97 Scat PN# 2-360-6123-2124A forged 4340 H-beam rods $598.97 Cometic PN# C5554-040 MLS Head Gaskets $78.19 x2 and two choices of pistons: ICON PN# IC742-030 | 1.675 Compression Height , +9.60cc $626.97 ROSS PN# 99627 | 1.669 Compression Height, +5.50cc $689.97 Based on a 62cc chamber, the icons will give me a 10.3:1 CR and the Ross will give me a 10.8:1 . |
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Got the power steering pump mounted up. Takes a 3/8" spacer on top and 1/2-5/8" on bottom. Dug through my factory bolt bin and found a long semi-stud that fit well on bottom, needs some washers added as shims. Top took one of the 3/8" spacers i already had laying around. The 6-rib LS pulley lines up well with the 6 rib belt already on the motor. May step down to a 5 rib to be safe if I can get one the right length.
I re-dead timed the motor and still have not made progress with getting a happy spot for the front crank sensor. So I'm going to swiss-cheese the bracket in hopes that the gap stays the same across the range to move the sensor a few degrees to either side. I'm going to use another long semi-stud to play with it's position, then once i get it working I'll go back to a regular bolt. One of my friends has a Modis Ultra, so he's going to let me borrow it. Pardon my not-centered X's. I'm going to drill the holes much better than i drew them. Attachment 30128 Attachment 30129 |
further playing with the ignition system. The factory crank trigger is 5V/GND/signal, and the signal is pulled high by a resistor. When there is material present, it shows 5 volts. When there is a hole, it drops out. So I just need to tap the sensor on the truck to find a hole on the factory flexplate, and find a matching spot on the new tone wheel and swiss-cheese bracket to align just the same. The thought is that the transition from hole to steel is what fires the sensor, which would be the rising edge. I'll have to verify on the truck. The video on page 2 shows the exact opposite (normally 0 volts, pulled high on the hole). Once I get that part sorted out, I can make progress with other things.
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Did some poking around on Scat's site. Turns out they have 3 different cranks for the 360 block, the standard weight is external balance, the 2 lightweights are internal balance.
I can have Reher-Morrison or Morgan and Sons balance the rotating assembly, figure a couple Benjamins for that. Parts list below, figure out $2700 plus piston rings. I just sent an email to ICON for a piston ring suggestion. Probably be into the rotating assembly for $3200 or so. Going to buy the harmonic balancer on Monday, along with the MSD 6AL2-P 6530. Hoping to mount the MSD where the factory infinity amplifier is, on the passenger kick panel. That should give me easy access to the programming port and make for a short run to get to the underhood wiring (avoiding drilling and adding a grommet directly in the firewall, go through the doorjam instead...ideally). My January paycheck will go towards paying off the cylinder heads from Mike Moriarty, and February and March will get combined for the Powerglide and new driveshaft. 4-360-3580-6123-2 Lightweight Internal Balance Crankshaft - $1300 2-360-6123-2124A Rods, Rod bolts included? - $600 ICON IC742-030 +9.6cc pistons - $650 Cometic C5554-040 Head Gaskets - $80 |
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