Rumble/Vibration when turning left [Solved]
 

EDIT: Grinding was the wrong word, it was more of a vibration/rumble felt in the floorpan/seat. The solution ended up being a transmission mount, the rubber insulator had come unbonded from the metal allowing the transmission tail to free float. It settled on sticking out of the right side 5/8"~3/4" so it would make the noise when turning left and loading the right. My guess is putting more side load/angle on the drive shaft and making the U-joints clatter, or something else to tap.


Couple days ago, my truck began to have a bit of a grinding noise when turning left. Intensity seems to be dependent on how 'hard' I'm going through the turn, i.e. speed and sharpness of turn. I'm figuring it's a wheel bearing, I know my left front has a bit of a noise when braking, light scrape-scrape when slow, squeak-squeak when faster, mostly when warm. Even after new rotor/pads, so maybe the hub is warped?
I wanted to get some opinions on it, but I'm going ahead and replacing the left wheel hub anyway, been meaning to. When I got tires, the tire place broke a stud, they couldn't get another one to seat, so they put a new hub on the passenger side to fix it. Figured it's best to put a new one on the driver side too. Going straight or turning right there's no noise.

Taking a peak inside the center of the wheel shows a bit of nastiness, I'm not a good mechanic, but using my professional powers of observation says, this is not good; I'm assuming that baked grease is supposed to stay inside the sealed bearings.

Socket is 1-3/8 or whatever the metric equiv is. And yes, that grease should be inside the bearing.

Dont replace just one. The other wont be in good condition either.

I would hope the other one is still decent, as stated in my first post, it got changed already a few months ago. It has maybe, 5k miles on it max.

I missed that. You should be good then.

Update, had an adventure swapping it out. The actual work wasn't bad, everything else sucked. Went out for some loaner tools (my torque wrench maxes at 150 ft-lbs, and lacked a 35mm)... first place I stopped, they only had the needle style, not the calibrated clicker. Had to go to another place, they had the torque wrench, but not the individual socket, I happened to glance on their screen and notice a spindle nut 'kit' with 6 sockets, so rented that instead. $196 to rent the wrench and sockets, yeesh, glad I get to return them. Anyway, no problems getting the old hub off, and woo it was pretty toasted.

Here's you a fancy gallery of the old driver's side hub

The inner races were almost free floating with how wobbly they were, definitely no longer 'sealed' bearings either. Another snag, apparently the spindle nut I had purchased "direct fit" didn't fit... The outside diameter of the nut was larger than the inside diameter of the hub and a good 1/4"+- bigger than the one I took off. Did a bit of research, and it was the same part number for ever single place. Went to take it back, and just as a whim, I asked them to pull another one off the shelf, same part number and all: it was correct. The one I had bought before was apparently boxed wrong and was the wrong one. They just handed me the proper one and I went on my way.

Reassembly went without a hitch, took the loaner tools back for a refund. Making a left out of the parking lot aaaaand hello grinding noise. Sigh. Then my brain actually stopped and went "Duh" turning left makes the right on load, not the left, thus the sound is coming from the right side, the NEW bearing. So now I'm waiting on another hub and spindle nut. I guess they put some store brand hub on (I saw the receipt, they paid a little over $200 for it, didn't catch the brand) and it wasn't up to snuff. Oh well, I know the driver side obviously needed it, so it isn't technically wasted money, just wasted time. Looked in at the passenger hub, it's leaking the grease too.

as seen here

I use a 1-3/8" socket from Autozone/Duralast. 1 inch drive.

$200 is pretty steep for a single aftermarket hub. Maybe that was markup? I paid $154 for the pair of Timkens I'm now running. My guess is that they didn't properly torque it and that led to early failure.

Probably markup, and they also had it delivered. I'm thinking improper torque too, they only used a small impact to put it on as I recall. Timkins are what I'm putting on it, least I'll know they're right this time.

Here's a gallery of the passenger side hub.

Doesn't seem to have seals on the ends, hmm.. Also had shiny specks in the grease behind the wheel bearing.

HOWEVER: Problem persists... So $180 down, still at square one.... I can't tell if it's coming from the front or rear, so I don't know what to look at next. I don't want to think rear diff since it only happens turning left, but I'm not sure.

