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NEED AC - Heater Core Door - Blocking

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Old 07-03-2018, 10:31 AM
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Default NEED AC - Heater Core Door - Blocking

Hello,

You guys always seem to help me out with the problems I have with my 2000 Dodge Dakota.

My AC is not working. I just had it vacuumed and recharged. However that isn't the problem. They said the heater core door is not closing so although the AC is on...The heat is on too ..... So it's mixing together and not creating the cool air.

They said it's going to cost $500 to fix because they have to take the dash apart and while in there they want to replace the heater core and the Evaporator.

I know this wouldn't be the best option but for now....to stay cool....Couldn't I just block the heater core and then the heat won't be on it will just be the cool air?

If this would work could I do it in a way where the heater core hoses could just be hooked back up before winter to get heat back into the cabin? Am I crazy or will this work?
 
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Old 07-03-2018, 02:47 PM
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Yes a simple fix put a valve on one heater line to cut the flow of coolant to the heater core or bypass the heater core.

Amazon Amazon


I think the bard is 5/8 thats the heater hose ID/size only $12.


 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 07-03-2018 at 03:05 PM.
  #3  
Old 07-05-2018, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by fredster1022
Hello,
You guys always seem to help me out with the problems I have with my 2000 Dodge Dakota.

My AC is not working. I just had it vacuumed and recharged. However that isn't the problem. They said the heater core door is not closing so although the AC is on...The heat is on too ..... So it's mixing together and not creating the cool air.

They said it's going to cost $500 to fix because they have to take the dash apart and while in there they want to replace the heater core and the Evaporator.

I know this wouldn't be the best option but for now....to stay cool....Couldn't I just block the heater core and then the heat won't be on it will just be the cool air?

If this would work could I do it in a way where the heater core hoses could just be hooked back up before winter to get heat back into the cabin? Am I crazy or will this work?
Got tools and a willingness to take your truck apart? Pulling the dash isn't that hard (I've had mine out several times now), just time consuming.

This is what I wrote up for notes on mine (2001, 4WD, 3.9L V6 w/5sp manual). Yours should be similar, though you may find some minor differences. This doesn't match what the factory service manual for my '01 says, which is why I wrote it down.

Remove grab handles (4 x T27) and A pillar trim
Remove defroster grill from instrument panel (snaps)
Remove L and R end caps from instrument panel
Remove trim from rocker panels (snaps)
Remove trim from L and R cowl side inner panels (snaps)
Remove cluster bezel from instrument panel (2 x 7mm screws and snaps)
Unplug connectors for headlight, 4WD, HVAC, and Air Bag
Remove steering column cover (3 x T20)
Remove lower bezel from instrument panel (3 x T20)
Disconnect parking brake release handle
Remove floor console (1 screw)
Passenger side - disconnect radio antenna
Remove hood release handle (2 x phillips screws)
Remove data link connector (2 x 7mm)
Disconnect air bag connector from Airbag Control Module on transmission tunnel, behind shift lever
Remove 2 x Ground connections from drivers side transmission tunnel (2 x 8mm)
Disconnect two connectors for instrument panel from Central Timer Module (top and bottom)
Remove Ground connector (10mm nut) from stud on drivers side lower cowl
Disconnect brake lamp switch from top of brake pedal
Remove screws securing instrument panel wiring harness bulkhead connector (10mm)
Disconnect bulkhead connector
Disconnect wiring harness connector piggybacked on bulkhead connector
Disconnect wiring harness connectors from back of junction block (fuse block)
Remove connectors from steering wheel
Remove bolt (13mm) and nut (15mm) from steering shaft
Remove nuts (4 x 13mm) securing steering column
Remove steering column (be careful not to let it turn)
Loosten bolts (2) for instrument panel roll down (2 x 13mm)
Remove bolts holding instument panel to A pillars (L and R) (4 x 10mm)
Remove bolts holding instrument panel to ACM bracket (2 x 10mm)
Remove screws (5 x 8mm) from top of instrument panel (do the centre one last)
Roll down instrument panel - secure in place temporarily
Disconnect wiring harness connector to HVAC box
Lift and remove instrument panel (need two people for this)

That's your dash, now you can see the HVAC box. You'll still need to discharge the A/C and disconnect the fittings for that, and the heater hose fittings, and remove the half dozen bolts that are holding the HVAC box to the firewall. Then you can pull the box out to work on it.

There are a dozen or so screws holding it together. Remove those, and separate the halves. There are your heater core and A/C evaporator.

Having done all that, you can see why they're quoting you $500 and saying you should just replace the heater core and evaporator while you're in there. They don't want to have to do it twice. But, if you're doing it yourself, you can have the HVAC box out in a couple of hours. Reassembly is, of course, just reversing what you did to get it out. Easy. ;-)
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 08:28 AM
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Yeah, easy way is to install a heater valve. I would get one from the junkyard though. Understand tho, you will not have temp control. Just full cold (or whatever temp u set valve at) at any fan speed.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-install.html
 

Last edited by Dodgevity; 07-05-2018 at 09:12 AM.



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