steering rack replacement?
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steering rack replacement?
I have a 4wd 2002 Dakota Quad Cab. I believe the steering rack needs replaced. The steering is difficult when first starting truck and rock the steering wheel back and forth makes it easier when backing out. Once I do that it steers almost like normal. It is worse when the weather is cold. The longer it sits (days) the harder the steering is. The steering pump sounds normal and makes no abnormal noises. Fluid level is ok. Hoses are less an a year old (replaced because of a leak).
My questions are how difficult is it to replace the rack? Am I right? Raise front end, take wheels off, loosen the ends, remove the two big bolts, detach the hoses. Install new one in reverse? How about alignment? Where might I screw things up? What should I look for? How long of time should it take?
Autozone sells a new one for about $175. Looking to save money.
Any advise would be appreciated.
My questions are how difficult is it to replace the rack? Am I right? Raise front end, take wheels off, loosen the ends, remove the two big bolts, detach the hoses. Install new one in reverse? How about alignment? Where might I screw things up? What should I look for? How long of time should it take?
Autozone sells a new one for about $175. Looking to save money.
Any advise would be appreciated.
Site Moderator-Dodge Tech
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,724
Likes: 22
From: Nashville, Tennessee
My 98 used to do the same thing. I just ran with it for like 5 years...lol.
Yeah, it's the rack. They're easy, but you need to get an alignment done afterwards. Watch for cracks in the O-rings on the end of the lines where they seat in the rack. I can't remember if new ones come with mount rubbers or not??
Yeah, it's the rack. They're easy, but you need to get an alignment done afterwards. Watch for cracks in the O-rings on the end of the lines where they seat in the rack. I can't remember if new ones come with mount rubbers or not??
Last edited by TNtech; Apr 9, 2016 at 04:15 PM.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
I'd look to replace the pump also; also flush the lines that are left.
Your problem can be due to the pump seals inside failing (so it doesn't pump the pressure up), or the boost assist inside the rack failing.
In either case, you possibly have bits of seal floating around, and if you don't flush (and it's not a BAD idea to put an inline filter in there!), you can easily eat up the new parts.
As to alignment - folks claim to be able to align properly by counting turns on the outer tie rods (and I'd consider THOSE also while you've got it apart!), but I'd still take it in and get it aligned, even after turn matching.
When you remove the old one, and before you install the new one, make sure the rack bushings are in the new rack, and that if the old one has an inner sleeve, there's one in the new bushings.
I'd also consider doing poly rack bushings ( http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/5.10104 for one source), but those WILL require the inner sleeves off your old bushings.
Considering the prices at RockAuto and The Rack Doctor, AutoZone's price is outstanding IF it's "NEW". If, however it's "Remanufactured", that's an OK price ... but with what I've heard about Rack Doctor, I'd look at this instead: http://shop.rackdoctor.net/2000-2004...395-3880DK.htm
(As in I've not heard but one bad comment in several hundred reports, and that bad one was that they had to return the rack for the core fee ... I know, right?)
RwP
Your problem can be due to the pump seals inside failing (so it doesn't pump the pressure up), or the boost assist inside the rack failing.
In either case, you possibly have bits of seal floating around, and if you don't flush (and it's not a BAD idea to put an inline filter in there!), you can easily eat up the new parts.
As to alignment - folks claim to be able to align properly by counting turns on the outer tie rods (and I'd consider THOSE also while you've got it apart!), but I'd still take it in and get it aligned, even after turn matching.
When you remove the old one, and before you install the new one, make sure the rack bushings are in the new rack, and that if the old one has an inner sleeve, there's one in the new bushings.
I'd also consider doing poly rack bushings ( http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/5.10104 for one source), but those WILL require the inner sleeves off your old bushings.
Considering the prices at RockAuto and The Rack Doctor, AutoZone's price is outstanding IF it's "NEW". If, however it's "Remanufactured", that's an OK price ... but with what I've heard about Rack Doctor, I'd look at this instead: http://shop.rackdoctor.net/2000-2004...395-3880DK.htm
(As in I've not heard but one bad comment in several hundred reports, and that bad one was that they had to return the rack for the core fee ... I know, right?)
RwP