EDIT: It does seem to do worse when pressing on the gas, more force I'd assume. Crawled under the rear and popped the fill plug off the rear diff to check the oil, light foaming on the top (just got back from returning tools), but otherwise perfect level, right at the hole. Color was a light orange, didn't smell burned, no suspended flakes or trash, clean. Problem also seems sorta intermittent... After changing the wheel hub, went and did a couple left circles in the parkinglot, easily recognizable. However, trying it again during lunch break after returning the parts, couldn't get it discernibly happen, if it did, I couldn't really feel it/identify it vs regular pavement feel. I mostly "feel" it through the pedal and floorboard. As far as hearing it, I had the windows down trying to hear it during lunch, which of course, wouldn't really do it, so no identifying even which side, more or less front/back.

Just glancing over suspension parts, it does appear like my upper control arm bushings are toast, at least on the driver side. Got some pictures of the front only, couldn't get any pictures of the rear bushing on the upper control arms.

Driver's side
Attachment 128113

Passenger's side
Attachment 128114

I would think if this was causing it, I'd feel it in the steering wheel. Currently I just don't know.

control arms are more of a clunk, not a grind.

You've taken both hubs to 185 ft-lb, correct?

Just for shish, grins, laughs, and giggles

Put the truck in neutral with parking brake off
jack up only one rear corner
spin the tire and feel for any roughness
put that corner on the ground, jack up the other corner
spin the tire
any difference?

With one tire on the ground and you spinning the other, it should spin the driveshaft. This will isolate the wheel bearing for each side, the pinion bearing, and the spider gears and rear wheel bearings.

"Hypothetically" if it was something in the rear, it would make the same grinding at speed as it does when turning. *However*, if the issue is in the spider gears, it will only come to light when they are active, which is a differential speed situation.

*Note: will not work with the limited slip differential unless the clutch pack is trashed

Yes, both sides are torqued to 185ft-lbs. Amazingly enough, when I re-rented the torque wrench from autozone, it was still set where I used it last week, no one had borrowed it since then.
Fun that you should reply that, I was just about to edit my response to include this test. However, I did it a bit differently, by picking up the rear end completely. I tested spinning the tire from both sides either way as fast as I could and listened for spider gear chatter. I then had someone hold the opposing wheel and spin it in both directions, testing both sides as fast as I could spin the tires.

Everything, from what I could hear, was absolutely silent. The only noise made was swapping directions, and it lightly clicked one time as the gears changed directions. I'd assume if the spider gears were worn or had too much tolerance, it'd happen in either direction and not just one?

EDIT: On my way home today, I tried to take lefts harder than usual (most of the turns I make are rights though, go figure). I could just barely make out the noise. I used to be able to actually 'weave' in my lane and make the noise just barely audible/felt. No matter what I did today, however, I could not get it to be loud enough to really discern from road noise. Almost like it's just deciding to go away on its own slowly, I wonder if maybe it was caused by all the recent rain/possible mud. Also a better description of the noise is kinda like a vibration/dull tapping. I almost thought it was the bed rattling against the framerail with rubber between it (it's not a metallic sound). I hate when diagnosis is just "gotta drive it" especially on my way home I saw a Ram 1500 with a 45'd front left tire on the side of the road, obviously the lower balljoint snapped.

In your tests, did any of the combinations spin the driveshaft?

a vibration/dull tapping makes it even more un-pinpointable

When you pulled off your rotors were they discolored kind of black blue?

Because buy the looks of your hub they got cooked by dragging brakes dragging brakes create enormous heat that transfers into the hub assembly cooking any grease in the bearings and destroying the hub seals.

That's what destroyed my last hub lucky for me the hubs were due to be replaced anyway.

No discoloration or overheating. Both sides have even pad wear, still almost 1/2" material on both pads, both sides. I changed the pads and rotors about 6 months ago. I don't think the brakes drag, as I was able to remove the brakes and rotor almost immediately after I got to work, they were not very hot.

For now, diagnosis will have to wait, I just ordered me a cheap camera I can strap under the truck to try at least identifying front/back before moving on. No need to throw more parts at it yet

Back when you changed/replaced the pads and rotors do you remember the color of the rotors?

Dragging brakes wear normal dragging front brakes is a common problem with the Dakota not fully understood.

That hub in your pic's is cooked good it got extremely hot somehow.

The 98 Dakota has the worse disk brakes ever low quality small pads from 99 to 2002 they improved the front brakes considerably then from 2002 to 2004 they were improved again.

Only the 98 Dakota had crap disk brakes

My previous rotors looked fine as well, they were almost new looking (minus standard rust on non-contact areas, it wasn't worn deep in the pad areas), I just got a habit of doing rotors with pads anyway. However: for the drivers side hub, it does not account for the 170k the previous owner put on it. I don't know their braking habits, and it smelled very burned. The passenger side hub didn't smell burned at all, just the grease that leaked out was a little black. Worth noting that both hubs actually felt good before removal, no slack, no sound, or grinding feel when spun by hand. I might still have the old rotors, I have a rack where I work that I tend to just toss my old parts on and never really get rid of them.

Dakaz, I am not seeing the heat discoloration that you are. It looks more like rust to me.

Now I have an additional thing to fix... Drove the truck in this morning and someone carpooled with me. They said the sound was like a wobble to them. Figured it couldn't hurt to check the lugs, especially on the passenger right since it's the only one I've not had off recently, or tightened myself (last time that wheel was off was last time the tires were rotated by the tire shop). Both fronts have been done by me in the past week+ 'cause of the hubs. Driver left has been checked by me/rebuilt when I replaced that rear brake line (and replaced that wheel cylinder). So it's the only one I haven't messed with in recent months.

Tried to tighten them (they were torqued fine) but moved the truck a little.... aaand my truck sounds like a cheap motel bed. :I Everytime I gently rocked the truck, squeak, squeak, squeak. I've been having a light squeak/click during light braking (one reason I changed the front brakes/rotors on the front) yet never felt it through the pedal. I guess I finally parked it on the 'touch' section, and with the parking brake engaged, let it reach. So I know where that sound is coming from now.

Great thing is: I ALREADY have the brake kit and shoes for it from redoing the left. I just never got around to doing the right side. So at least I don't have to buy anything new for that, just need a warm day. I'm going to be a bit mad at myself, yet extremely relieved if I pull that drum and find say, an over stretched spring, unseated pad, or similar that maybe was flopping over the shoe on left turns and grinding against the drum.

EDIT: Another idea that came to mind (and would sorta explain why it only happens during left turns, and has quieted down a little) is maybe drum corrosion/rust. It been raining or drizzling almost every day for over a month, yet to see 3 days with no rain in a row since November. That could have caused a buildup of rust around the lip between the drum and backing plate, so when I do a turn and put load on the rear axle, it moves just slightly enough for the drum to grind against the backing plate. Would explain intensity vs hardness of the turn too, harder turn, more loading, closer and rubbing harder. I googled it and found a video on youtube from some ford channel explaining that very thing, he said it can sound like a wheel bearing going out and manifests during turns (for load shift).
I'm not very optimistic about either of these being the cause, but I wont know for sure until I take it apart.

Another bit of an update, since it's easy enough, I redid the differential test following magnethead's guidelines. Again, everything was absolutely silent. Tested both sides, spun as fast I could in either direction, and crawled under the center to do the test from underneath to be closer to the diff.

Here's a (horrible) video from the passenger side

I didn't bother recording the driver side since it was the same exact result. Theoretically, spinning the passenger side has the same effect as a left turn, the right tire has to spin faster. In this case, much faster vs a non-moving... :p The only thing I can think of that this test doesn't bring into the equation is the lateral load. While I did this test, I made note to check a few tolerances. Driveshaft backlash seems to be 1/8" or less of turn before it turns the tires. Could just be the add up between pinion and spiders from one extreme to the other? From what I've read this is about normal. I also tested moving the axles in/out, they move enough to be noticeable, as in you feel and hear a light clunk, but can barely make a visible notation, so maybe 1/16" lateral play? Again, a lot of forums say this is normal with a c-clip setup. (some say they have over 1/4" of travel, which to me kinda sounds bad). I also tried spinning from both sides pushing against the tire, and pulling it, all was smooth. Took a chance to look behind the passenger drum, doesn't LOOK to have any edge buildup, but I can't see past the lip.

Going to try to remember to throw the brake kit and shoes in the truck when I get home tonight and change it all out during lunch tomorrow. If the noise/vibration continues after that, I guess I'll have to wait until that camera comes in and record a video from under the truck. Its ETA is this weekend, but it'll be raining, so I can't do the test.

EDIT: On the way home we formulated an idea that was closer cause the sound actually really presented itself. He mentioned something about wheel hop, but I thought it was closer to a dull rumble strip sound/feel.

Well, you've narrowed it down... Pull that drum and see what you find.

There aren't many options left...

Parking brake hardware failure?

I hate drum brakes... Always with the issues, also I hate drum brakes.

Anyway, after fighting with the drum to get it off from rust around the center... Initial inspection is actually quite good. Besides some dust covering everything as expected, the shoes were still in great shape.

Gallery of images, last two are afters.

Swapped in the kit, had a hell of a fight getting it all back in. Drum doesn't fit. Double check everything, make sure adjusters are closed all the way, etc. Same issue I had on the left side before. Tried sanding the shoes a bit before giving up and putting one of the old shoes back on. The pads on the new shoes are too thick. The old shoe still had 3/16" and the new ones were 1/4" so works for me.

Resolution? None. Everything is still as it was.... Grabbed a picture of my upper and lower balljoints on the passenger side while I was thinking about it to get opinions. I know it would have been better to take the wheel off, but it's 25 degrees, I'm frustrated, and didn't want to.

JointBalls

Idea now is rattling balljoints? I really don't want to think it's an axle bearing. Still waiting on that camera to arrive to record under the truck.

EDIT: I've pretty much resigned myself to replacing the axle bearings by now, doesn't seem too hard, just annoying. Since it seems to only complain while under load, I'll say it's still safe enough for light duty (i.e. haul trash) just not daily driver/long distance. If it starts rumbling while going straight, that'll stop as well. Gonna wait for a bit warmer weather before pulling the axles and changing those bearings.

Speaking of, bearings... bearings everywhere! Now there's a high pitch whine coming from the front of the engine between 900-1500RPM, around 2k it's gone. Seems to dissipate after the truck warms up enough to transfer heat into the pulleys. I'm hoping for idler pully or even tensioner pulley, as long as it isn't my alternator or water pump. I'll get a recording of this either tomorrow or this weekend, see what you guys think.

shocks and shock mounts OK? no evidence that they have bleed out?

Suspension parts seem fine..

Opinion Request: I'm planning on doing the rear axle bearings as the next step... Doesn't seem to hard, just annoying. My question to you is:

1: Bearings + seals
or
2: SKF repair bearing?

I don't know the condition of my axle and I prefer having the parts before digging into it to reduce any chance of contamination by letting it sit (I don't have a garage or anywhere I can leave it until parts show up). Should it be alright with just bearings and seals, or should I just opt for the repair bearing?

Well, my cheap camera came in finally and I managed videos this morning. Land it on my luck to get a chinese knockoff of a chinese knockoff, truly astounding. Snagged an SQ11 camera, by all the videos that people post they seem decent for being stupid cheap (paid a little over $9). They record 720p and "1080p" likely upscaled 720, but still decent. The one I received? Only does 480p and no wide lense like the actual SQ11. So the SQ11 is a knockoff of the Polaroid Cube, mine's a knockoff of the SQ11. :) Seller gave me a 50% refund when I mentioned it, but it was good enough to get video, audio? Not... quite so much. In quiet areas, the mic seems to be rather fine, but the exhaust of my truck makes the audio quite horrible and raspy, but I did get a bit of the chatter. Not much though, it seems harder to get it to make a sound when the rear diff oil is cold? (it's currently 18F outside).

Anyway here's the videos, I took one on each side with the camera zip-tied to the leaf springs.
Passenger side, best examples are around the 1:20-1:30 and the very last ~3 seconds.

Driver's side Best examples are around :35-:45 and 1:00-1:10 It's a little better since it's further from the exhaust.

Keep in mind, it only does this when turning left, and under load (it doesn't make a discernible noise coasting in a left turn 15-20 unless you hit the gas). Braking doesn't seem to have an effect on the noise if you take a banking curve a bit fast and really load the bearing.
I went ahead and ordered a pair of SKF R1559 repair bearings from RockAuto, turned out to be my cheapest quality option (without going cheap/no name bearings).

So now my question to all of you: Any recommendations, hints, or other info you can give about changing the rear axle bearings? The process seems straight forward, but I would like some information.

Diff: 8.25" 3.55 Open
1: How much and what weight gear oil?
2: Torque for diff bolts?
3: Torque for center pin bolt?
4: Tools required to rent?

REMOVAL - Axle Shaft
(1) Place the transmission in NEUTRAL and raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake drum (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DRUM - REMOVAL) ..
(4) Clean all foreign material from housing cover area.
(5) Remove the housing cover and drain lubricant.
(6) Rotate differential case to access the pinion shaft lock screw. Remove lock screw and pinion shaft from differential case (Fig. 16).
(7) Push axle shaft inward then remove axle shaft C-lock (Fig. 17).
(8) Remove axle shaft being carefull not to damage shaft bearing and seal.
(9) Inspect axle shaft seal for leakage or damage.
(10) Inspect axle shaft bearing contact surface for signs of brinelling, galling and pitting.

REMOVAL - Axle Bearing
(3) Remove axle shaft seal from the end of the axle tube with a small pry bar (Fig. 19).
(4) Remove axle shaft bearing with Bearing Removal Tool Set 6310 and Adapter Foot 6310-9 (Fig. 20).


INSTALLATION - Axle Bearing
(1) Wipe the axle tube bore clean. Remove any old sealer or burrs from the tube.
(2) Install the axle shaft bearing with Installer C-4198 and Handle C-4171. Ensure bearing is installed straight and the tool is in contacts with the axle tube when seating the bearing. NOTE: Install bearing with part number against the installer.
(3) Install a new axle seal with Installer C-4076-B and Handle C-4735-1. When the tool contacts the axle tube, the seal is installed to the correct depth.
(4) Coat the lip of the seal with axle lubricant for protection prior to installing the axle shaft.


INSTALLATION - Axle Shaft
(1) Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear lubricant. Insert axle shaft through seal, bearing and engage it into side gear splines. NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from dam- aging axle shaft seal lip.
(2) Insert C-lock in end of axle shaft. Push axle shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.
(3) Insert pinion shaft into differential case and through thrust washers and differential pinions.
(4) Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential case and install lock screw with Loctite on the threads. Tighten lock screw to 11 N·m (8 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install cover and fill with gear lubricant.
(6) Install brake drum (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY- DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DRUM - INSTALLATION) .
(7) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(8) Remove support and lower vehicle.

While the RTV is setting up a bit before I refill, figured I'd drop an update. Removing the differential cover revealed, at least, my gears seem to be in really good shape, no obvious wear, just shiny at the contact points. I'm reminded of how horrible gear oil smells, and greeted with I would guess a fairly typical, good rear diff. No metal shavings or such in the oil.

Here's a gallery of some images of my gears, a small video of them turning, and the bearings I took out.

Apparently you have to destroy the seals to get them out... :) Anyway, whole process took roughly 2.5 hours. This includes rebuild time... While I was under the truck after removing the center pin, someone rotated one of the axles and dropped my spider gears out... :( Had to fight to remesh them properly, then temporarily slipped the center pin back in to prevent it from happening again while I was working on the bearings. Despite clubbing my hand with the hammer three times while driving in the bearings, it wasn't too horrible a job. Made sure to prelube the bearing, seals, etc. got both axles loaded, c-clips, center pin, put a little locktite on the pin bolt and moved onto cleaning up the diff cover.

Holy hell, shoulda took some pictures, but the previous person who put bearings in apparently cheated on their spouse with some orange RTV they loved it so much. All the bolt holes were filled (pulled blobs off the ends of every bolt) had a thick layer, AND 1/4"-3/8" bead of squish out INSIDE the differential, and about the same outside. Luckily, 99% came off with the cover, quick wire brush shined up the diff. The cover itself took some razering before I could brush it clean. Had to clean all the bolts as well, they were covered all the way around.

I'll update this post after refilling with the 75W-90 full synthetic I grabbed and testing.

EDIT: Quick run around the parking lot says.... Sound still exists. Sigh.

Rundown of already done: brakes, pads and shoes, front rotors, front wheel hubs/bearings, rear brake kit, rear axle bearings. Suspension seems fine, no obvious leak on shocks.

Where are you at? I would love to go for a ride, and hear what you are experiencing.

In the south east middle of nowhere. Checking your profile location, about an 8.5 hour drive 500ish miles. I'd love to get a second opinion/look at it. I'm surrounded by ford guys that are willing to pay $800 for a sparkplug change, so none of them are helpful. :(

You've done a tire rotation, yes? Just for manure and grins.

Near Atl?

Have u narrowed down whether it's in the front or rear?

Yeah, that would be a bit of a drive....... :D

Maps says ~230 miles 4 hours to Atlanta. The camera I got, being the knockoff of a knockoff it is :p doesn't record audio for crap (mic is too sensitive), so I still haven't determined front/rear. I keep thinking rear, as I feel it in the floorboard and not the steering wheel.

Just for grins

Shake the truck left to right and see if anything moves

Also, check the transmission mount

Does the sound change if you accelerate or brake during the turn?

Shook the truck, tried to lift the bed, etc to see if anything was loose, nothing seemed to move, click, or anything. It doesn't seem to be affected directly by the brakes, accelerating harder into the turn makes it more audible/feelable. Haven't been able to check the transmission mounts yet, another issue came up. Went out to grab a few things Friday night, buddy asked me to drive his car to charge the battery (it'd been sitting and the battery died, had to jump it off). No problem, get to the store, grab things, when leaving to merge into traffic, hit gas, car moves, loud bang, car doesn't move anymore. I thought the transmission had grenaded, but it had sheared the driver's side axle shaft in half

Here's you a few pictures of it.

Had to push it up the street until I got it parked in a pizza place's parking lot, all tow truck estimates were 2-3 hours out. Twas about 10:30-11:00PM, he drove out and picked me up, we'd figure it out later. Saturday, got it towed to our workplace, took all day to get it fixed, fighting the entire time. I'll see if I can crawl under the truck for a few looks underneath today or this week.

EDIT: The car was a 2004 Acura TL, apparently it's a common problem with the 2004-2008 year model range. The CV axle has a rubber bushing, or vibration dampener in the middle of the axle shaft. It apparently holds moisture under it and simply continues to rot out the axle until it snaps.

So where are we at now? Both front hubs replaced, both rear wheel bearings and seals replaced, front brakes replaced, rear brakes serviced. Spider gears checked, ring and pinion checked.

Have you done a tire rotation? Is the sound only when you steer a specific angle or further??

That's about where we're at, haven't done the rotation yet. It happens pretty much through the entire turn range, just as long as it's left. It seems based on load, how hard I'm going through the turn. I really wish I could get some warmer days without rain to see if I can get someone to record from the outside or something.

When is the last time you had an alignment done?

I'm specifically thinking in terms of camber. It's a far fetch, but if the shoulder of a tire is wore just right, when you steer, it can do some weird things. Especially shoulder cupping from a poorly controlled shock.

Harrumph I say. Lads, I do believe I found my culprit. Again, I can blame it on the previous owners. When I had got the truck, it was obvious to me the front end has had work, either ditched or fender bender. (bumper slightly off, and the overflow bottle had been cut from the bumper mount) Whoever straightened it out did a pretty decent job, impact was obviously on the driver side. assuming this is also why it's red and not factory black, new fender, paint job, (and the driver fender has holes for the magnum logo, passenger doesn't)

BUT ANYWAY this is just preface to what I just found, I've actually inspected the shocks before, at least, the driver front... It has a nice red Gabriel, matches the truck minus covered in road gunk.

Drivers side lower mount looks like this:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...4943e435bc.jpg

Apparently when they redid that side after whatever happened, they put a new shock in. Logically, you would say, why not replace them in pairs? It was not logic. The passenger one looks stock and my problem became obvious.

This is the passenger side:
Attachment 128112

Lower bushing has erupted, so when it's loaded, the lower is rattling around. Explains why I felt it through the floor and not in the steering.

Doesn't seem to horrible a job to replace, jack up truck, remove tire, two lower bolts and upper nut, slide out, replace? Does this process seem correct? It's a RWD.
Also, I can't go all out on cost, should I go with a pair of Gabriel or Monroe? (I'd love some Ranchos, heard a lot of good, but a bit out of price range for now... cause of replacing everything else.)

EDIT: Took another look to see where the upper nut is, that is going to suck to get to... But happened to notice I'm also missing the passenger side bump stop. Guess I should grab that as well. Also looking at Rock Auto, thinking about those KYBs, they any good?

EDIT2: Went with the KYB Excel-G, got both fronts shipped for $56. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive. Doing research a lot of people put the KYBs above Gabriel/Monroe, thought about the gas-a-just, but people say they're stiffer. I don't offroad or haul much, so a little softer oem style should do good.